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8n ford clutch stuck

24K views 21 replies 11 participants last post by  yonnie 
#1 ·
I figured out why it wouldnt go into gear, but it will only grind the gears if i depress the clutch when running and try to shift. So i blocked the clutch down, and put it in 4th gear and tensioned the tractor using a come along to a tree for force. Will this method work if it sits like this for a few days? Or does anyone have some better ideas? I dont want to split the tractor to fix the clutch. Its been sitting for bout 10 years. Hoping shell break loose. Any suggestions?
 
#2 ·
10ys?

I'd pull the starter and get a can of pb oil and use the straw and hose the clutch / flywheel down as best you can.. use the entire 5$ can.

lave clutch blocked a day, then come out and check.. if nothing, set in seat, make sure battery is hot, put in 4th gear, leavy clutch blocked, stand on brakes, and use a nail or knife to short from safety start thumb switch to trans cover.. just a bump.. do this over and over.. if you are lucky in 10 bumps or so it will break free.

post back.

soundguy
 
#3 ·
PB blaster wont hurt te clutch>? I thought it messed em up? Maybe im wrong though
 
#4 ·
hurt the clutch?

it's stuck and 100% unuseable at this point.. if you don't get it unstuck you will be splitting and replacing it possibly. the light oil from the pb can be partially washed off once you get her unstuck by using carb or brake cleaner.. the stuff on the face will burn off ont he first slip.. and the rest? will be just like the oil from the leaky rear main, and leaky trans input shaft that NORMALLY gets on the clutch....

soundguy
 
#5 ·
Some people drill a 1/4 hole behind the starter bump to spray the BP. I don't. I pull the starter and heat and bend the straw. I use the straw off the carb cleaner can. It can also be acessed by pulling the steering box. Make sure you rotate the flywheel to get the clutch soaked on all sides.
Post back. Good luck.

Kirk
 
#6 ·
I've freed up stuck clutches by putting the machine in gear, blocking the clutch pedal down and rocking the machine back and forth as it tries to turn the engine. I suspect the PB would help a lot but have never used any kind of solvent but then the rigs never sat for ten years either.

Good luck with this, it may take awhile to get it broke loose as it could be the shaft is stuck in the pilot bearing and/or the driven disk is stuck to the flywheel.

Mike
 
#7 ·
Well i ended up splitting the transmission any way/ It was stuck horrible! Im not entirely sure how too take the clutch apart, but im guessing the bolts on the clutch housing cover does the holding of the lutch on. Tommorow im taking the clutch apart and inspecting the plate to see if i can get them off and get a rebuild kit for it.
 
#8 ·
The clutch assembly and driven disk should be rebuild-able, check with your parts store about that. NAPA, Car Quest or somewhere where they have decent counter people. If they don't have an exchange available they can send your in for repair.

Look the flywheel over very closely as it may have rust or other damage and need to be resurfaced.

If you find a lot of rust be careful about the bolts, not that easy to drill them out if broken off.

Mike
 
#9 ·
hmm their isnt any rust at all on the clutch bolts, and am expecting a little pitting on the flywheel, but should wear off in time. I will look at it closely. Thank you for the advice, Mike.
 
#11 ·
Well the clutch was totaly screwed up, so i called my local tractor shop, and he had an entire clutch kit- bearings, installation tool, disc, housing etc. all for 125.00. I thaught to avoid any chance of it freezing up again and prolonging my tractors clutch life, that was the best way to go. I installed all the bearings, and the clutch assembly. Heading out now to put the tractor back togather. Hope it goes togather simply, and not be a big headeache. Thanks for the help. Ill update tonight. Thanks, mike/
 
#14 ·
ahh suck. I forgot to change that seal! Blast! O well, maybe itll last a while god willin. That thing works better with that new clutch kit than it ever did before. I put a tune up ignition kit in it too- that engine runs as smoothe as a mercedez diesel. Includes autolite plugs, pointa, condenser, wires, cap. Wow what a difference. All in a 100 dollar tractor is what i paid. That rear end oil is red, rusty, overfilled. I am going to replace it asap/ tractor supply. I believe it is 5 gallons. Looks like 80w90. Is that right>? My other tractor uses that 132 or whatever. I think the worn hydros like heavier oil. Whats best to use in the transmission/hydrolic system?
 
#20 · (Edited)
This thread is old, hope someone is still listening.
My Ford 8n, 1951 model decided to quit right after blading ~550 yds of dirt. Pretty sure it's the clutch. Have a pile of 5yds (last dump-truck load) to finish job. Tractor is stuck, won't move on it's own power.

Is this model a standard clutch arrangement like a car or truck?

A few weeks ago I stopped at a parts store and they looked at me funny when I asked for mineral oil.
 
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