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Lock-out valve on SCV

8K views 33 replies 9 participants last post by  cadman56 
#1 ·
I need some help/advice/recommendations for a lock-out valve on my X728. I have a ’08 X728 with a 62” mower deck and a 45 Loader. Since owning the tractor, I’m the second owner, I never gave it much thought about a lock-out valve so the other day I went to my in-laws farm where I keep my tractor and looked under it to see if there was a lock-out valve on the back of the SCV. There isn’t any, so I would like to install one. My understanding is this lock-out valve stops the flow of hydraulic fluid to the rear lift cylinder which controls lifting and lowering the mower deck, (note: I do not have a 3-pt. hitch). Is this correct? I’ve found 3 lock-out valves on the web. One OEM, and 2 from Auxiliary Hydraulics. Here is where I’d like some help because I’ve never worked with hydraulics before other than check the level and change the filters and refill. Which have you installed on your tractor? Which one would you recommend? Any other tips, tricks, suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all!!


Here is the OEM valve:
https://www.greenfarmparts.com/John...MI146yr-n_3wIVQtbACh3rSwlNEAQYASABEgJm7vD_BwE

Here are 2 valves from Auxiliary Hydraulics:
X-Series and 4X5 Series Quarter Turn Lockout Valve

Heavy Duty Lockout Valve For Loader Lift Applications 425 - 455 and X465 - X749
 
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#2 ·
I just bought & installed the 1/4 turn valve last week since my OE valve was leaking. Simple install & looks like good quality. I may eventually get a loader so I may regret getting the quarter turn but I’ll deal with it if that time comes.
 
#3 ·
when you change out elbow for valve you'll only loose a couple spoon full of fluid
 
#4 ·
I installed the OEM valve last night on my X700. It goes on the Yellow SCV(I hope:tango_face_surprise) and went on easily as I was changing the hydraulic fluid and system was drained down.

One word of caution, on my X729 I have experienced some wear on a hose that rubs against the valve handle. we will need to pull that away so that normal vibration doesn't cause a hose failure.
 
#5 ·
Since you already have the loader I would recommend the heavy duty Aux. Hydraulics one. That is the one I currently have. It replaced my OEM valve that leaked past pretty bad defeating the purpose. It greatly slowed the movement on the rockshaft cylinder but would lift my rear ballast it leaked so bad at the end.
 
#6 ·
Thanks everyone for the replies and info. Right now I'm thinking about getting the HD Aux Hydraulics valve to install on my tractor. This probably won't happen till late winter when the temps warm up a bit. I have a couple of projects around the house and shop that I'll need to use the FEL. :trink39:
 
#7 ·
BTW this is another good Investment from AUX Curl Lockout Valve for John Deere 45 Loader X475 X485 X495 X585 X595 X758 Haven't Installed Mine Yet. But if You get a 3point Hitch for Your Tractor It will allow You to use the 3point and Not worry about the Loader Moving.

I was Just curious Did You Buy the 45 Loader with the Tractor? or Did You Buy it separately?
 
#8 ·
Sergeant - Thanks for that tip on the curl lock-out valve. Don't have 3-pt hitch now but I might get one down the road. The 45 Loader was on the tractor when I bought it. I didn't know anything about the lock-out valve on the SCV until recently when I saw a post about one leaking. Did some investigating and found it was an option on the X728. That's when I looked at mine and found out I didn't have that lock-out valve. I'm not sure if Deere packaged the lock-out valve with the loader if you purchased tractor/loader at different times or not, but if they didn't they should have.
 
#9 ·
If it doesn't Have the Lock-out Valve I wonder if It Has the Hydrostatic relief Valve which is actually More Important. Than the Lock-out.

Because You will need these Parts Below if there not On the Tractor already to Protect Your transmission from Pressure Peaks associated with use of the Loader

BW15044 TRANSAXLE HYDROSTATIC RELIEF VALVE 4WD or AWD
M146148 free-wheeling valve control lever is also required

:thThumbsU
 
#12 ·
Cadman56

You should invest in a hydraulic pressure gauge when you own a loader. It’s worth the little money you will spend to buy it and the quick connect to plug it into your hydraulic ports to see what the line pressure is. Since you didn’t install the loader or the required HPRV you don’t have any idea what your line pressure is.

