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post #16 of 34 Old 03-22-2019, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

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Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post

Safety Heads Up. Before welding or applying any heat let the air out of the tire and leave the schrader valve out of the stem.

This is to prevent the air inside the tire from becoming a bomb.
Good point, thanks!
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post #17 of 34 Old 03-22-2019, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

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Originally Posted by JD-285 View Post
The axles diameter are different between the 5 speeds and the hydros.

Be careful and do not mushroom the end of axle or damage the snap ring grove.
So the ID of the wheel is wrong for the 180 and I'm wasting my time trying to swap wheels anyway. Thanks for the tip!

I typically put a piece of softer metal like bronze or aluminum between whatever I'm pressing or pushing and the presser/puller to avoid mushrooming the part.
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post #18 of 34 Old 03-22-2019, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

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Originally Posted by BoWoggie View Post
Just a matter of years of neglect. Rear wheels were rusted on to axle shafts.
I believe it but still don't know why only the hydro side rear wheel is stuck and the others just slid off. My 180 was under water (photos and details in another thread) and the wheels still came off pretty easily.

Guess we'll never know, thanks for the replies.
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post #19 of 34 Old 03-23-2019, 12:29 PM
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

It's just the luck of the draw,as to which rim rust will "weld" to the axle the worst..
Condensation can build up in those plastic "hub caps" they put over the snap ring to hold the rim on,or maybe one side got rained on or whatever..

Perhaps some grease or oil was applied to the side that didn't get seized on,or some leaked out of the axle seal to keep it from rusting ..

It would be nice if they greased things up at the factory during assembly..instead they leave bare steel axles exposed so they'll rust in record time...

I was lucky when I pulled the wheels off the John Deere L110 I got,they slid right off..
I put some grease on the axle shafts so hopefully if there is ever a next time they will slide right off then too..


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post #20 of 34 Old 03-23-2019, 08:34 PM
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

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Originally Posted by BoWoggie View Post
Just a matter of years of neglect. Rear wheels were rusted on to axle shafts. I also tried hammering from the backside of the wheel, but didn't want to cause internal damage.
And a Dogs FAVORITE wheel to mark quite often.
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post #21 of 34 Old 03-30-2019, 09:33 PM
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

I made a cup around axle with duct seal. Filled it with PB Blaster and let it soak in. Worked on two stuck wheels on my 300.
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post #22 of 34 Old 03-31-2019, 12:07 PM
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

You could put a split collar on the axle behind the wheel... This will give you something to push on. Don't pound on the wheel The snap ring can come off the axle inside the tranny.


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post #23 of 34 Old 04-04-2019, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

Thanks for the responses. Since the axle diameter is different between the 180 and 185, I put the wheel back on (and the front axle and everything else to make it roll) and stored it as a parts donor for the 180.
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post #24 of 34 Old 04-04-2019, 08:32 AM
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

This was an interesting thread and being that the only dumb question is the one not asked so out of curiosity: would it be a good precautionary measure for the owner of any new mower with this type set up to remove the wheels and apply either anti seize or grease to the shaft/hub to help head off future issues like this? Thanks.

Last edited by rudedawg; 04-04-2019 at 08:38 AM.
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post #25 of 34 Old 04-04-2019, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

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Originally Posted by rudedawg View Post
This was an interesting thread and being that the only dumb question is the one not asked so out of curiosity: would it be a good precautionary measure for the owner of any new mower with this type set up to remove the wheels and apply either anti seize or grease to the shaft/hub to help head off future issues like this? Thanks.
After going through this, I sure would apply something to those axles if you can. I've had the wheels off of my 180 a number of times and always applied a film of good bearing grease over the axle where the wheels mount and never had a problem. I'm still half convinced it's something to do with the 185 hydrostatic heating that axle up since the 180 (gear drive) was under water once up to the middle of the hood and the wheels still came off with no issues.
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post #26 of 34 Old 04-04-2019, 12:51 PM
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

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Originally Posted by 8888 View Post
Hopefully dumbest question only of the day and not of the week, month, or year.

I have a JD 185 Hydrostatic that is serving as a parts donor for my 180 gear drive for the time being. I'd like to put the rear wheels from the 185 on the 180. I've taken the rear wheels off of the 180 with no problems whatsoever but the "passenger" side rear wheel on the 185 will not come off regardless of what type or amount of persuasion I apply. PB Blaster, Deep Creep, dead blow hammer on opposite sides of the wheel knocking it back and forth, a set of big pry bars, nothing budges it at all.

185 "drivers" side rear wheel slid right off as nice as you please, which is what both 180 rear wheels always did. Is there something different about the transmission/passenger side rear wheel on a hydrostatic?

A few photos are included of the rear wheels, just for grins. As you can see, drivers side is off, passenger side is on.

Thanks
I have little faith in WD, however, if you soaked THOROUGHLY with PB, at let sit OVERNIGHT, you should be good to go. We can't always think of everything while doing a project........the only dumb question is the one not asked!

