now that i have the 990, i'm tempted to go to the local yard and pick this up:
condition of the engine and the rear end is unknown so that's a crapshoot. it would be nice to have a spare set of wheels. and a few odds and ends i can pull off this one. the spare frame would make the rebuild easier.
finally made time this weekend to troubleshoot the 990. a little gas, a little tinkering with the battery cables, a little cleanup to the points and vrroooommmm. that bad boy fired without a problem.
gas tank is leaking so will have to fix it and the carb will probably need a rebuild in the near future but i'm very happy with it.
I have an M D T 990A farm King Tractor it appears to have been made by Jeep , one problem no Motor the body of the machine is in excellent condition . Can anyone tell me what the shaft length on that briggs motor was it was A single stroke I am sure of that . any ideas as to A replacement motor .
If you don't pick it up, future regret may rear it's head. The charge pump alone may be worth it. The rear fenders might clean up too. I paid $20 for the parking brake control slide. The front hubs are nice too. I sold an extra set of cleaned and painted lift pull rods for $50.
I would get that parts tractor. There are lots of usable parts on it. I see it has the early style 3 bolt front hubs. Those are preferred over the newer style c-clip hubs.
Nice looking 990! If that parts machine is cheap/free snap it up. You know how hard these things are getting to find. I waited a year for a rear hub with unbroken 3pt tabs to come up on Ebay.
thanks for the input, picked up the would be parts donor today. the fenders are super rough but everything else should be a nice parts bank for the restoration. now i have to rebuild a couple of horizonal briggs and sell my extra craftsman stuff to make some money for the loader (yeah, i'm going for it )
thanks for that bit of info (on the bracket). if it carried one of those big blowers it can probably be useful for mounting other things (i.e. like the generator i want to mount to run off the PTO) so i'll hang on to it
finally made time this weekend to troubleshoot the 990. a little gas, a little tinkering with the battery cables, a little cleanup to the points and vrroooommmm. that bad boy fired without a problem.
gas tank is leaking so will have to fix it and the carb will probably need a rebuild in the near future but i'm very happy with it.
been a long time but i finally made some time to work on the 990. before i get to that, another addition to my 990 stable. picked up an almost complete 990 from an MTF member a while back. no 3pt or deck but it did come with a snow plow/dozer blade. not sure what i'm going to do with it yet.
ok, back to the farm king project: i fixed the gas tank leak and removed a massive mouse nest under the engine tin. i put everything back but now it won't fire. not getting any spark. not sure what the problem is but i'm going to replace the points/condenser, coil, and spark plug. hoping that will all new stuff, things will work better.
I had the same problem with Dayton 990. I did the same thing, replaced all the electronic parts. Just make sure your points are gapped right, and your coil is a business card above the flywheel you should be good.
Also I would check its not grounding out from the mice chewing a wire
OEM snowblower I had for mine hooked to that same style bracket, but measured 48".
'Twas a beast for sure. Just sold the whole works with 50" deck (broken planetary bracket), likely governor issue, non-running) for $300, well, about 3 years ago.
put in the new plug along with new coil, points, and condenser. still don't have spark. it cranks well but nothing to the plug (at least i can't see anything in my spark tester).
question on the coil: does it have to be installed with the spark plug cable to the right? also, the uninsulated wire is a ground that goes to the same bolt as the coil (at least that's how it was on mine) while the second (the insulated wire coming off the coil) goes out to the condenser?
not sure what is happening with this thing. any way the solenoid could be failing on me? thanks!
A person who will remain nameless, has been known to put a Kohler style coil on both Tecumsehs & Briggs engines when the factory coil goes bad. As long as they have points to hook to, an automotive style coil will always work as a last (or first) resort.
finally got it running. previous owner had installed the coil backwards. well, not exactly sure if there is a 'backwards' at this point since the thing fired up with the coil pointing in both directions but it definitely runs better with the spark plug cable pointing to the left side (when facing the front of the engine). also replaced the rusty seat (no cushion on it when i bought it) with an older Sears style seat i picked up at the junkyard.
now i have to finish sorting out the transmission (there is no neutral, it either creeps forward or in reverse, even with the lever in Park/Brake) and a few small things and i should be ready to being fitting it for the loader i picked up a couple of weeks ago (see thread here)
adjusted neutral and took it for a spin and it is a beast. not even the slipperiest ice slowed it down one bit (turfs + chains) and the engine runs great. one thing that concerns me is that the muffler was glowing red hot. it's a muffler i got off a donor.
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but if it is glowing red hot when it's this cold out, i thing i might have a problem on my hands (muffler too restrictive?)
lots done to the 990 this week. i replaced the pressure line on the lift cylinder, adjusted the 3pt lift, and finished adjusting the carb.a side note on hydraulic line: man, are those things expensive. i had the 18" section done at the local NAPA, it came to $37. pretty much a rip off as far as i'm concerned but i paid it because i wanted to get the 990 going before the storm that's coming.
with the 990 running correctly, i had it out for some now clearance this morning.
i adjusted the 3pt hitch to pick up the blade and it works well but i still feel like the adjustment isn't quite right.. basically, when i turn the blade (i think it's a 30 degree angle) it moves snow really nicely (the blade is 54" wide) but the blade at an angle is really long and even with the highest lift point of the 990s 3pt, the lowest angle still hangs a bit too low. i'll have to find something on MTF on adjusting 3pts and blades (i'm sure there's been a write up on it somewhere)
Nice setup and the blade looks heavy enough to stay stuck to the ground.
The only way I know of to raise the lift height of the 3 pt hitch is to shorten the pull arms and use the lower holes on the lift arms. Have to watch for the center link hitting the tool tray.
thanks. yeah, the blade is pretty heavy and it definitely stays on the ground. we have gravel on the driveway so i might add some feet or pads because the blade is heavy enough to really drag the driveway along if i'm not being careful.
i've already shortened the arms but i still had it on the lower holes. will try again tomorrow.
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