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Bar and Chain Oil Question????

5K views 40 replies 17 participants last post by  c5rulz 
#1 ·
Nope, not going to ask who makes it. But if you use oil from a jug, and the jug is marked as "Bar And Chain Oil", is there any difference? All I want is some sticky oil that stays on the bar when the saw is revved up. And cleans the guides. I know you can spend $20 or so for a name-brand like Stihl or Husky, or buy a bottle of private label jazz that will do the job and save the money for a 6-pack of good beer. Thank you.
 
#2 ·
Question asked and answered. If it is tacky, it is good to go. Some like Winter weight when it get real cold. If the saw has been running, it it will pour it warms up fast in a metal chassis saw.
 
#4 ·
+1 on Stihl; it's really tacky and won't sling off as easily as others plus imho I think it extends both chain & bar life. Take this with a grain of salt but I was a Stihl dealer/servicer for decades back in the day and nothing in the no-name brands could hold a candle to it. Just saying, good luck.
 
#27 ·
+1 on Stihl; it's really tacky and won't sling off as easily as others
Agreed, but that's exactly why I don't use it anymore. It doesn't pump well in my saws. I just a cheapo brand that my local neighborhood store sells, and it flows well. My chains are well oiled. Much bettah.

If I had Stihls, I'd probably try it again. I'm sure it's formulated for Stihl pumps.
 
#6 ·
Bar and chain oil is about $8/gallon IIRC. I haven't bought any in years, as I just use filtered drain oil, or more recently drained hydraulic oil. I've saved more than enough by not buying bar and chain oil to replace my bar at least twice, probably more like three times. I've never replaced my bar due to wear, but I did upgrade to a 20" from a 16" so I wouldn't have to bend over as far. My chains wear out from filing long before they wear out due to improper oiling.
 
#7 ·
Any good tacky oil will work.

Majority of bar wear I've seen is from not sharpening chain when due and excessive force applied to Powerhead to make saw cut.
Tell tail sign is paint burned clear off adjacent chain kerf extending into bar depending on severity.

I typically buy Stihl orange jug. Also have some echo that was good deal at HD.

MU
 
#9 ·
A landowner who was real fussy about the poor quality of bar oil found Service Pro bar and chain oil I split an order of 6 cases, (6 gallons case) of Summer weight. The company delivered it and it came to $7/gallon. Very tacky oil

Another one I like a lot is Essence. It might even be better and that also was in the $7-8 dollar range.

Years ago the Poulon green jug was good too.

Service Pro:

SERVICE PRO® BAR AND CHAIN OIL
Manufactured with virgin base oils
Association of Independent Oil Distributors • www.service-pro.com • P.O. Box 1861 • Montrose, CO 81402 USA
Updated: 09/15
SPWNBCOIL
DESCRIPTION: SERVICE PRO® Bar and Chain Oil is a premium lubricant designed especially for the lubrication of bar
and chains on chain saws, and all types of link chains that require lubrication, including motorcycles and
bicycles, as well as farm and industrial uses.
SERVICE PRO® Bar and Chain Oil is formulated with highly refined base stocks and an additive package
to assure excellent performance as a chain saw bar and chain lubricant. A special tackifier is added to the
oil, which promotes good adhesion to moving parts and minimizes oil throw off. These oils are designed to
prevent rusting and reduce wear and link breakage thus extending bar and chain life. Penetration into
rivet holes and the bat channel is assured. Down-time and cutting interruptions are minimized.
• Extends bar, chain and sprocket life
• Reduced throw off
• Reduces heat build-up
• Excellent rust and corrosion protection
• Different viscosity weights for various ambient temperatures
Winter Summer
20W 40W
Gravity, API 30.8 28.9
Density, 0.8708 0.8808
Viscosity
@40 Deg. C, cSt 51.29 118.56
@100 Deg. C, cSt 8.21 13.47
Viscosity Index 132 109
Pour Point Deg. F -36 3
 
#10 ·
I don't have a brand allegience to any bar and chain oil. I have used Stihl, Dolmar, and Efco when I find them on sale. But usually, I buy the Tractor Supply house brand on sale. I don't see appreciable difference in use, nor performance. Other conditions make a bigger difference (type of wood, temperatures, sharpness of chain, size of the round, size of the bar, size of the saw). A good tacky oil and the proper adjustment on the oiler is more important than the color of the jug in my opinion.
 
