Hi All. So I picked up this poor old 160 with hopes of breathing new life in to her. I'll share what I know, what I've done, and we'll see what we got.
I bought it non running, and the guy I bought it from said he never had the key, he would short the solenoid to get it running. He felt that over the course of messing with it in such a fashion that the solenoid or starter burned up. I have no reason to believe him, or disbelieve him - but I dont trust anyone at their word.
Picked up a brand new battery from menards, and I ordered a new key switch first. Gotta start there, as I'm not going to be jumping this thing every use. That's some duct tape and twine nonsense, and the switch is 13 dollars. That came in, I replaced it, and got nothing really. What I did happen to notice was the low fuel light came on. Ok, so maybe we have a sign of life? It's weird though, it's not instant. It's like if the tractor is in the RUN position, maybe a minute or two after, the low fuel light will glow.
Ok, so still no crank. Seeing as how the guy told me the starter was burned up, I whacked it with a hammer. What do I have to lose? Well, after doing so, I got the motor to crank just a fraction of a turn. OK, well that's something. Order for a new starter goes in.
I get the new starter in and hooked up yesterday and still nothing. Here's where I have a variety of details to add, so I will do so in list form.
-Lots of connectors were unhooked at some point
-Key switch was corroded/melted not sure if that just happens over time, but again I bought a new switch
-I just noticed today, that there was no 20A fuse in the holder - I put one in, but no change...the holder itself is pretty melted
-The 3 prong plug had been removed from the PTO switch
-The yellow wire coming out of the switch to the headlights had a glass fuse holder that had dissolved. I replaced it with a rubber one and a fuse - still no lights
I've got the plug pulled right now, and the motor spins freely, first thing I checked before I picked it up from the guy. I get that this thing is 30 years old, but it seems like a lot of the connectors have been heat compromised. I dont know....I'm not opposed to buying a brand new wiring harness, but I gotta see if I can get this thing going first.
Ok, so today I did some more troubleshooting on the starting system. The new starter is in, but not so much as a click. Again, I'll list what I've done troubleshooting/discovery-wise rather than put it in story form.
-12V from battery to the control spade on the solenoid gives me a positive THUNK
-12V from the battery to the small starter terminal gives a good spark and a WHRRRNNNN
-I swear that I tested voltage from the control spade of the solenoid at 12+V when the brake was in and the key turned - but I can't seem to replicate it again
-I can't seem to get a good 12V from the terminal post on the battery connection of the solenoid - its chrome plated, I wonder if that is interfering with the conductivity?
Anyhow, I've racked my brain enough on this today...and assistance or words of encouragement would be greatly appreciated.
I bought it non running, and the guy I bought it from said he never had the key, he would short the solenoid to get it running. He felt that over the course of messing with it in such a fashion that the solenoid or starter burned up. I have no reason to believe him, or disbelieve him - but I dont trust anyone at their word.
Picked up a brand new battery from menards, and I ordered a new key switch first. Gotta start there, as I'm not going to be jumping this thing every use. That's some duct tape and twine nonsense, and the switch is 13 dollars. That came in, I replaced it, and got nothing really. What I did happen to notice was the low fuel light came on. Ok, so maybe we have a sign of life? It's weird though, it's not instant. It's like if the tractor is in the RUN position, maybe a minute or two after, the low fuel light will glow.
Ok, so still no crank. Seeing as how the guy told me the starter was burned up, I whacked it with a hammer. What do I have to lose? Well, after doing so, I got the motor to crank just a fraction of a turn. OK, well that's something. Order for a new starter goes in.
I get the new starter in and hooked up yesterday and still nothing. Here's where I have a variety of details to add, so I will do so in list form.
-Lots of connectors were unhooked at some point
-Key switch was corroded/melted not sure if that just happens over time, but again I bought a new switch
-I just noticed today, that there was no 20A fuse in the holder - I put one in, but no change...the holder itself is pretty melted
-The 3 prong plug had been removed from the PTO switch
-The yellow wire coming out of the switch to the headlights had a glass fuse holder that had dissolved. I replaced it with a rubber one and a fuse - still no lights
I've got the plug pulled right now, and the motor spins freely, first thing I checked before I picked it up from the guy. I get that this thing is 30 years old, but it seems like a lot of the connectors have been heat compromised. I dont know....I'm not opposed to buying a brand new wiring harness, but I gotta see if I can get this thing going first.
Ok, so today I did some more troubleshooting on the starting system. The new starter is in, but not so much as a click. Again, I'll list what I've done troubleshooting/discovery-wise rather than put it in story form.
-12V from battery to the control spade on the solenoid gives me a positive THUNK
-12V from the battery to the small starter terminal gives a good spark and a WHRRRNNNN
-I swear that I tested voltage from the control spade of the solenoid at 12+V when the brake was in and the key turned - but I can't seem to replicate it again
-I can't seem to get a good 12V from the terminal post on the battery connection of the solenoid - its chrome plated, I wonder if that is interfering with the conductivity?
Anyhow, I've racked my brain enough on this today...and assistance or words of encouragement would be greatly appreciated.