Frustrated! Case 446 Clutch Issues

[Kcunningham]

If you are mechanically adept you should take the clutch off and reassemble it, taking note the the cam and bearing assemblies have to be put on a certain way when reassembling it. You should study how the adjusting nut and adjusting nut guide work in concert with the nut that compresses the beveled washers. It took me several times to get it put back together the right way, but in doing this i came to understand exactly how it works. I could have never understood this by just looking the parts diagram.

[Bart]

Originally Posted by dpgoalie

I am not stopping the engine from turning while torqing the bolt. I hold the 1 3/4 bolt in place with a wrench while tightening the hex bolt....

Maybe this is the problem....

When you torque it that way you're likely turning the large adjusting nut instead of the nut you're trying to torque.

[dpgoalie]

Originally Posted by Bart

When you torque it that way you're likely turning the large adjusting nut instead of the nut you're trying to torque.

That makes sense. However, this is how I interpreted the manual. How do I keep the engine from turning?

Thanks in advance....

[Bart]

Remove the hose between the air filter housing and the flywheel housing then you can stick a large screwdriver in the ring gear.

[dpgoalie]

Originally Posted by david doyle

sorry I was confused by this:


How is the plastic bushing where the clutch lever passes through the tractor frame?

When I had mine apart I initially got it back together in correctly and was frustrated to know end by it till I realized that two pieces I thought were identical were not.

Are your spring washers fresh?

I have searched several sites that sell Case parts but was unable to find the plastic bushing......The spring washers are not fresh.......

[Caseguytoo]

We are fortunate in having Brian Hildreth here as an MTF member. His screen name is bhildret. Search some of the recent threads and find him. Click on his name and you will find a way to either e-mail or PM him.

Brian is an Ingersoll dealer and a very helpful one at that. You will not find very many parts listed at on-line stores. They only post the ones that are common to a wide number of models and years as well as being fast moving items. Give Brian you model and serial number and he will sell you whatever parts you need.

If your plastic bushing (referred to by David) is worn out, then replacing it is a good idea since we are talking low cost. As for your clutch, until you finally realize that a clutch is a high-wear item that does not last forever, you are going to have problems. If you want your clutch to work properly, then you have to replace worn out parts.

To figure out which parts should be replaced, a total dismantling of the clutch is required. Until then, you're just spinning your wheels.

[dpgoalie]

OK! We got over 4 inches again today and I readjusted the clutch again using the recommendations that I have received. I was able to do the whole yard without any issues. I did not change any parts but feel that I definitely should do some maintenance on the clutch.

However, the 2 pulley wheels under the tractor that the belts go on are rubbing together and sparking. I'm not sure how to adjust these...Should I start a new thread.

[Caseguytoo]

No.... a new thread isn't necessary.

Remove the belt.

Check both idlers for any side play. They should not move even a hair when you try to wiggle them sideways.

Look for bent hardware. Do the pulleys run true when you spin them? Do the run nice and free? Are the pulley mounts bent?

Are you sure that you are using the correct belt? If the belt is too long, then the pulleys are in the wrong position. How about the tension spring? Is it stretched out or are the coils tight together when it is relaxed?

What about the mule drive mount? Any sign of damage?

[dpgoalie]

Originally Posted by Caseguytoo

No.... a new thread isn't necessary.

Remove the belt.

Check both idlers for any side play. They should not move even a hair when you try to wiggle them sideways.

Look for bent hardware. Do the pulleys run true when you spin them? Do the run nice and free? Are the pulley mounts bent?

Are you sure that you are using the correct belt? If the belt is too long, then the pulleys are in the wrong position. How about the tension spring? Is it stretched out or are the coils tight together when it is relaxed?

What about the mule drive mount? Any sign of damage?

I checked all of the items that you listed and they SEEM fine and correct. For some reason I decided to push down hard on the idler arm and it made a hard clunk sound. This pushed down on one of the idler wheels and freed them from being stuck together. They no longer rub and spark. Not sure what this was a symptom of.

Everything works now!

Thanks guys!

Maybe I will begin restoring it this summer.

[lawnmower man]

If you have had the clutch apart, make sure that the two bearing carriers and installed with the center slots offset (one up one down) when you put your operating lever between them. This is what gives you your squeeze when you operate the pto lever. It will work if they are both in the same direction but your adjustment will be extremely critical and won't hold. having adjusted lots of these over many "improvements" made by case I can say easy adjust my #%&*.