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post #16 of 58 Old 06-10-2019, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by MARK (LI) View Post

Now you have to keep your eyes out on junk night for when you see bed frames and other useful items that can be repurposed in steel fabrication
Good luck with the machine
No kidding. I drove past a piece of steel on the side of the road awhile back when the wife was with me. Made a metal mental note of its location and picked it up when she wasn't with me a few days later. 🙂

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post #17 of 58 Old 06-10-2019, 10:39 AM
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

I've used bed frame angle iron to make some things,but it is not always a good choice for an item that needs structural strength...its "pig iron" and is often hard skinned and brittle,and drilling holes in it is tough to impossible sometimes--a drill press an sharp bits sometimes work ok for a few holes,but it dulls the bits badly quickly..

I've used my arc welder or torch to blow holes for bolts thru it instead,or heated it up to cherry red and let it cool ,then try drilling it..

Some bed frames steel is hard and brittle to prevent flexing and it'll snap if put under an extreme load or shock..so it's not much good for a load bearing item,or one subjected to strong shock loads or impacts..

Finding good mild steel angles or tubing for free or cheap is getting more difficult--scrappers scoff up everything listed online right after sunrise here ---usually,dumps discourage "picking" at the metal piles,and scrap yards are now "off limits" to non-employees,they only let scrappers in to dump off their loads and wont even let them do any picking now..

Sometimes you'll see an old exercise machine listed for free online,those have a good amount of square tubing,treadmill machines do too..one place I used to get some decent metal for various projects was a place that sells snowmobiles,and another that sells new lawn tractors,often those pallets are either all steel,or steel reinforced wooden ones..

Pipe is sometimes easier to come by,if you see a newly sold older home being renovated,you can score all the old steel pipe if you ask the plumber,usually they only want the brass & lead to scrap for themselves..pipe is strong and makes good frames for various things like outbuildings and other backyard projects..

Sheet metal is easier to come by,every dump has tons of old appliances,filing cabinets,heating ducts,etc..just be aware galvanized can get you very sick if you fail to grind it all off where your welding,use a fan or weld outside to avoid inhaling the white smoke it'll make..


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post #18 of 58 Old 06-12-2019, 02:05 PM
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

Sorry to hear about cutting your thumb. I havn't read the article so I don't know what you were using for the abrasive. I thought I would suggest getting some flap discs for a hand held grinder, they are great tools.
As mentioned old sayings say your either a good welder or a good grinder, I have SEVERAL hand held grinders. I have learned the small 4 inch grinders don't last too long and now my favorite is my 9 inch Kawasaki. I also have the 7 inch.
Did I mention about being a good grinder?
The 7 inch grinder from Harbor Freight is another of my favorites, their red ones last the longest. I also have the 9inch.

I'm a pretty good grinder now.



Treat your self to some NEW STEEL ! You will find it's not to hard on the pocket book after all. About a buck a pound, 25 lbs of steel is a lot of material.

Find a local steel supply, even a scrap steel yard and pick up some 1 inch flat bar, some angle or box tubing and 1/8" plate build your self a cart for the welder. It's the first project a new welder should do and you will learn about heat settings etc.






Mmmmmm, new metal. . . . .







One more tip, you can use a piece of heavy metal, aluminum or copper as a backing on thin metal to aid in drawing some of the heat away. It helps you to keep from blowing holes in the thin stuff. Dissimilar metals won't stick.

A gas bottle will be a next good investment, I don't care much for flux core and the spatter. Two bottles and you can add a spool gun and weld aluminum


Then you may as well get a TIG.





Most of all Have Fun!
Enjoy it, otherwise, what's the point.


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post #19 of 58 Old 06-12-2019, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

Got to find a good steel scrap location. Most of the local welding/machine shops save their scraps and then sell everything to the local recycling metal place. I do need to buy a new washer and dryer so I'll have to see what I can scrounge from them when they go. Should be some sheet available from the outsides. I have a few pieces that are heavy that I can probably practice on. I also need to practice the different types of joins, fillet, butt, and vertical just to see how I can do, but that will be after some flat practice.

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post #20 of 58 Old 06-12-2019, 03:23 PM
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

[QUOTE=





One more tip, you can use a piece of heavy metal, aluminum or copper as a backing on thin metal to aid in drawing some of the heat away. It helps you to keep from blowing holes in the thin stuff. Dissimilar metals won't stick.

