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Old 12-27-2008, 09:37 PM   post #1 of 6
Ernie in KY
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Default GT275 fuel problems

Hi everyone. I just bought this non-running GT275 and am working on getting it going.



Today I charged the battery and gave a closer look to the fuel system. The filter is pretty nasty, I will replace it. I noticed it had no fuel in it. I cranked the engine and it pulled fuel up just into the bottom of the filter - see here, just to the bottom of the element. This picture is with the engine cranking, when I stop cranking it runs back down the line.



The fuel was pulsing into the filter so I'm thinking the pump may be OK. I noticed the top hose clamp was loose, and the bottom line was split. You can see it in the picture above. There's no leak, but I'm hoping it's pulling air and losing a prime. I'm planning on a new filter, then taping a new line onto the old line at the filter and pulling it through to the tank, replacing the whole thing. Any thoughts? Hopefully this will fix it, and I can get to work on the PTO problem.

Thanks!
Ernie
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Old 12-27-2008, 10:40 PM   post #2 of 6
gt275
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Default Re: GT275 fuel problems

Sorry, I can't help with the problem, but it seems as though the previous owner didn't take very good care of that tractor. If you get that thing running and cleaned up, you will have a nice machine.
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2005 GX345 (purchased 11/09 w/124hrs) 20hp V-twin liquid cooled Kawasaki, 54" deck, Differential lock, Femco Cab Weather Enclosure, 42" snowblower, Electric Spout Rotation Kit.
2001 345 (purchased 7/12 w/1063hrs) 20hp V-twin liquid cooled Kawasaki, 54" deck, , 48" Snowblade, Front Bumper Guard.

Deere 10P poly Cart
Agri-Fab #125 Spreader

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1998 GT275 17hp Kawasaki, 48" deck, Cab Enclosure, 38" Snowthrower, Manual Spout Kit
1997 LX188 17hp V-twin liquid cooled Kawasaki, 48" deck
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Old 12-28-2008, 12:58 PM   post #3 of 6
S DIAMOND
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Default Re: GT275 fuel problems

Quote:
I'm planning on a new filter, then taping a new line onto the old line at the filter and pulling it through to the tank, replacing the whole thing. Any thoughts?
Iím pretty sure you can remove the rear fender without removing the pedestal (steering column). You should have approximately four to six bolts securing the rear fender. This would be best to replace the line. Also, I believe on the 275 the fuel tank lifts right up, but donít remember for sure. If it does, you will have good access to the top of the transmission, and will be able to clean the cooling fins and fan (auto) if need be.

There should be one or two bolts under each foot rest, and two under the seat. The black knob that controls the height adjustment is pressed on. You can remove it with gentle persuasion. After that, the rear fender should come off, by lifting and pulling up to the rear. This will expose the fuel line(s). Inspect the fuel gourmets for cracking as well as the lines.

Have you checked to see if the engine will run at all? Fuel directly injected into the cylinder, or spray?

Iím 98% sure you will have to remove and clean your carburetor. Liberal use of carb and choke clean as well as compressed air should do the trick, but depending on how long and how much varnish you find, you may have to do a minor dipping (no more than 30 minutes).

Order a carburetor gasket kit (not overhaul) as well as all of the mounting gaskets (to cylinder, and air filter) for the carburetor and remove all of the internal parts to clean. Be careful as the brass jets are easily damaged. Use the proper Cabinet screw driver, if you donít have the right carburetor tool.

Go to Deereís website and print out a picture of your carburetor to help you during the rebuild. Also, this will let you know what can be removed.

Good luck...
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Old 12-28-2008, 03:41 PM   post #4 of 6
Ernie in KY
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Default Re: GT275 fuel problems

It's certainly well used but I think the lack of a hood makes it a look worse than it is. The PO ran it without the hood, and I doubt I'll shell out $400 or so to replace it. I do have it, it's just junk.

I bought it from a friend who had it maybe a year. He had to put a belt on the deck, then the PTO quit so his wife "made" him buy a new zero turn.

He said it ran great, but when the pto quit he parked it for the rest of the summer. A month or so ago he tried to start it and it wouldn't start, then the battery ran down and he decided to get rid of it.

I didn't know if I could pull the new line through and access the tank fitting or not, so thanks! I did look on the JD site and it looks like there's a cutoff valve under the platform somewhere too. I just need to roll around under this thing for a while and get my game plan together. That is a good idea to pull the fender and clean everything down there. I'm sure the fins are dirty and I know that's hard on it.

Anyways, thanks for the advice, I will take pics when I tear in to it and post back.
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Old 12-28-2008, 05:31 PM   post #5 of 6
gt275
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Default Re: GT275 fuel problems

S DIAMOND,

You are correct, the fender comes off by removing the seat bracket and then I believe 4 bolts and then the deck height adjustment knob, which, as you said, pulls straight out. The fuel tank lifts right out of the frame to access anything under that.

Ernie,
This is what an 11 year old, well taken care of gt275 looks like.

__________________

2005 GX345 (purchased 11/09 w/124hrs) 20hp V-twin liquid cooled Kawasaki, 54" deck, Differential lock, Femco Cab Weather Enclosure, 42" snowblower, Electric Spout Rotation Kit.
2001 345 (purchased 7/12 w/1063hrs) 20hp V-twin liquid cooled Kawasaki, 54" deck, , 48" Snowblade, Front Bumper Guard.

Deere 10P poly Cart
Agri-Fab #125 Spreader

-SOLD-
1998 GT275 17hp Kawasaki, 48" deck, Cab Enclosure, 38" Snowthrower, Manual Spout Kit
1997 LX188 17hp V-twin liquid cooled Kawasaki, 48" deck

Last edited by gt275; 12-28-2008 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 12-30-2008, 05:11 PM   post #6 of 6
Ernie in KY
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Default Re: GT275 fuel problems

Well I had a few minutes today so I pulled the deck. Took about 10 minutes. I just slid the seat forward instead of removing it. Good call on the grommet, it is wore out and the pickup was very loose in the tank. I bet that's where a bunch of the gunk in the filter came from. I'll have to make another trip to the dealer next week. There is a bunch of grass and dirt on the transaxle so I'll clean it up and blow everything out before putting it back together.

I'm really pleased with this thing so far. It looked pretty tough without the fender, if I had the skills I'd put round fenders on it and an early style hood But I don't so I think I'll try to cobble the factory hood back together.
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