You can easily find online, in your owners manual, or by calling a dealer what the factory line pressure for your machine is. Most people that use a 45 loader end up increasing the line pressure to get better lift capacity and faster cycle times while using the loader. If your line pressure is still set to stock levels it is more likely than not the HPRV wasn’t changed out like it should have been. Or it is possible the previous owner changed it and left the pressure stock which you won’t know without pulling the fender and lifting the tank to look at the valve.
The replacement handle the valve is taller than the original and the replacement valve sticks up higher than the stock valve which is almost flat.
The picture I attached is the original valve with the bar going straight across.
 

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#13 ·
Thanks guys for the info. I've been crazy busy the past couple of days. Any way, I stopped at the farm today and started up the tractor and let it run for a while. Tried to look in at the free wheeling lever but really couldn't tell if it has the correct lever. So, I looked at the fuel gauge and I have a full tank of gas. I came home and cleared an area in my shop to put the tractor in when I bring it to my house. I'm hoping to get it here sometime Saturday. The only real way I'm going to know if it has the correct THRV in it is to pull the fender pan and the gas tank. The first thing I want to do is siphon out most of the gas in the tank, then remove the fender pan and gas tank. Once I know what I have, I'll make a plan to move forward. I know I want to install the lock-out valve and shim the IRV, if required, while I have it torn apart. A test gauge is on the "to buy" list. I know I'll have more questions once I get into this so stand by..........
 
#14 ·
Cadman,
I installed the Aux Hyd 1/4-turn valve years ago when I purchased my loader. No issues to date.

I also shimmed my hydro to 1,450 psi at that point. If you’d like a few of the correct .3mm and .5mm shims, let me know. I have plenty left.




Andreas
 
#16 ·
Cadman,
I installed the Aux Hyd 1/4-turn valve years ago when I purchased my loader. No issues to date.

I also shimmed my hydro to 1,450 psi at that point. If you’d like a few of the correct .3mm and .5mm shims, let me know. I have plenty left.

Andreas

Andreas - PM sent



Cadman

Nick4030 wrote up a tutorial for shimming the needle and changing the relief valve on a x748 Ultimate. Yours should be similar although not exactly since yours is gas and not diesel. I didn’t have to remove the gas tank to change mine.

https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-j...k-out-valve-scv-new-post.html#/topics/1154601

In my opinion I would not start taking your tractor apart until you have a pressure gauge and have checked the line pressure. It’s not worth spending the time just to find out the valve has already been changed out. I purchased a 2000 psi gauge from my local ranch store. I think it cost $30 last year. A 3000 psi gauge will also work and are more common to find. If you have an EVCO store or other hydraulic hose store in your area they will have a similar gauge. You will need the quick connect coupler. I purchased one from my JD dealer.

If you do end up taking the tractor apart to change the valve and shim the needle you can save time by not removing the tank entirely and just propping it up from the rear as I did in my previous picture. Just make sure it is secure so it doesn’t accidentally fall and break something.



JBible - thanks for the info. Just got on the board right now. Got the tractor in my barn and started to tear it apart before I saw your post. Can you post the link to Nick4030's write up for shimming the IRV. The link you posted is the link to this thread. I got the fender pan off late this afternoon and stopped there. There's a lot of crud between the fender pan and the gas tank. I saw your pic and that's what I'm going to do, prop the tank up rather than remove it.
 
#15 ·
Cadman

Nick4030 wrote up a tutorial for shimming the needle and changing the relief valve on a x748 Ultimate. Yours should be similar although not exactly since yours is gas and not diesel. I didn’t have to remove the gas tank to change mine.

https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-j...k-out-valve-scv-new-post.html#/topics/1154601

In my opinion I would not start taking your tractor apart until you have a pressure gauge and have checked the line pressure. It’s not worth spending the time just to find out the valve has already been changed out. I purchased a 2000 psi gauge from my local ranch store. I think it cost $30 last year. A 3000 psi gauge will also work and are more common to find. If you have an EVCO store or other hydraulic hose store in your area they will have a similar gauge. You will need the quick connect coupler. I purchased one from my JD dealer.

