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john deere 110 restore

9K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  mikeinri 
#1 ·
hey guys. im new here. ive always have had a fascination with older tractors. my first was a Jacobson chief. about 2 years ago i picked up this john deere 110. it has the mower deck and the snow thrower attachment. so last month i pulled it into the garage and started the break down. so far the breakdown has been pretty smooth. nothing is extremely rusted out. from what i can see its 90% complete. i just picked up a reprint of the service manual from ebay. so the plan for this is full breakdown and restore over the next year or so(depending on the mrs).i will post as many pics as possible. also any other reference material and parts sources would be greatly appreciated. heres the build so far. engine does turn does seem to have compression. trans is currently stuck in neutral but unsure of the innards. the serial number is in the 22,000 is i believe that would put this around 1965? anyway enjoy the pics and the build as we progress
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#2 ·
Welcome from Mass.. !! Love the RF. What are your plans, full restoration? Be sure to post lot of pictures.. we like pictures! LOL! Perhaps post your location, you might have neighbors with spare parts..

I'm in with popcorn!
 
#3 ·
Yep, welcome welcome! There's a fair number of us on here that have done/are doing/are stuck in the middle of a round fender restoration... So we're always willing to commiserate.

Looks like you're shy the PTO clutch, this guy...
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Depending on what you're planning on doing with the tractor, it may or may not be a problem to not have that clutch... Shouldn't be too hard to come by one.

Have fun with it, post questions if you've got'em!
 
#4 ·
Thank you. I reside in central New Jersey. Okay that’s a good find I knew that was for some kind of pto but wasn’t sure if it had a clutch.!ill have to keep my eyes peeled. My first question is how do the levers for the deck and speed come off their shafts? I’m guessing it has a key but is there a set screw or are they press fit?
 
#5 ·
The variator arm (the speed one) has a roll pin and a keyway. Here's some pix of me taking mine off of one of my parts 110s











The deck lift, there should be a big square headed bolt you loosen, then it has a keyway as well... It may be wedged on there pretty good, a puller really helps.
 
#6 ·
I'm just tuning now. Always glad to see a round fender come back to life. I am almost done my project so it will be nice to sit back and watch for a while. Hopefully I can help with some questions along the way. As you can see already, LGT is the man when it comes to RF's!
 
#7 ·
success. i set aside the roll pin and woodruff key.
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now i noticed that yours has holes for zerk fittings on the plates. mine does not. was that from a year change.

my next attack is removing the pulleys and springs under the frame. is there a better exploded view for reassembly. the service manual pics arent the greatest.
 
#9 · (Edited)
success. i set aside the roll pin and woodruff key.
View attachment 2371137

now i noticed that yours has holes for zerk fittings on the plates. mine does not. was that from a year change.
Must be, I haven't ever worked on anything older than a '66 (that was what my parts machine I was tearing apart there was).
my next attack is removing the pulleys and springs under the frame. is there a better exploded view for reassembly. the service manual pics arent the greatest.
Larry's got you some nice pics there. The best advice I could give you about getting everything undone from underneath would be to flip the bloody thing on its side... Especially when you're trying to get at the hardware that extends both above and below the operators station (Rockshaft connections to the lift lever and the variator arm connections to the variator pulley). That variator pulley is going to be a cast-iron you-know-what to get undone. I don't really remember what I did for getting all the springs undone, I do know that to get that massive variator spring done back up I used a winch strap run up through the hole where the gearshift comes out. That's how I replaced my variator spring on mine when it snapped (the spring is still available from Deere, or at least it was 4 years ago when mine packed). I'll try to find a link to that thread for you...

Ah, here's the link to the post where I did up the variator spring...
https://www.mytractorforum.com/4926809-post33.html
 
#8 ·
Having restored a 1966 110 I can tel you the best thing you can do is take lots of pictures before disassembly. I did and the PC I had them stored on crashed and i lost them so I had to rely on help from knowledgeable members on here. I have a few pics of the underside of mine as I was putting it back together. Hope it helps some. There are enough of us to help if you run into trouble
 

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#10 ·
These were my weapons of choice or what I had available to me when it came to cleaning the medium to small parts. Maybe not the best when comes to safety, but nobody can say I didn’t have any skin in the game! I used my little blaster for the areas I couldn’t get with the wire wheel. The frame, seat, wheels, pedestal and I think the grill I took to my neighbors to get sandblasted. Central jersey not to far from me by the way, I am just west of Philly.
 

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#12 ·
Yeah, I did a bunch of electrolysis on parts, worked pretty slickly for taking off paint and rust at the same time... The big thing was to get the parts cleaned and dried and prepped really quick after having them out of the tank, so you could prime them before they flash-rusted any more.

Haven't had much time for any of that lately, and my e-tanks get used for LTGal's cast iron pans more now....
 
#16 ·
:Welcome1:

I haven't devoted the time or patience for a restoration, but enjoy living vicariously through you guys!

Mike
 
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