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317 Repower without a kit: Onan to Vanguard

51K views 75 replies 27 participants last post by  rabbitking61 
#1 ·
While most folks here seem to own the newer tractors, I know there are still some guys that have the older machines out there. I'm posting this here as much for the "technical documentation" aspect as anything - Have to keep me honest!

A friend of mine recently relocated, and gave me his Cub Cadet 2165, it is only a 16hp, but it's in really nice shape with only 400 hrs. I figured it was a huge technological jump from my Onan P218, so why not give it a go?

First thing's first: Out with the old!


I also separated the driveshaft from the shaft adapter on the Onan. I haven't decided if I want to use the 317 shaft on the Vanguard, as I have larger joints and shafting available (same as used on 318, etc).


I pulled the Vanguard out of the Cub, and started to reconfigure it for my Deere. After removing he Cub driveshaft adapter and screen, I installed the new stub shaft adapter (841580):





Next, I started working on the PTO adapter plate. I did most of the drilling with a hand drill, as I've never moved the old drill press from my parents' house out to our place... Talk about positional tolerance.... It's made of 1/2" aluminum that I had a scrap of laying around.



I need to pick up a few bolts tonight on my way home from work, and try to get this bolted up/fitted so that I can make sure I have the engine placement right in the frame.

Just as a teaser, I had to test fit it, sure looks great in there!


More to follow!
 
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#6 ·
Keep up the good work! Documentation is always great.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the interest guys, I'll be sure to update with more info later this week. For now though, I've hit a snag waiting on the muffler and ended up ordering bolts for the PTO adapter since the local hardware store didn't have the 5/16-24 flat head screws I needed.

By the way, that's not canine, it's mud from playing in the garden last weekend when it was almost 60deg! Today was 30deg with 6" of snow... Crazy March weather!
 
#9 ·
I am very interested in how you plan to modify the drive shaft to fit the stub shaft that you have on the Vanguard. SEW and Jim's includes an adapter for their 318 kits that allows you to use drive shaft without modifications. However, I think the stub shaft is the way to go when you are not using a kit.
 
#11 ·
It should be pretty simple for a 318 since they use more readily available u-joints. This Neapco yoke will replace the current flange yoke on the 318 and accept a 1" shaft (on the engine).


Here's the 317 shaft with the adapter removed:


Cool buildup!:greendr:
Hello neighbor. :howdy:
Thanks neighbor! :thThumbsU
 
#10 ·
Cool buildup!:greendr:
Hello neighbor. :howdy:
 
#14 ·
I feel a bit silly with my latest discovery, but it's an important one so here goes...


The Engine actually has the correct mounting pattern for the Ogura PTO clutch, so the adapter that I made is completely unnecessary. What I do need to do is install spacers behind the winding/mounting plate in order to allow proper spacing between the field coil and the rotor. I'll be working on that tonight....

Glad I figured it out before I got much further though...
 
#16 ·
Nothing wrong with it other than a bit of surging that I didn't want to have to tinker with to figure out. That, and I'm rather tired of the "Onan cologne".


I received some parts to keep me moving along....
Shiny new muffler from SEW!


Assembled the PTO clutch.


Bolted up shiny new muffler..



Worked a while today, but it almost looks like I'm moving backwards...
 
#18 ·
Between the engine and the other upgrades I'm working on, it practically will be a completely different tractor!

:thanku:
 
#20 ·
Surprisingly, yes! I was expecting regular low-carbon steel with a black coating, but this is a nice touch. It'll give it that "hot rod" look!
 
#21 ·
I had ordered the steering valve mount in order to save myself some time. It showed up yesterday, but I didn't get to cut the ears off. I will basically only be using the flat plate portion with a relief for easier installation/removal. I did have a chance to mock it up in the frame last night.



I also had time to start "designing" the additional bracing required to mount the valve plate. I too subscribe to the garage-CAD process (Cardboard Aided Design).
 
#23 ·
Steering column/valve mounted in the frame. Just waiting on an order from SurplusCenter for some of the remaining plumbing supplies...



 
#24 ·
I made considerable headway last night on the plumbing of the hydraulics for both the steering valve and the H3 valve, but have a question around the necessity for a fluid cooler. Does anyone have the fluid temperature data that suggests the addition of a steering system requires one?

I know when I added hydraulic steering to my old trail rig truck that I added one for good measure, but there was considerably more power being produced by the pump and steering cylinder.
Either way, I might provide provisions to add one later in the interest of time at this point.


Next steps are to finish the engine mounting adapters and get the engine installed. Then of course I'll have to tackle the wiring. If my other projects cooperate, I might be able to finish it this weekend!
 
#26 ·
Thanks!

I just picked one up off the auction site. Hopefully it's here by the weekend or early next week.
 
#27 ·
Now things look like they are going the right direction, I made considerable headway today.

I finished the H3 plumbing, new linkages, and reinstalled the dash tower and steering wheel. Next item of business is the driveshaft. It appears to be a bit too short, so I'm going to cut the ends off and weld them to a longer piece of 1" shafting that I have leftover from another project. After that, the engine can be installed, and wired. After that, a long-overdue garage cleaning. These pictures show how much of a disaster it has erupted into, wowsers!



 
#29 ·
Another good day today, I figured out my driveshaft conundrum. I ended up cutting the tube out of the "stock" driveshaft and replaced it with a section of solid 1" shafting that is 1-1/2" longer. I think the driveshaft should be longer even with the Onan, so this was probably not engine-specific...



I also finished the mounting adapter plates for the engine. Despite the wind advisory this afternoon, I also got some paint splashed on them.



As soon as they're dry, I'll bolt them up to the engine and reinstall the driveshaft prior to dropping the engine back into the chassis, hopefully for the last time!
 
#31 ·
Looks good John.
how did you center the joins on the shaft so it is in balance?
I mounted the shaft in my vise, and used a level across the joint to make sure they were in the same orientation. Rudimentary, but I've had very good luck doing this in my past life as a 4x4 truck hobbyist.


Dan33Klein said:
I past through Chili yesterday going to peoria to see my sister at bradley.

I was thinking about your repower. Lol
You should have PM'd me, could have stopped by and shot the breeze for a bit!
 
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