If you do end up taking the tractor apart to change the valve and shim the needle you can save time by not removing the tank entirely and just propping it up from the rear as I did in my previous picture. Just make sure it is secure so it doesn’t accidentally fall and break something.
 
#21 ·

No worries JBible and thanks for that link. Looks like a lot of excellent information in there. I worked on mine today because I wanted to see what THRV I had. After looking at the free wheeling lever, I knew which THRV I had. Looks like I need a new THRV. Which leads me to another question(s). In my loader manual it lists two different part numbers for a Four-Wheel Drive Machine: BW15044 (AM122228). Are these valves different? Is BW15044 superseded by AM122228? I looked them up on an online JD dealer and the prices were $161.54 for the BW15044 part and $274.96 for the AM122228 part. Over $100 difference! Why? Attached are some pics of my project so far. Before and after shots of the top of the gas tank and a shot of the THRV after I cleaned some of the crud away just to see the valves. Hopefully I'll be able to get back to cleaning things up Monday or Tuesday.
 

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#18 ·
Further to nick4030’s excellent write up, I would only add that the pressure readings should be checked with the engine at wide open throttle.

Leaving the fuel tank connected, but propped up, allows you to lower it, run the engine, check pressure, and then repeat until you’ve found the right combo of shins to reach your desired psi.



Andreas
 
#19 ·
Further to nick4030’s excellent write up, I would only add that the pressure readings should be checked with the engine at wide open throttle.

Leaving the fuel tank connected, but propped up, allows you to lower it, run the engine, check pressure, and then repeat until you’ve found the right combo of shins to reach your desired psi.
Andreas
This is absolutely correct. You will get a difference of 150 psi between idle and full throttle.
 
#22 ·
Sorry I can’t answer as to why there two different prices for what the manual says is the same part. Only a JD dealer parts guy can answer that question. It appears you have the correct part number as I looked it up in the 45 loader manual. There are only two valves, one is for the 2 wheel drive and the other is for the 4 wheel drive tractors. I don’t know if there is another source for the valve as I haven’t researched it but you may be able to get the valve from TuffTorque since they manufacture the differential for your tractor.

You’re going to need the correct arm to go over the new valve. This is likely only available from John Deere.
 

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#24 · (Edited)
You’re going to need the correct arm to go over the new valve. This is likely only available from John Deere.
It’s called a “Free Wheeling Control Lever”, I got mine from GreenFarmParts, “John Deere Rod M146148”. $14.29
 
#25 ·
Ordered a THRV, (BW15044) and new free-wheeling lever, (M146148) from local JD dealer. They said they could still get the BW15044 so we'll see when it comes in. Should be here in a couple of days. Won't matter much right now cause it's too darn cold to be working in a non-heated barn.
 
#28 ·
I ordered shims from GreenFarmParts along with the Free Wheeling Lever. Installed the FWL on the X700 last weekend. Removed the seat pan on the X729 to install the shims, went to the get them and one was missing from my order. I am only able to get 1200 psi currently and now have to wait for GreenFarmParts to send me another.:Disgus:
 
#30 ·
I can’t respond...it’s quite a stack. I was shimmed at 1450 psi and moved some of those to the 700 wanting to reduce the 729 and increase the 700. I went too far and now I’m trying to recover. I’ll count when I open it back up sometime this week.
 
#34 ·
Wow, February was a crazy month. I really didn't get to do much on the tractor till just recently, so I thought I would update this thread. I got the new THRV installed along with the new free-wheeling lever. I then shimmed the IRV. I started out with 975psi. I used two 0.5mm shims and one 0.3mm shims to get the pressure up to 1325 psi. I'm satisfied with that. Today I installed the lock-out valve on the SCV. Tomorrow I'm going to check the hydraulic fluid level and then if it is nice out I'm going to give her a bath. Here are some pics. Thanks again to everyone for your help. :thThumbsU
 

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