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4-Cycle Engine Oil Detergent/non-detergent

11K views 22 replies 15 participants last post by  Plan-b 
#1 ·
When I worked at the lawnmower shop I was told...
When a customer brings in a 4-cycle...
Drain the oil and replace it with non-detergent.
Because...
Without a doubt the customer had put detergent oil in the motor.
...and, overfilled it... to boot.
So...fresh oil (ND) (Do not overfill).
So...I bought ND oil at Wallyworld today...
It says "Do not use in cars manufactured after 1936"!
Is all of this correct? :duh: :duh: :hide: :banghead3
 
#3 ·
Yes, that is all correct. If you have an engine manufactured before 1936 go to the well head and get only Pennyslvania Sweet Crude directly from the oil well or you will ruin any engine that runs 350 rpm or above. But be sure to drain the salt water off until you see good fresh crude oil.:sidelaugh :sidelaugh :sidelaugh
 
#4 ·
Maybar said:
Yes, that is all correct. If you have an engine manufactured before 1936 go to the well head and get only Pennyslvania Sweet Crude directly from the oil well or you will ruin any engine that runs 350 rpm or above. But be sure to drain the salt water off until you see good fresh crude oil.:sidelaugh :sidelaugh
Boy...Maybar, That was just...cruel. :ROF :ROF :bananapow
 
#6 ·
All depend upon your view if a engine with excessive sludge is OK. I've seen more than my share of engines run on ND or very little detergent and when you pulled the valve cover, it was solid crud. ND, no thanks.
 
#7 ·
Mickey said:
All depend upon your view if a engine with excessive sludge is OK. I've seen more than my share of engines run on ND or very little detergent and when you pulled the valve cover, it was solid crud. ND, no thanks.
Uhhh...No.
What if an engine has sludge and you add detergent?
I'm talking about a Toro GTS 4.5 here. :hide:
 
#8 ·
Likely nothing if engine is splash lubed. Would change oil often until engine is cleaned out. If engine has a lot of time on it, possibility of leaky oil seals and engine may run a little noisier.
 
#9 ·
"Would change oil often until engine is cleaned out."

Yup, and this is the reason to change oil when it's hot, just run, right after mowing, before ANY beer... All the **** in the oil is still suspended and you get the most out of using yer drain hole.

I tried to find 20w ND at NAPA but they only had 30w. I use it for lubing electric motor bearings. I did find a source for "3 in 1" oil in quarts though... Casa Depota. It's supposed to be good for electrical motors and such.

Now, since we're all concerned with the bottom $ line... Has anyone tried ND oil with a spoonful of Sunlight dishwashing detergent in it? The crank and rods should dry with no spots anyway.:D
 
#12 ·
I would use a good grade of straight 30 detergent oil up to todays classification. The with the way todays engines run in cars the oil must do more to protect the engine internals. At vw if you look at what they want in there engines only synthetic will work because of what the engine must do. So with this a good grade of up to date oil is what I would say. This is 2007 not 1937 and there are many OHV small engines out there, but thats my opinion.
 
#14 ·
Some pressure washers call for ND in the Pump but all the small engine manufacturers call for Detergent oil in the engine crankcase. I use air compressor pump oil in my compressors, in the winter I use a winter weight oil that allows the compressor to turn over in the cold temps. As with all small engines that are without an oil filter, you should change it often and use the weight of oil that the manufacturer recommends. Once broken in, I prefer Mobil One synthetic oil in my small engines. :thThumbsU
 
#15 ·
Dan Lovell said:
On my pressure washer it says 30#nd oil for the pump, not for the engine. Dealer said detergent oil would cause foaming in the pump. Farm& Fleet carries ND oil.

Dan
Dan, I'd question the dealer on the ND and foaming. ND should be just straight dino juice. Part of the additive package in detergent oils is an anti-foaming agent.
 
#19 ·
Well, I dug up this old thread because I am borrowing a friend's 6 HP Briggs/Stratton push mower (Murray) and she gave me a quart of 30w non-detergent oil for it. I told her I would change the oil, but was wondering about the non-detergent; I also didn't even know they still made non-detergent oil. Anyway, I think I will get some 10w-30 decent oil for it. Should that be okay - 10w-30, that is?
 
#20 ·
IMO:
No oil filter, non detergent.
Oil filter, detergent.

Thats what I have been taught, and hasn't failed me yet... Yet...
 
#22 ·
I definitely would not use that Walmart ND oil in the engine. The stuff I've seen is the "Accel" brand and has the API SA classification. That's an OLD OLD spec, and is likely Group I oil. In my opinion, you don't want that in anything. Buy a modern oil, filter or not, and you'll be just fine.
 
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