In the past:
Craftsman, MTD, Snapper, 1961 Ford 801 Powermaster, 1992 LB 4.5HP 580546, 2003 LB 10552 6.5HP Duraforce, IH Cub Cadet 105, 2001 Cub Cadet 2146 14HP Linamar 38" deck, love of my life (Sold 10 Dec 2011), 2007 Cub Cadet 2550 22HP Kohler Vtwin 50"deck (Sold 22 Aug 2018)
In use:
1994 JD LX178 sweet little mower, only 15HP, twin cyl, 38" deck, liquid cooled!
1998 JD 445 22HP Shaft driven wheels, shaft driven 60" deck, diff-lock, hydraulic lift, power steering, fuel & temp gauges, fuel injected, and liquid cooled! This machine has it all!
2005 Nortrak NT 254 25HP Diesel 5' FEL, here's a case of cost-cutting, I only need a tractor 3 or 4 times a year

Going to try to stay Liquid Cooled the rest of my life! Hey, it gets HOT here!
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post #27 of 34 Old 04-04-2019, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

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I have little faith in WD, however, if you soaked THOROUGHLY with PB, at let sit OVERNIGHT, you should be good to go. We can't always think of everything while doing a project........the only dumb question is the one not asked!
I agree on WD, it's good for cleaning oily stuff off but nothing rusted in place. I have tried Kroil, Silikroil, and all kinds of other stuff taking apart salt belt Ohio cars and PB seems to be the best, sometimes with a little Deep Creep. Acetone and ATF seems to be better at freeing stuck rings but for just getting stuff loose, PB seems to be the best.

I dosed this wheel with PB and everything else in the arsenal other than the acetone and ATF over the course of a week before giving up and posting the question before I broke something. I actually thought it was mechanically fixed in place somehow I wasn't aware of because I've broken car wheels loose that were rusted tight to hubs with less effort than this but I guess the length of axle inside the wheel is enough to really make a solid connection between the two.
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post #28 of 34 Old 04-04-2019, 07:54 PM
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

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Originally Posted by 8888 View Post

I dosed this wheel with PB and everything else in the arsenal other than the acetone and ATF over the course of a week before giving up
My thoughts go to the keyway jammed. Can you elevate that wheel to let gravity help you send the PB on down?

In the past:
Craftsman, MTD, Snapper, 1961 Ford 801 Powermaster, 1992 LB 4.5HP 580546, 2003 LB 10552 6.5HP Duraforce, IH Cub Cadet 105, 2001 Cub Cadet 2146 14HP Linamar 38" deck, love of my life (Sold 10 Dec 2011), 2007 Cub Cadet 2550 22HP Kohler Vtwin 50"deck (Sold 22 Aug 2018)
In use:
1994 JD LX178 sweet little mower, only 15HP, twin cyl, 38" deck, liquid cooled!
1998 JD 445 22HP Shaft driven wheels, shaft driven 60" deck, diff-lock, hydraulic lift, power steering, fuel & temp gauges, fuel injected, and liquid cooled! This machine has it all!
2005 Nortrak NT 254 25HP Diesel 5' FEL, here's a case of cost-cutting, I only need a tractor 3 or 4 times a year

Going to try to stay Liquid Cooled the rest of my life! Hey, it gets HOT here!
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post #29 of 34 Old 04-05-2019, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

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Originally Posted by mowergene View Post
My thoughts go to the keyway jammed. Can you elevate that wheel to let gravity help you send the PB on down?
Since the axle diameter is different between the 180 and 185 so I couldn't swap wheels, I decided to leave it alone. I agree the keyway being jammed somehow would be a reason it was so stuck.

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post #30 of 34 Old 04-05-2019, 12:14 PM
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Re: Dumbest question of the day - rear wheel removal on 185

If the wheel axel opening is too small, you could buy a single drill bit to make it the right size. If, too large, bushings should be available. Don't give up so easily. Where there is a will (somebody's gonna get some $).

In the past:
Craftsman, MTD, Snapper, 1961 Ford 801 Powermaster, 1992 LB 4.5HP 580546, 2003 LB 10552 6.5HP Duraforce, IH Cub Cadet 105, 2001 Cub Cadet 2146 14HP Linamar 38" deck, love of my life (Sold 10 Dec 2011), 2007 Cub Cadet 2550 22HP Kohler Vtwin 50"deck (Sold 22 Aug 2018)
In use:
1994 JD LX178 sweet little mower, only 15HP, twin cyl, 38" deck, liquid cooled!
1998 JD 445 22HP Shaft driven wheels, shaft driven 60" deck, diff-lock, hydraulic lift, power steering, fuel & temp gauges, fuel injected, and liquid cooled! This machine has it all!
2005 Nortrak NT 254 25HP Diesel 5' FEL, here's a case of cost-cutting, I only need a tractor 3 or 4 times a year

Going to try to stay Liquid Cooled the rest of my life! Hey, it gets HOT here!
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