#11 ·
I just bought a saw from a guy who is a serious chainsaw enthusiast, and according to him, as long as it's tacky its fine. Tractor Supply house brand is just fine.

However very different story for 2 cycle gas mix. He told me he only runs ethanol free 90 octane or higher, mixed at 40:1 with Echo RedArmor oil.
 
#13 ·
I bought the 288XP for a project saw used. It had used motor oil in it and the thing was a disgusting mess and horrible to clean up before the rebuild and porting.
 
#14 ·
Yeah used motor oil is no good. Clean motor oil will work in a pinch but I wouldn't make a habit of it. Nothing wrong with regular store brand bar oil though. I was at TSC today and forgot to grab a gallon. I forgot to get grit for my chickens too so I have to go back up there anyways.
 
#15 ·
It's odd this thread showed up in my email. I been wondering the same thing. I have a older Stihl 028AV Wood Boss and I been using the stuff from Walmart. So far, it seems to be working fine. I have a Tractor Supply not far off and may try it if it ever goes on sale. <me does a search on websites> Seems Walmart is like $10 a gallon. Tractor Supply is just over $8. On sale or not, better deal. Hmmmmm.

I might add, the jug I'm currently using I put a little Moly in. I had some left over and figured it couldn't hurt. They say the moly is like microscopic ball bearings and a chain running over a bar needs something to "roll" on, right??

I've also been wondering about the gas mix too. Stihl is a bit pricey and hard to get around here. I'm currently using a Sta-Mix brand but have some Briggs Stratton on hand as well. I like the bottles with the little measuring thing on top. Sometimes I only mix a half gallon. It's easier with that little measuring thing on top than opening a can made for one gallon but with no top plus no way to really know where half is either.
 
#16 ·
2 stroke oil:
I’ve been using the Homelite stuff I believe it is, from Home Depot. It’s full synthetic and comes in about 16 oz size. It has a little measuring hopper at the top of the can. With the can upright, just remove the cap and squeeze the bottle. Oil moves up the bottom fed integral straw in the container, and into the hopper at the top of the bottle. There’s lines on there for different ratios, like 1.6 oz or 1.4 oz whatever... super easy to use. I’ve been using it for several years in my Stihl and Husqvarna 2 cycle stuff, and haven’t had any issues with it yet. Much cheaper than Stihl oil, and I believe just as good. I’ve not been shown any research or had any negative experience to contradict or confirm that.

That said, I use the manufacturer’s recommended oil brand in all my stuff until the warranty runs out so if I do have a warranty issue it’ll be covered.
 
#17 ·
I have a Lowes but no local Home Depot. There's one about 70 miles away but I do go to that town every few years or so. I may look into that when I'm up that way but it's been about two years or longer.

The bottle you describe is what I'm talking about. Mine is set for 40:1 and 50:1 but is marked for half gallon too. I think mine is 3.2oz for a gallon and 1.6oz for half gallon. I try not to mix up to much at a time. I do add a little Marvel Mystery oil which is a good stabilizer. Still, I try to mix what I'll need without having to much left over.

My Stihl is about 30 or 40 years old. I think it was made back in the 80's, maybe 70's. Warranty is not a issue here. LOL I also have a 031 that I want to put back together sometime soon too.
 
#19 ·
It would be nice to find a review where they ran scientific tests to see which oil is best. Tackiness is good but film strength and viscosity are important too. If the oil is both tacky and has a high film strength like I believe Amsoil's Semi-Synthetic Bar and Chain Oil is, there is less friction, and therefore more power for cutting wood and the bar will run cooler.
 
#34 ·
I've been using the Amsoil Bar and Chain oil and their Amsoil Sabre 100:1 synthetic 2-cycle oil in my Stihl 028 (mixed at 100:1) ever since I inherited it from my dad in 1995 and in an 021 I've had for years. Both still have the original bars. I have observed it does seem to take a lot longer for the chain to heat up and get loose than with the cheaper bar oils I've had to use when I was out of the Amsoil. They both cost more, but in the long run I'm convinced they can save you money, barring nails etc. (or barring deer if you have their liubricants in a car and it's totaled...)
 
#22 ·
Couple of opinions:

Bar oil: I've used several house brands with no complaints. Doesn't matter what brand you have as I'd suggest most burnt up chains and bars are due to the bar oil that wasn't put in the saw.

2Cycle Oil: I run my Stihl back pack several times per week, almost every week including over the winter. I've tried house brands, national brands, but the one that doesn't leave a black oily residue on my equipment is the Stihl brand which I now use exclusively in all my 2 cycle stuff. Costs a lot, but I think worth it.
 
