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Old 05-18-2010, 01:19 AM   post #16 of 39
Fcubman
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

When I changed the oil in my TufTork, purging it at idle didn't work. I ran it at full throttle while purging, and that worked. YMMV.
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:50 AM   post #17 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

Is a passenger car automotive oil spec'd for this application? or a UTF/AW hydraulic oil should be used??

Hyd oil's will have anti foam additives
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Old 05-18-2010, 12:38 PM   post #18 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

Quote:
Originally Posted by daman1 View Post
Is a passenger car automotive oil spec'd for this application?
Yes. Hydro-Gear SB-51409 lists oil volume and type for most of their products.

310-3000
Seal Kit 70492
Sealant Part Number 50928
Oil Volume 122 fl. oz. / 3.8125 qt. (3608 ml)
Oil Type 20w-50
Filter 70538

The service manual says:

"Typically, an engine oil with a minimum rating of 55 SUS at 212F (100 C) and an API classification of SL is recommended. A 20W-50 engine oil has been selected for use by the factory and is recommended for normal operating temperatures."

(Just including that for reference, not to give an overly wordy reply to you, daman1.)
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:46 PM   post #19 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdoff View Post
Yes. Hydro-Gear SB-51409 lists oil volume and type for most of their products.

310-3000
Seal Kit 70492
Sealant Part Number 50928
Oil Volume 122 fl. oz. / 3.8125 qt. (3608 ml)
Oil Type 20w-50
Filter 70538

The service manual says:

"Typically, an engine oil with a minimum rating of 55 SUS at 212F (100 C) and an API classification of SL is recommended. A 20W-50 engine oil has been selected for use by the factory and is recommended for normal operating temperatures."

(Just including that for reference, not to give an overly wordy reply to you, daman1.)
Ahh ok no problem thanks,i like them type replys do it my self all the time..
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:06 PM   post #20 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

Maybe try calling hydro gear ? I have heard they are very helpful. They might have a tip that would help. Pretty sure they have 800 number.
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:13 PM   post #21 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

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Maybe try calling hydro gear ? I have heard they are very helpful. They might have a tip that would help. Pretty sure they have 800 number.
That's a good idea. I did email once to get the part number for the service/repair manual (BLN-51259), and they responded quickly. I'm going to try to get it going one last time tonight, and if that doesn't get me anywhere, I'll try contacting them. I figure, in the very worst case, I'll order the service/repair manual and settle in for some light reading.
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:28 PM   post #22 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

North American
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Service and Support
Phone: 1-877-728-7410
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Old 05-18-2010, 08:42 PM   post #23 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

After supper, I went out for one more try. I made sure the tractor was level and checked the fluid. Slow drip at the level-check hole, so all good. I'm pretty confident now there's the right amount of oil in it.

I also checked the motion control linkage, and it works exactly as before, moving the arm on the side of the transaxle. The clutch/brake linkage is not sticking, and the brake disc rotates with the rear wheels. The freewheel linkage moves the valve arm back and forth as it should. The valve arm felt the same as when I had the transaxle out, free for most of its range, and a slight click when fully open.

This time, I raised the rear wheels off the ground for the purge procedure, as this is what the Hydro-Gear service manual calls for (at least for a similar Hydro-Gear model I happened to find a manual for). First, forward and reverse with the bypass (freewheel) valve open, then forward and reverse with the bypass valve closed. Nothing.

I took a look underneath with the engine running (bypass open, wheels in the air), and saw that the drive belt was not slipping, was still routed correctly, and the cooling fan and pulley were spinning as usual.

I turned off the engine and stared at the thing for a while. I wondered if I'd forgotten something when I put everything back together, but I just can't think of anything. I took the vent hose fitting out, but that's all back together. I took the gerotor (charge pump) housing off, but that's back on, shaft lined up properly with the flat on the inner gear. Could I have put the pump housing on 180 degrees around? I don't think so, at least from what I can tell. Nothing I've found mentions it having a correct or incorrect orientation. Ugh.

Looks like I'll be calling Hydro-Gear tomorrow.
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:49 PM   post #24 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

i remember reading this in project big red. turn your cover 180 degrees.

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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It not only runs but it moves now. YES!! I put the charge pump cover on 180 degrees off. Removed the 2 screws, rotated, and bingo, Here We Go! Seems to be working perfectly now. Hopefully in the next few days/weeks I can get the mower deck rebuilt/repainted.
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:10 PM   post #25 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

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Originally Posted by tjw in kans View Post
i remember reading this in project big red. turn your cover 180 degrees.
No way. You guys are awesome. Right after my previous post, I looked at the photos I took beforehand, and noted the position of the little rectangular mark on the housing.


Then I got tied up with some work stuff. I just saw your message and went outside to take a look. I put the housing back on with the rectangular mark toward the front of the tractor, 180 degrees from the way it was on before.

I really want to go out and try turning it around right now, but I don't think the neighbors would appreciate me hooning around in the yard at midnight on the tractor should it actually work.

With any luck, it seems like I should be able to remove the bolts spin it around, carefully and quickly, and not lose much oil. I really hope this is it...
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:56 AM   post #26 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

ummmm... from the looks of it.... the position of that rectangle mark on the oval plate..... it seems to be in the same location well.... at least from comparing the photo above vs the photo in the original post, assuming that the photo in the original post was when before you took the piece off to start of the project.

I hope you get this going again... because at this point, I was interested in doing this to my GT5000 which has the same hydro serie 3000 (mine is 331-3000). But at this point.... i'm gun shy because I dont want to have a non functioning tranny due to a maintenance project...
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:12 AM   post #27 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

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ummmm... from the looks of it.... the position of that rectangle mark on the oval plate..... it seems to be in the same location well...
That's a photo from before. I didn't drop the transaxle again just to check the housing position.

I'll report back tonight when I get a chance to flip it around.
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:06 PM   post #28 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

It moves!

I jacked up the rear, put my oil pan underneath, held the pump housing with one hand, and unscrewed the bolts with the other. Spin 180 degrees, put the bolts in. I think I lost about an ounce or so of oil.

Then I purged with the wheels off the ground, three times forward and reverse with the bypass valve open, and three times with it closed. This time around, the wheels spun right away! Success!

I dropped it back on the ground and took it for a test ride. It's more responsive than it ever was, and sounds quieter. In fact, the loudest thing under there now are the idler pulleys (which are worn and due for replacement soon).

So thanks again to everyone who responded here and by PM, especially tjw in kans, and searsman6000 for documenting this problem earlier. Have a virtual beer on me!

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Old 05-19-2010, 05:34 PM   post #29 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

What does that plate have to do with anything,what's in there?
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:47 PM   post #30 of 39
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Default Re: Hydro-Gear 3000 photos and fluid change

Quote:
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What does that plate have to do with anything,what's in there?
It's the charge pump, a small gerotor pump. Parts 52 and 54 here (sorry, couldn't find a photo of it):



I looked up what it does. From http://www.hydraulicspneumatics.com/...ydraulicPumpsM:
"...the charge pump performs two functions. First, it prevents cavitation of the main pump by replenishing the fluid lost by the closed system through pump and motor slip. It also provides pressurized fluid required by the variable-displacement control mechanism."
Anyway, it apparently matters how this one is lined up. There's probably a passage that wasn't obvious to me when I took it off, and that passage is blocked when it's assembled backwards. That's just a guess, but it makes sense to me.
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