.[/QUOTE]
This sounds like a great tip...any way you could elaborate on this or show some pictures of how you would do it?...It always seems that I have to weld thick steel and thin steel...invariably blowing holes in the thin material ( stick welding) ..Thank you
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post #21 of 58 Old 06-12-2019, 04:49 PM
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

I think you would of been better off with a Hobart welder from Tractor Supply. They always have sales. A 110v welder is very limited. It will not weld the thicker metal as shown above. You need a 220v welder. If you are going to weld thick steel you are better off getting a stick welder. Stick does not work well for thin steel that is where MIG is good. This is relative to the size of the stick and MIG welder. Money buys more options.


The best way to learn welding is going to a class at your local community college.

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post #22 of 58 Old 06-12-2019, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

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I think you would of been better off with a Hobart welder from Tractor Supply. They always have sales. A 110v welder is very limited. It will not weld the thicker metal as shown above. You need a 220v welder. If you are going to weld thick steel you are better off getting a stick welder. Stick does not work well for thin steel that is where MIG is good. This is relative to the size of the stick and MIG welder. Money buys more options.


The best way to learn welding is going to a class at your local community college.

Well, I don't have much welding to do, so this was my "entry" machine. Should I need to do structural steel I'll either buy another machine and sell this one or just take that work to a local welding shop. I don't see me getting to that level for a while anyways. I plan on taking a course when I retire and have nothing better to do. You're correct money buys more options but there's a new washer and dryer about to hit so this'll have to do for a while.

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post #23 of 58 Old 06-12-2019, 10:14 PM
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if it hasn't already been said everybody's welds look crappy at first it's part of learning.
I've did a fair amount of welding about 25 years ago but I haven't welded much since

it took a lot of practice and I got paid to do it. but you do get rusty if you don't do it regularly. don't worry about what your welds look like at first.

I've learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel. Maya Angelou

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post #24 of 58 Old 06-12-2019, 10:50 PM
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donewrken View Post

A gas bottle will be a next good investment, I don't care much for flux core and the spatter. Two bottles and you can add a spool gun and weld aluminum


Then you may as well get a TIG.





Most of all Have Fun!
Enjoy it, otherwise, what's the point.


Donewrken



.

I bought a Miller 211 auto, go the 2 bottles and a spool gun for aluminum. LOVE THAT THING!

Yeah I took TIG classes (back in 08 trying to find a job) but I can do anything I need to with the 211. best money I ever spent. 110V or 220V and I have an old Linkhon tombstone AC welder for the REALLY heavy stuff.

PAGuy. For starting out you made a good choice. If you are not doing body work you will be fine with what you bought. Heck I used an old Campbell Hausefiel flux-core to do body work for 6 years before I got my Miller. You will be fine with a grinding wheel and a flap-wheel for a 4 1/2" grinder for what you are doing.

Good luck to you and remember the thinner it is the more you need to space the welds and let it cool. Spot welds back and forth until it's fill in.

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Old 06-12-2019, 11:29 PM
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post #25 of 58 Old 06-13-2019, 12:44 PM
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

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Originally Posted by MARK (LI) View Post
I am kind of surprised that no one mentioned the most common mistake we have all made ...especially in the beginning..
DO NOT GRAB THE PIECE YOU JUST WELDED

Now you have to keep your eyes out on junk night for when you see bed frames and other useful items that can be repurposed in steel fabrication
Good luck with the machine
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The above applies to metal pieces you've cut off with a torch too..

They can remain very HOT for several minutes after they stop glowing orange!.

One day at the repair shop a friend worked at,I came in and heard his boss chewing him out for leaving a muffler clamp he had cut off just before I showed up on the floor--he went in to talk to him and stepped on it with sneakers,and it melted into the sole and burnt his sock & foot!..

Needless to say he was very angry...angry enough to say "I'm going HOME for awhile,change my socks and shoes!--I'll be back later this afternoon"..

My friend had a hard time not laughing,he thought it was pretty funny,and said "he should know better than to come out in the shop wearing sneakers--last week I had a brake drum sitting on the tire machine,and he came in wanting to take a tire off a rim--it slid off and landed right on his toes--the same foot too!"..

About 2 months later I was at the shop again ,they let me use their tire machine to swap some better tires on rims,and my friend was working on a Ford pickup..

He had to cut off a large hex nut that holds the radius arm bushings on,and it was bright orange when it hit the floor...about 30 seconds later it went back to looking black...