#23 ·
BAR and CHAIN OIL IS DIFFERENT. Put one drop on one finger and ten touch another finger to the drop and when you spread those fingers apart, you will see the properties of a "Sling" oil or "Chain" oil. There should be tiny strings of oil between your two fingers. As the Chain running at high speed goes around sprockets and nose bar, the oil resists being slung off, sticking to the chain. Conversely, not good on a bike chain because it is so sticky, any dirt clings on as well causing more wear plus most bike chain has a design to hold oil of a nature made for it, more of a fluid film base with penetration.
 
#24 ·
Love my Husqvarna Rancher

This is a huge Black Cherry that slowly fell earlier in the summer. I couldn't get anyone to take the beautiful log in it, so I had to resort to firewood. It's a real shame....
 

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#28 ·
Also worth mentioning, if you use your chainsaw a lot, make sure your are greasing the bar sprocket. They sell a special grease gun with a pointed tip for greasing them up. They can also be used to grease up your clutch drum bearing on some saws.

It looks like this-

Tool accessory Auto part Gun barrel


You can buy them at Home Depot, eBay, Amazon, or your chainsaw shop. They are only about $5-10. Keep one in your chainsaw case.
 
#30 ·
Also worth mentioning, if you use your chainsaw a lot, make sure your are greasing the bar sprocket. They sell a special grease gun with a pointed tip for greasing them up. They can also be used to grease up your clutch drum bearing on some saws.

It looks like this-

View attachment 2402447

You can buy them at Home Depot, eBay, Amazon, or your chainsaw shop. They are only about $5-10. Keep one in your chainsaw case.

Greasing tips is debatable and the jury is out. The consensus is either grease religiously or never at all. I am in the latter camp. Bar oil works down to the roller tip and works just fine.
 
#38 ·
Some have grease holes and some don't. Here's my Echo CS310 with a 14" bar. It has them.

View attachment IMG_20191023_193323818_1571874968816.jpg


Here an older 16" German made Stihl bar for my 028. It has them too.

View attachment IMG_20191023_193522484_1571875021056.jpg

Here is a brand new 18" US made Stihl bar. It doesn't have them.

View attachment IMG_20191023_193434752_1571875054369.jpg

I grease them if the holes are there. Again you can also use that grease gun to grease the clutch drum bearing on some saws. They will have a hole at the end of the crank for grease. My Echo has this, but my Stihl doesn't.
 
#39 ·
I went to Tractor Supply and I think the grease thingy I got is broken. I can only get grease out of the tip if I push the little plastic plunger thing on the other end where you put grease in. It's like a check valve isn't working and keeping the grease flowing one way. I finally got grease in there by pushing on the plunger with a 3/8 socket extension. It's flat and rounded off.

I want to order a grease gun but I may have what I need, most of it anyway, already. I have a large grease gun that I use to grease the tractor with, those zerk things for the pins on the front bucket. I also have a couple mini grease guns that I think would work for this with the correct tip. Thing is, I don't know what the grease is called. Does anyone know what the grease is called so I can google it, find it on ebay or something? It's green and for a grease, sort of runny. It's not thick at all. I figure the grease I already have would be to thick. Also, it seems that you can only use cartridges in those mini guns. By mini guns I mean those grease guns that look like the bigger ones only smaller. Maybe I am missing something on how to manually load grease into one of those or it requires something else to allow manual filling??

This is the adapter I found. It has a rubber tip which I think would seal better than the metal ones. Even on youtube, I noticed it squirts out some even by people who have greased their bar sprocket for years. What do you think?

Thanks.

 
#41 ·
Slightly unrelated but not totally. I just started running a hard nose bar with the .404 semi chisel chain. Since I cam cutting extremely dirty cable skidded log cut offs I bore cut almost everything, cut through to the bottom and then finish by cutting up throwing the dirt away from the power head. This technique also greatly minimizes the kerf closing and pinching the bar. One wouldn't think it would make much difference but the hard nose bar has way less tendency to want to kick back when plunge cutting with the bar. It plunge cuts like a dream. Doing this much plunge cutting with a roller tip is a good way to blow one especially in real cold weather.

Yesterday I cleaned the trailer after cutting the load into rounds and the sawdust amounted to 1/2 cubic yard of sawdust.:tango_face_surprise
 
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