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Home Made Tractors, Implements and Accessories For you guys handy with a blow torch, welder or a wrench.. show us what you can do....

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Old 02-17-2010, 03:31 PM   post #1 of 15
jdcrawler
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Default Building my tractor-14

Links to previous post on this tractor.

Start http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=106336

-1 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=106460

-2 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=106557

-3 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=106877

-4 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=107462

-5 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=107889

-6 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=110374

-7 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showth...388#post981388

-8 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=111279

-9 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=111506

-9/2 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=111603

-10 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=112152

-11 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=112505

-12 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=112767

-13 http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=113539

**************************************************

This engine sat under the seat on the EzGo utility cart so the clutch pedal was in front of the engine.
The linkage from the clutch pedal pulled the clutch arm forward.
This is the original clutch lever arm on the engine.




The clutch pedal on the tractor is going to now be behind the engine so I need to change the clutch arm so it pulls backward.

First I cut the original clutch arm off.
Then I made a sleeve that fits over the clutch shaft. This sleeve has a 3/4 inch diameter shaft sticking out with a keyway milled into it.




Next, I made a new clutch arm that fits on the shaft.
This arm extends down along side the frame so when it is pulled backwards it opens the clutch.




For the clutch pedal pivot pin, I made a mounting plate from 5/8 inch thick steel.
A 1 inch diameter shaft is pressed into this plate and welded on the the back side.
This pivot pin is then bolted onto the side of the frame.

I found an old steel roller off something, that has bronze bushings with a 1 inch diameter bore.
This is going to be the base for the clutch pedal.




Because the steering is mounted on this side, I don't have as much room to work with as I did on the other side with the brakes.
This shows the clearance with the steering arm all the way back.
Also note, I welded a steel plug in the end of the foot pad support. There will be a brace from it to the pivot pin.




Here is the finished clutch pedal.




The pedal is mounted and the linkage is made between the clutch pedal and the clutch arm.
A plate is bolted on the end of the foot pad support and the end of the pivot pin.
This supports the end of the pin and keeps the clutch pedal from sliding off.




A view of the linkage from the top.




I tried to operate the clutch by hand with just the clutch arm and could not budge it.
The pedal works smoothly and is easy to operate even by hand.
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1945 John Deere Lindeman ( modified )
1949 Agricat crawler
1947 FMC Bean Cutler ( flat belt drive )
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#230
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#457
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AB01
1953 Bolens Ridemaster 35AB03 ( modified cart )
1937 Shaw Du-All tractor conversion
"R/T" home made tractor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1aD1wn7yNE
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Old 02-17-2010, 03:35 PM   post #2 of 15
jeepersmitty
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

Looks great.
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Old 02-17-2010, 04:50 PM   post #3 of 15
Tencubed
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

More quality work. Well thought out and executed.

Mike
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:10 PM   post #4 of 15
m.jodrey
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

That looks just like a factory built tractor.No actually,I think it looks better.
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:36 PM   post #5 of 15
rockinmywaypa
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

I'm quite impressed with all the webbings and gussets, They make the difference between something slapped together and a professional looking job.
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:07 PM   post #6 of 15
jdcrawler
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockinmywaypa View Post
I'm quite impressed with all the webbings and gussets, They make the difference between something slapped together and a professional looking job.
I probably don't really need some of them that are there but in the long run they can make the difference in it lasting 5 years or 30 years before I have to repair something.
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1945 John Deere Lindeman ( modified )
1949 Agricat crawler
1947 FMC Bean Cutler ( flat belt drive )
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#230
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#457
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AB01
1953 Bolens Ridemaster 35AB03 ( modified cart )
1937 Shaw Du-All tractor conversion
"R/T" home made tractor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1aD1wn7yNE
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:12 PM   post #7 of 15
old1mech
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

Out' standing!! I've been waiting to see what was next. Gettin tight in there ain't it?
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:53 PM   post #8 of 15
John@Reliable
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

Ray , talk about vision. Your work is second to none, outstanding.
Thank you for sharing it. John
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:05 AM   post #9 of 15
mikeemc
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

nice job .love the welding work. Later on you may find out your toe kicks the gas tank pushing that pedal down after a full days work, may want to shorten up that leaver a little. rest your heal rather than lift for the push . just a thought
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Old 02-18-2010, 07:29 AM   post #10 of 15
Ironmower
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

Great build, great post and great craftsmanship!! Thanks, can't wait to see it done.
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:09 PM   post #11 of 15
migraineman
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

Fantastic. That clutch pedal is just sexy as ****. Top notch construction. Keep up the good work.
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:58 PM   post #12 of 15
jdcrawler
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeemc View Post
Later on you may find out your toe kicks the gas tank pushing that pedal down after a full days work, may want to shorten up that leaver a little. rest your heal rather than lift for the push . just a thought
That's a good observation but the pedal isn't as close to the tank as the photos make it seam.
Here is a view from the seat. As you can see, the pedal sits to the outside of the tank and there is a lot of room between it and the tank.
I think it will be OK on clearance but that is just one of those things that I won't know for sure until I start driving it.
I can always change it later if I need to.

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1945 John Deere Lindeman ( modified )
1949 Agricat crawler
1947 FMC Bean Cutler ( flat belt drive )
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#230
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#457
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AB01
1953 Bolens Ridemaster 35AB03 ( modified cart )
1937 Shaw Du-All tractor conversion
"R/T" home made tractor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1aD1wn7yNE

Last edited by jdcrawler; 02-18-2010 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:43 PM   post #13 of 15
ben2go
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

It's time.Time to venture out and start your own line of production garden tractors.

This is one great build.
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Old 02-19-2010, 12:13 AM   post #14 of 15
C F Industries
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Wow J D I am very impressed with your fab work. I once made a clutch linkage for my 67 ranchero when I installed bronco running gear to make it 4 wheel drive. I had to remake the linkage 3 time before I designed something that would work and not bend or give me trouble . This looks professional. Great job
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:00 PM   post #15 of 15
Grand Sierra
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Default Re: Building my tractor-14

I won't me one of those. Nice work.
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