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Old 05-12-2007, 09:50 PM   post #1 of 14
Craftsmanlover24
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Question Oil Question

hey guys,
question i bought a new YS4500 see link below. I was wondering aboutand oil change. i did not receive the manual yet so i am unsure about doing and oil change i mean i know how to do one but i heard people say all different things about oil like synthenic and regular oil. and when to change it like how many hours and what kind. i heard so many different stories i dont know what to do please help. P.S. it is a 24 HP briggs and stratton V-Twin has 15.5to 16 hrs. thank you



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Old 05-12-2007, 10:00 PM   post #2 of 14
JMC
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Default Re: Oil Question

The best thing to do is follow the manual.

I have a JD X300 with the Kawasaki 17 HP V-twin. JD has no problem with using synthetic oil. The manual said to wait until it had 50 hours on it with regular oil before going to synthetic. So that's what I did. (There was a required oil change a 8 hours for initial break in, so I changed the oil once before switching to synthetic at 50 hours).

I use Castrol Syntec 10W30, which is the correct weight for my engine.
I use it in all my engines, car, etc. The engines run just fantastic on that stuff.

You can go to the Briggs and Stratton website for advice for your engine.
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:10 PM   post #3 of 14
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Default Re: Oil Question

thank u very much. i will go to their site
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:19 PM   post #4 of 14
Dan Lovell
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Default Re: Oil Question

I would change the oil now and put 30# in. until you get the manual.

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Old 05-12-2007, 10:55 PM   post #5 of 14
Edward
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Default Re: Oil Question

Wondering why manufacturers dont put synthetic oil into their products to start with, if thats what is best for them..?

I would try to go 'by the book'
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Old 05-12-2007, 11:10 PM   post #6 of 14
Mickey
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Default Re: Oil Question

Have owned GT's since 72 and have never used anything cept dino oil. Still have the original one and engine is running well and one other had 2k hrs on the engine when replaced.

IMO unless you live in very harsh environment, no reason why plain old dino oil isn't up to the task. For change intervals, follow engine mfgr's recommendation.
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Old 05-12-2007, 11:49 PM   post #7 of 14
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Default Re: Oil Question

well in the summer in PA its gunna get hot. i mow grass and haul a garden cart but i will be using this tractor non-stop pretty much. i also heard synthetic runs cooler is that true too. thank you everybody
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Old 05-13-2007, 07:42 AM   post #8 of 14
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Default Re: Oil Question

From what I understand the reason synthetic is not use from the factory is because it is to good. The conventional will help clear anything left in the motor from milling, assembally, ect. where the synthetic is so slick it actully prevents the debris from passing thus gettig stuck in your cyliders and stuff and maring up the walls and other things. Don't know if it's true but that's what I heard. That's why you should run conventional for the recommended break in period prior to switching. After that you should be fine, I was and I know lots of others who where also.
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Old 05-13-2007, 03:13 PM   post #9 of 14
JMC
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Default Re: Oil Question

Synthetic has greater strength, cleaning ability, lubricity, heat resistance, lower pour point, and on and on and on...

It's also double the price at least, and that's why the factory fill is dino.

Notice how they don't fill it to the full mark, just in-between "add" and "full"? Every drop costs money!!

In all honesty, on a low end machine it's probably a waste of money to use synthetic oil. Most of those tractors fall apart in every other mechanical aspect - steering, deck, spindles, etc - stuff far less lubricated and cleaned than a well maintained engine on conventional oil. So if you are not mechanically inclined, and paying a repairman, the economic life is over far before the engine is done.

However, if you use the machine in very cold weather for snow removal, synthetic does a great job of saving the engine and starter on start up.

I use synthetic in my JD X300. That's just my choice.
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:01 PM   post #10 of 14
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Talking Re: Oil Question

tomorrow, Monday the 14 im doing an oil change i will drain the oil then take the oil filter off and drain that then put it back on. And then i will refill with fresh HD 30 untill i get the manual just like Dan lovell said. and untill i see how many hours i need before synthetic oil change. but thank you all for your help. BTW i bought Quaker State HD 30
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:50 PM   post #11 of 14
JMC
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Default Re: Oil Question

If you're not changing the filter, why take it off? It could leak afterwards or spill contamination back in the engine.

I'd change it, for the $5 it costs, cheap insurance!

--Just thinking out loud

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Old 05-14-2007, 06:59 PM   post #12 of 14
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Yikes Re: Oil Question

well acutually forgot to take the filter off i drain the oil. had everything ready to put fresh oil in, i started pouring the fresh oil in. i looked down and seen the filter was still on . so i said "forget it" i put fresh oil in and filled it up right to the full mark. but it was all good afterward . i mowed some grass and checked it it was full. so when i get the manual and see when to put synthenic in. I then will change the filter and put Mobil 1 full synthenic oil in.
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:21 PM   post #13 of 14
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Default Re: Oil Question

I'd wait until 25 hours or so. Break it in well with regular dinosaur oil and then if you want, switch to synthetic. A full synthetic does an engine good. But on an older engine, sometimes you need to up the weight a little so its not too thin and burning up as its passes the rings.

I went to synthetic at 50 hours, I now have 163. I began using it when VW sent a letter that sludge occurs in their turbo engines from the heat. Well, first thing I noticed was the difference in cold start up. Used to get a lot of cam noise on the dino that would last for up to 15 seconds or so. Still get it on cold start up, but only for approximately 2 to 3 seconds. Pumps really good at cold temps.
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Old 05-18-2007, 12:52 PM   post #14 of 14
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Default Re: Oil Question

I agree that 50 hours is a good time to switch to Synthetic if that's your plan. On my Yamaha the mechanic said that after 75 to 100 miles it's as broken in as it's going to get. I'd assume that these small engines are about the same. So 50 gives it a good chance to seat everything real well. Briggs says to use synthetic with their blessings, but don't alter the scheduled change cycles.
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