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JD 54" blade Skid Shoes

27K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  HydroHarold 
#1 ·
Since I just plowed my first wet snow this year and the JD skids on my 54" blade did their usual tearing up the crushed bluestone driveway, I was wondering if anyone has fitted a pair of SnowBear shoes on their 54" blade. I was thinking the JD blade's low weight combined with the conical shape of the SnowBear shoes would allow the shoes to skim over the stone better than the JD skids, especially when I have to angle the blade...
SnowBear makes a 5", 4", and a smaller shoe for ATVs. I'm thinking of using the 4" but would like some feedback from this forum's members before I shell out $80.... Thanks
 

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#2 ·
Blacktop the driveway!!!

I can not help you with the blade but if I was doing a stone driveway with a bucket, blade, or blower I would try and keep an 1/2 in of snow on the driveway. This way you don't have any problems. I would also remove the feet that are giving you problems. I did this on my blower and it worked better. Just my two cents.
 
#3 ·
I've seen several guys just weld wider "feet" (about 6" wide) to the bottoms of the stock skids. Cost is under $20 for a shop to make and weld 'em for you.
 
#4 ·
I can't answer your question js, I've got a gravel drive too, and the 46" JD blade, so I know what you mean about the skid shoes tearing up the stone, was just outside and plowing in a wet snow, we got 6-7 inches here so far, pretty hard trying to keep from plowing up a bunch of gravel with each pass. What I did was adjust the skid shoes to even with the blade since they are not doing any good anyway, and just hold back on the lift handle some which helps keep the blade up a couple inches and helps keep from grabbing so much gravel. Course if you got hydraulic lift you would'nt have the strain of having to hold the handle up each pass.

Once the ground freezes good it won't be a problem.
 
#6 ·
Well, driveway is packed hard when its dry. It is "crusher run" which is stonedust, 1/2" and 3/4" bluestone mixed together. When you get wet snow, freeze, thaw, then snow, the skids will rut in. I was thinking of caster wheels and how to clamp them on the JD skids. Those darned skids aren't cheap so I wanted to avoid welding until I see how things workout!!!

Last year I plowed with the blade up an inch or so and the skids removed and finished off by backblading in the float position. Worked pretty well. I'm just toying with a lazy way to plow in the float position!!!

Mayor, when I win the Lotto, I'll have the $15k to blacktop the driveway!!! The price of oil has made blacktop close to $2.40 a sqft!!!:praying: :thanku:
 
#7 ·
Skids? What are those? My plow, I just use the actuator and set the height that way. Works great on my gravel drive.:thThumbsU
 
#8 ·
I have same trouble. those ones in your pic look like large bowls with all thread welded to them, threw tab with couple nuts. Not much to get for 80 dollars, tax, and shipping. Take a shot at making yours your self.:wwp:
Ps wife just said we could carpet the drive cheaper then asphalt.
 
#12 ·
No need for press just big hammer or the wifes old pots, drill whole, stick bolt up from bottom with nut on inside. Turn over pound bolt held down bellow bowl edge. the rest will work it self out. good luck thanks for the idea
 
#13 ·
Hi guys

I bought a 44" JD Blade for my LT166 last year, but bought a new x320 this year. I'd like to mount the blade on the x320 but I'm having trouble finding out what I need to mount this Blade on the x320. The kit for the LT166 (obviously) doesn't line up the same way on the x320 ;-)

Also, I think the transaxle is giving me problems on the LT166 as it loses power going up small inclines and I sometimes have to pump the gas to get it going. The engine seems to run fine and after the dealership put the wrong size belt on the mower initially, I finally got the mower going again. I'd like to get the LT166 going again, do you guys think it is worth trying to get the transaxle repaired or replaced? I can't say I have a lot of confidence in the dealership. When I brought it in this spring I mentioned that the steering wasn't working very well. They said it checked out fine, but a week later it went and I had to get the entire steering column replaced. That's when I bought the x320 -- my lawn couldn't wait the month it took to get that problem fixed! :)

Any advice would be appreciated!

thanks

Mark
 
#14 ·
I always used Meyer plows on my plow trucks and they work much like the plows on our tractors. I borrowed a set of the "domed type" feet and still tore up gravel driveways. I had the welder at work add 6" wide 1/4" thick plate to the feet and extended the curve past the end of the front of the shoe. No more problems with half thawed gravel.

My 48" JD blade got a rubber edge for plowing this time of year though I never got to use it on gravel it doesn't tear lawn up "quite as bad". I'd sure go with wider feet though and if you find they "float" and leave too much snow you can cut some off the edges of the plates to let it sink further. The perfect width will depend on how much your blade weighs.
 
#16 ·
Riderpride,
A few years ago, a friend of mine had transaxle problems with a Craftsman rider. Called around and went online and a replacement unit was more than the tractor was worth.
You can get an estimate on repair, find a used/junked LT166 for parts, or unload the LT-166.
Maybe the transaxle belt is to loose???:Welcome1:
 
#17 ·
JDEERE_GREEN, Where did you get the rubber squeege? Price? Do you "float" the blade at all? Did you remove the JD skids?

HydroHarold, Sounds like the 6" plates may be the way to go!!!:thanku:
 
#19 ·
You have two options on the rubber squeeze, either buy a factor one from Deere (just go to parts and ask ~$70) or you can buy a 4' x 6' rubber mat for horses (3/4" thick), cut it, drill the holes and mount it yourself. The mat should set you back $30, and it can be a bear to cut it and drill. As for plowing, I use float and it works great. :thThumbsU
 
#20 ·
AFTER I bought my squeegee I found out about the "stall pad" sold at Tractor Supply. Being a miserly tightwad cheapskate (except for buying tractors, saws, tools...) I would have taken a crack at making one. In fact I'd like to make a "double", one in front of the steel edge as well as in back and see how that does.

Re: the 6" plates under the feet. For a GT blade, 48" or 56+" that might be a bit too wide. I had the 6" plates on a Meyer 7.5' power angle truck plow and they were about perfect for pea gravel and the weight of that plow rig. Might be way too wide for a much lighter plow, it might ride way over the gravel. However, you can always cut some off the edges to reduce the floatation over the snow. Don't forget to round off the edges and back of the new feet so they will swivel without digging in (as much).

Neighbor of mine asked me one night to plow his buddy's driveway during a big snow. But he failed to tell me it was bluestone pea gravel. 4' high piles of half snow half gravel at the ends of the parking space and all along the side of the 150' run in... He was a good sport though and helped me fix it up when the thaw came. HE did the shovel work and I backbladed the gravel out with the plow. Only took an hour so not too bad... "Always ask if it's paved!" :ROF
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the replies JDEERE_GREEN and HydroHarold. Went to our local TSC for the stall mat. I swear they are a bunch of dickweeds... Out of stock like most things you want. No idea when they will get any. I'll see if Agway has it or something close. Thinking of cutting it with a table saw or scrollsaw if a utility knife is too hard!!!

The steel plates will have to wait. Right now I have the JD skids even with the bottom edge so they don't tear up the stone. Plowed last snowfall with the blade up a little and then floated the blade and back-bladed to finish. Worked real well. Supposed to get 4"-6" tonight and more for the weekend. Hurray!!! More seat time!!!:thThumbsU
 
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