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Old 07-12-2010, 08:51 AM   post #1 of 10
kenbob
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Default Slipping Clutch

I installed a new soft start clutch drive wheel and new yoke, but it is still slipping going up hills, and freewheeling coming down hills. The clutch return spring is set to the most aggressive setting, and I know the drive wheel is turning while it slips. Should I try to build up the liner of the drive wheel with some thin gasket material? Any suggestions? The hills are fairly steep, but i have never had a problem with other mowers climbing them. Is the soft start just wimpy?
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Old 07-12-2010, 12:41 PM   post #2 of 10
tinsley207
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

KenBob,

I was thinking of installing the Soft Start Clutch myself on my Series 3 RER, so I'm very interested in the outcome here. Sorry I don't have any advice. But while we're at it could you share a bit more about your install, the model number of your RER, any tips you may have?

Here are my details:

Model: 331139 or (33113S)
Serial: 23097865

I inherited this mower from my Grandfather who used in for years to mow his lawn until he had a stroke and couldn't ride it anymore. It was re-powered in 1996 with a 12.5 horse Briggs. No matter how gradually I raise the clutch I ALWAYS get that wheelie popping, neck snapping start. I have replaced my friction ring already and that didn't seem to have any effect. Could the clutch be out of adjustment?

Also could someone chime in on exactly how this Soft Start Clutch works? I've looked at the parts list and it appears to me that the friction ring is sandwiched between a plate and the driven cup and hub. So what's part number 1-4523 for? Says it's a thrust washer? Is that made of friction like material? It would seem to me that the "smoothness" is achieved by the friction ring being allowed to turn and slip a little bit on the driven cup and hub but where exactly is the slipping/smoothing taking place.

Finally if I want to make this switch successfully from my original clutch to this style of clutch do I only need the driven cup/hub, friction ring, thrust washer and plate? Or do I need a new brake lever assembly as well?

Many Thanks.

Nate
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:28 PM   post #3 of 10
dc 3mech
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch


for both of you,this is the soft clutch kit 7060601 for earlier than series6. Do you need all these parts?I don't know having never done this with an early model,maybe someone who has will join in.The "thrush washer"is made of what seems heavy paper,and there is a "liner between the hub and driven disc which isn't shown,some discs don't come with them.

Last edited by dc 3mech; 07-12-2010 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:58 PM   post #4 of 10
tinsley207
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

DC 3Mech,

Thanks. I have this drawing and worked off it composing my post. I appreciate the comment about the hidden material on the friction disc. This makes more sense now since the last time I did my friction disk it came with this liner and I actually had to remove it to make it fit on my older style hub. After careful inspection of the parts list on my snapper it's apparent that the hub in the smooth start kit is totally different from the my hub. In fact it appears this new hub is what makes contact with the liner inside the friction disc. I presume that's where the contact and smoothing is happening? In that case I will definitely need parts 2-8. What I'm still unsure of is whether or not I'll need a new brake lever since the new hub is a different shape and the brake lever fits inside the hub. Hasn't anyone here ever retrofitted a pre series 6 RER with soft start clutch before?

Kenbob, I think what's happening is that there's either oil dripping into the hub and friction disc causeing slippage there even though the friction disc is making full contact with the driven disc or the plate, part 6, is not tight enough against the friction disc.
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:17 PM   post #5 of 10
dc 3mech
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

Notice number 21,it's the "smooth clutch tool"used to hold the rubber disc while installing or removing,and also to measure the drive disc for correct distance,the slot on the end goes on the rim of the hole and the tapered portion is the range allowed.
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Old 07-14-2010, 06:12 PM   post #6 of 10
kenbob
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

Just how tight is part# 6 supposed to be? It is pretty snug.
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:56 PM   post #7 of 10
kenbob
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

I am pretty sure that the problem is not slippage because of oil. I seem to have an inordinate amount of play in my pedals. using all the spacers, deck belt is adjusted properly (1 inch between pulleys) but it is slipping as bad as before I changed the worn out yoke. Maybe the liner is bad? Looks OK. did not have the problem until I changed the drive wheel with brand new one from dealer. Will put old one back on. Any other suggestions?
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:20 PM   post #8 of 10
dc 3mech
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

I'm bringing this thread back to the top because it has the parts book illus. and problems prevent me re-posting.Did you note post #4 from Tinsley 207,about using the new type rubber wheel on an early hub?,He says that the late wheel will work on the early hub,if you remove the liner,it appears using the late wheel(with the liner),the wheel would not go all the way on the early hub and cause the slack on the clutch cable and might cause your problems.Also the "smooth clutch tool"# 7032392,is still available for around $6,got mine from "lawnmowerpros.com
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Old 07-31-2010, 02:52 PM   post #9 of 10
kenbob
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

Thanks for the info DC3, I will definitly check out that interesting bit of info.
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Old 07-31-2010, 06:47 PM   post #10 of 10
Kbeitz
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Default Re: Slipping Clutch

I just bolted mine together... It's not soft start anymore...
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