Just then his boss comes in and says "hey,I just got a call,a customer is coming in and wants his--HEY--how many times do I have to tell you NOT to leave (censored) lying on the FLOOR where it can puncture a tire,or injure someone!..and before either of us could say anything,he stoops over and GRABS the nut,and goes "YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH !--and he whips it across the room!...we heard a crash like glass breaking..

He stares at his hand for a minute,runs into the bathroom and pours cold water from the sink on his hand..he comes out with his face red as a beet,and didn't say a word,he just went out in the office,got in his Corvette,and laid about 200 feet of rubber as he sped off..

My friend said he didn't come to work for 2 days after that!..(he had keys to the shop so he could open up if the boss didn't feel like coming in )...he said he almost got fired,he reamed him out good for leaving the hot hex nut lying on the floor...

Then he showed me where the nut went when he flung it across the room--it hit the almost new alignment machine's TV screen monitor and smashed it!..it was almost $400 to replace it!..

Friend said "he said he was gonna make ME pay for it by taking it out of my paycheck--but I told him I didn't throw it--YOU did!..told him I'd quit if he made me pay for it!...

The boss returned 3 days later and didn't say a word to him for the whole day..his hand was still wrapped up with gauze..it was a good week before they were back on talking terms again..they agreed the boss stays in the office,and my friend does the shop work!..


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post #26 of 58 Old 06-13-2019, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

Took the day off...to work on the chipper! Folks I know the welds aren't great, but got the feeder back on and everything seems pretty sturdy. I'm sure with the vibration this thing does that it won't take too long before I'm getting in more practice. Anyways here's are the pics:
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post #27 of 58 Old 06-13-2019, 09:10 PM
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

Congrats on the new machine, and new capabilities! That's awesome.

I'm the furthest from an expert, I've just tried to learn by practicing with my 110V Lincoln MIG (with CO2). But some of those (the first and last pics) do look a bit... globby Hopefully others can weigh in, but maybe for some it didn't get the area hot enough to melt it properly?

Good suggestions here.

My auto-darkening helmet is the Harbor Freight blue flames one. Inexpensive, for sure, but they seem to have a decent reputation. I was curious, I tried making something to trigger the helmet-darkening a split-second before I strike an arc. I used a small halogen light (like for under a cabinet) wired to a foot-pedal. I can get lined up, step on the pedal (the halogen light triggers the helmet to darken), then squeeze the trigger. I don't really bother most of the time, but when I was practicing a bunch, it was an interesting test to see if I could avoid even the brief bright moment.

I've made the mistake of picking up a piece that was still hot, but fortunately it had cooled enough that it just really surprised me. It was a good reminder, though. Keep the leather welding gloves on! Or if you need to grab it without gloves, hold your hand near it for a sec first to feel if it's still hot.

Thanks for the suggestions about how to weld thin material. I need to repair a rusted-through area of my tractor deck, so that concern will apply. I'll have to try and do small, short welds. I've used a backing plate to avoid blowing through. For flat material, I used a piece of aluminum plate, clamped behind the steel. But on a curved mower deck, I may have more trouble getting another material clamped behind the weld area.

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post #28 of 58 Old 06-14-2019, 06:17 AM
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Look like it should hold. Everyone's welds look bad starting out.

That is old, thin metal too; hard stuff to weld.

When you have a large gap to fill like that, it isn't cheating to lay a piece of small square Stock in the crevice and weld her in. gives you more metal to work with to close the gap.

I've learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel. Maya Angelou

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post #29 of 58 Old 06-14-2019, 09:05 AM
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

The metal is sticking together?...you accomplished your goal...it will look better as you get some experience and develop technique ...and as Robert
( Tractorholic) said "A grinder and paint....make me the welder I ain't"
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post #30 of 58 Old 06-14-2019, 05:11 PM
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Re: Well it finally happened!!!

Not bad for your first try.

I would suggest cleaning things up a bit better before welding with a wire wheel on a drill or grinder, and a little more heat with short bursts in little circles or a "U" shape back over what you just welded as you go. (start on the spot you just welded, move forward on the top, underlap where you just were and "U" around over the last weld to the bottom and stop) OR (just make little circles that overlap the weld before)
It looks like 3/32" stuff so blowing through should be an issue unlike car sheet metal.

Once again good job for your first try!

Been driving Deeres since 1974, Dodges since 1984, and Davidsons since 2004. Love my wife and kids I'm a blessed man.

1970 140 H1
1977 300 H2
1983 314 H1 for sale
110 parts tractor for sale
198? 332 50" deck
300 series #33 tiller
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