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Old 05-11-2010, 09:23 AM   post #1 of 21
ldlittsen
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Default Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

I got the material to re-line my brake band from McMaster Carr and am wondering what the best way to attach it to the band would be? Being a saddle maker I have several sizes of stainless rivets but I dont know if I should to rivit it on, or to use adheasive? Also if I use adheasive what would be the best to kind to use? Thanks, Litz
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:48 AM   post #2 of 21
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

Liquid Nails makes construction glue that i think would rival most of the strongest glues i have ever seen! Not sure how it would work-- some people have glued and riveted these on and if they have holes for rivets, i would follow suit
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Old 05-11-2010, 12:49 PM   post #3 of 21
ldlittsen
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

Thx for the reply GT 80. I'll go with the rivets, and probably use adheasive also. (I'd rather not have to pull the trans again anytime soon to replace the brakes!) haha. Thanks again, Litz
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Old 05-11-2010, 12:56 PM   post #4 of 21
earth
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

The original brake bands used brass rivets to minimize brake drum wear. Today you might consider aluminum rivets. After you punch or pop the rivets through from the brake liner side, you then peen or hammer them flat on the back side.

Note to self. Remember when peening or hammering rivet from backside. Place a socket, punch or something on the front side of the rivet so you have something to hammer against. This way avoid hammering rivet back through by mistake.
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Old 05-11-2010, 01:10 PM   post #5 of 21
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

Quote:
Originally Posted by earth View Post
The original brake bands used brass rivets to minimize brake drum wear. Today you might consider aluminum rivets. After you punch or pop the rivets through from the brake liner side, you then peen or hammer them flat on the back side.

Note to self. Remember when peening or hammering rivet from backside. Place a socket, punch or something on the front side of the rivet so you have something to hammer against. This way avoid hammering rivet back through by mistake.
Yeap what he said.... Stainless would be hard on the drum.


Who needs brakes anyhow....This tractor needs a new lining but have not got to yet.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=127575
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:26 PM   post #6 of 21
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

I drilled and countersunk my original brake band lining..and used aluminum pop rivets and sonme "goop" stuff to glue it on--it was in perfect shape,other than having come unglued from the steel band..I didn't peen the rivets on the back side,didn't see a need too..the brake lining is fragile so use care when you drill it..

I just used a hand powered drill to do it,and all it took to countersink the holes was a larger bit just a bit bigger than the rivet heads,twisted by hand with NO drill,to remove just enough to let the rivets sit about halfway down into the lining..doubt I'll ever need to reline it or wear it down,to the point the rivets touch..
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:39 PM   post #7 of 21
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

[QUOTE=Small Fry;1170300]Yeap what he said....
Who needs brakes anyhow....
QUOTE]

Said just before pushing in the clutch on a steep grade.
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:08 PM   post #8 of 21
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

Quote:
Originally Posted by LilysDad View Post
QUOTE]

Said just before pushing in the clutch on a steep grade.

You have to be a little smarter then what your working with.

I was only kidding though.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:19 PM   post #9 of 21
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

You want brass rivets nothing hard ...
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:27 PM   post #10 of 21
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

Brass like Kevin said and if you want to glue also, I would use Gorilla Glue! That stuff really holds!
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:41 PM   post #11 of 21
ldlittsen
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

Thanks fopr the info Guys, I'll use either copper rivets, or aluminum rivets, and also "Monkey Snot" Gorrilla glue. Sorry for the bad punn.Thanks again, Litz
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Old 05-12-2010, 02:02 AM   post #12 of 21
Kevin Whittemore
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

I have a gravely tractor and was told to use JB Weld by the owner of Richards...I tried Gorilla glue first but it did not work when the brake band heated up....then I used JB Weld....been over a year and works great....hope this helps....
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:21 PM   post #13 of 21
ldlittsen
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

I got my band re-lined. Came out good. I used the same copper rivets that I use in my saddle shop for repair work and JB weld. (first I chucked the rivits in my drill press and turned down the head using an old horse shoeing rasp, drilled the new lining and countersunk the rivits into the lining a bit, applyed JB weld and rivited it together. It came out good.) Thank all you guys for your help/advice! Litz
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:44 PM   post #14 of 21
dlis94
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

Hey I am in the process of relining my tractors breaks when I found this thread, I have a few questions maybe you can help me with. I was wondering If you used the Non metallic brake material or the semimetal woven material from McMaster Carr, and were you able to easily bend it around the brake band, how Tough was it to drill through? Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2011, 07:08 AM   post #15 of 21
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Default Re: Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

Old thread, I know but I used these rivets from mcmaster carr, worked great got em for my old DB stuff but they work on later Ropers too

mcmCarr number
97451A652

I first tried copper pop rivets but they leave the steel ball at the end of the shaft in, and I thought it would soon gouge the drum so I switched to these brass ones

dlis, I used semi metallic, don'r remember why, maybe that was all they had in the width, thickness that I needed.
I heated it up wound it around the hot hub and clamped it until it cooled, might be better ways, but that's what I did

Last edited by 69l46vert; 02-26-2011 at 07:14 AM.
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