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Old 07-28-2012, 05:10 PM   post #16 of 32
BillCT
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

Looks like there a drift pin in the yoke by the U joint, maybe I have to drive that out?

How about the other drive shaft to the rearend too. I see some sort of pin in that too up thru the observation hole. Man that"s hard to get to.
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Old 07-28-2012, 05:16 PM   post #17 of 32
BillCT
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

This is looking up thru the observation hole at the rear. The shaft to the front diff is at the top.


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Old 07-28-2012, 05:43 PM   post #18 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

Maybe I should be unbolting that housing to the left shown in post #15 and the snap ring is in there??
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:02 PM   post #19 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

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Originally Posted by BillCT View Post
Looks like there a drift pin in the yoke by the U joint, maybe I have to drive that out?

How about the other drive shaft to the rearend too. I see some sort of pin in that too up thru the observation hole. Man that"s hard to get to.
You have to remove that pin (in the red circle) to separate the yoke from the drive shaft, after you will be able to pull out the drive shaft from the front diff I think.
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Last edited by stladrill; 07-28-2012 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:09 PM   post #20 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

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Maybe I should be unbolting that housing to the left shown in post #15 and the snap ring is in there??
It's look like you have a u joint there too, here's the diagram I was talking about.
Part# 80 to 89
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:47 PM   post #21 of 32
BillCT
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

Yes, you're right, I figured it out, the front U joint is inside that cover. Removed the cover and there it is, I was misinterpreting the drawings you sent. No snap ring in this tractor though, there a roll pin thru the Yoke and thru the shaft. I drove out the pin and out came the U joint and yoke.

Mr Newbie here!!

Thanks for replying to my emails, I'm ready to split the tractor in the morning.
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:39 PM   post #22 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

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Yes, you're right, I figured it out, the front U joint is inside that cover. Removed the cover and there it is, I was misinterpreting the drawings you sent. No snap ring in this tractor though, there a roll pin thru the Yoke and thru the shaft. I drove out the pin and out came the U joint and yoke.

Mr Newbie here!!

Thanks for replying to my emails, I'm ready to split the tractor in the morning.
Cool! keep us inform of your progress.
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:18 PM   post #23 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

thanks i just dowloaded these, i just bought this b7100 4dw hst fel last year, had no books.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:02 AM   post #24 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

Tractor is finally separated, PP fingers look pretty worn but the disk isn't too bad really. Current delema, how is the throwout bearing removed? The manual is pretty vague, just says remove it. I don't see any "C" clips or anything, looks like a backer plate behind it. Tried to grab it with large water pump plyers but it doesn't seem to budge. Picture below.

I suppose the next question will be on removing the pilot bushing, or even if I should change it.



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Old 08-04-2012, 02:32 PM   post #25 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

Can you take a closer pictures of the bearing?
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:18 PM   post #26 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

It must be pressed on the clutch shaft or something, there's nothing holding it. I pressed the clutch so it sticks out more.

I got the pilot bushing out.....man.......not easy!


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Old 08-04-2012, 05:10 PM   post #27 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

I figured it out. You have to reach up in the observation hole behind the bellhousing, remove the spring. Then remove the zerk fitting, remove the clutch shaft, then turn the collar the bearing is pressed onto so the clutch fork falls in your face and the assembly slides out. Man what a design.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:43 PM   post #28 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

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I figured it out. You have to reach up in the observation hole behind the bellhousing, remove the spring. Then remove the zerk fitting, remove the clutch shaft, then turn the collar the bearing is pressed onto so the clutch fork falls in your face and the assembly slides out. Man what a design.
Yeah I hear you, how are the bearing, still running smooth or rough?
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:18 PM   post #29 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

Bearing feels OK, still stiff with grease but I'm gonna change it anyway. The fingers on the PP are really worn so this thing has seen some abuse.

Do you happen to know how to line up the flywheel properly? All the holes are the same distance apart so it'll go on in any position, no dowl pin or anything for alignment. Timing marks are on the outside edge so it has to go on right. I screwed up not marking it somehow.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:11 PM   post #30 of 32
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Default Re: B7100 Clutch Replacement

Many engine have timing mark on the harmonic balancer also call damper crank pulley situated in front of the engine where the belt are, if you align the crank pulley on his mark you'll have the mark you need to align the flywheel correctly.

Let me know if it work, if not one other possibility is available.
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