2 Cycle Mix Question

[davbell22602]

What can happen if I use a 50:1 ratio in machine that's rated for a 40:1 fuel mixture?

[Jere39]

If you are using a good synthetic oil, almost certainly nothing. BUT, if something does happen for any reason, fuel mix related or not, your equip mfg may void your warranty.

[davbell22602]

I'd be using the stuff made Tru South that premixed in the can. Just pour it from the can without adding fuel to it. I can get it from Dixie. I own Stihl equipment but have used poulan chainsaws to sell later in the summer. Nothing new that has a warranty. I fix used equipment to resell.

[schan1269]

We have a Poulan 40/1 chainsaw and a troy/bilt 50/1 tiller...

I once accidentally ran the 50/1 in the chainsaw...it was obvious. Don't think anything would happen long term, but it wasn't happy(it sounded like it was having spark knock).

[APinNY]

I use 50:1 in all my 2 cycle engines, but it is a synthetic oil. It's a little more expensive but much more convenient. I wouldn't do it with dino oil.

[davbell22602]

The true south oil is a synthetic oil mix in the can.

http://www.trusouthoil.com/trusouth-50-fuel/

[Mantas]

My weed whip is 40:1 but my tiller, mower, edger, blower, and snowblower are all 50:1. Needless to say I only mix one can. I use synthetic oil and can't tell that the whip isn't getting enough oil. My thinking was that it would cost more in oil/fuel for me to mix two cans and waste gas at the end of the year compared to the whip seizing up in a few years....and it has been 4 years now so I think I'm coming out ahead.

[MacLawn]

Mantas, here is a post I made last year (or sometime) about using 50:1 oil:

A few years ago, I was in a Stihl shop and mentioned to the guy that I had a Homelite chain saw I bought in 1977 that required 16:1 ratio. He said to use Stihl 50:1 oil in it - I figured, oh well, if it kills the thing, no problem, I need a new chain saw anyway. Well, I used Stihl 50:1 oil in it - nary a problem! Now, that is all I use in all my 2 cycle engines, at 50:1 ratio. Except my outboard of course. I use OMC oil.

I love this Stihl oil! I could not believe that it would work so well in these old chain saws I have. I have been using it in a 25 year old Poulan, a Craftsman weed eater that says to use 40:1, and as I mentioned, everything else 2 cycle except my outboard. I say get Stihl 2 cycle oil, use it and forget it!

BTW - my 1,000th post is on the chain saw thread!!

[AnthemBassMan]

-My Dad just gave me about 6 or 8 bottles of the Stihl 50:1 oil in the orange bottles. Good stuff, eh?

L8R,
Matt

[MacLawn]

Originally Posted by AnthemBassMan

-My Dad just gave me about 6 or 8 bottles of the Stihl 50:1 oil in the orange bottles. Good stuff, eh?

L8R,
Matt

Yes, Anthem! Use it 50:1 in everything 2 cycle except outboards - at least I do as I mentioned.

[HydroHarold]

"If it calls for 50:1 use 50:1, if it calls for 32:1 mix it 32:1, etc." so it says in "This Geezer's Encyclopedia of Aquired Knowledge". I cannot see for the life of me what all the fooling around with manufacturer fuel/oil recommended mixes is all about. Anybody want to clue me in with the real anti-establishment truths?

[echoman]

Hydro, the point I was trying to make and always recommend is this. Years ago, oil was very much alike, in chemistry and blending which included solvents to aid in fuel mixing completey to keep separation minimal. Today, with certain synthetics and brands, oils can be found heavily concentrated to give you actual mix ratios higher than "normal" as you would premix at yet still provide the required protection. 2 oils that come to mind are Opti 2 and Amsoil Sabre Professional. These oils mix lean but protect like other oils anywhere from a 32:1 to 50:1(average). Not too many pieces out there still requiring a 16 or 24:1, but you can mix heavier of course. Plug reading is recommended. If you tried running this oil or some synthetics as heavy as one would normally mix, say 32:1, 4oz of oil per 1 gallon of gas, the engine simply can not consume that concentration of oil per gas ratio which would lead to poor performance and oily residue spewing out of any orifice it could. That's why I always will recommend mixing fuel at the oil manus recommendations and not the engine manu. Years ago, yes, you would always mix at the engine's manu recs. Today, some oils will fully protect at much leaner mix ratios. Most engine manu's tech departments will answer any questions you have regarding these types of questions. I've spoke to Echo's tech people a few times about mixing ratios and their engines specifically. Hope this helps clarify a bit for you.

[c5rulz]

Originally Posted by HydroHarold

"If it calls for 50:1 use 50:1, if it calls for 32:1 mix it 32:1, etc." so it says in "This Geezer's Encyclopedia of Aquired Knowledge". I cannot see for the life of me what all the fooling around with manufacturer fuel/oil recommended mixes is all about. Anybody want to clue me in with the real anti-establishment truths?

Hard to argue with "This Geezer's Encyclopedia of Aquired Knowledge".

Personally I mix 40:1 when it calls for 50:1 and use synthetic which comes with a fuel stabilizer. It's not expensive anyway.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...m=17040&catID=

The new producst calling for the leaner mix is nothing more than coercion from the enviromental nazis. I'd rather error on the side of caution and tune the 2 cycles slightly fat too.

I have saved a bunch of the 1 gallon mix bottles that came with 2.6 oz. Then I relabeled them and split the 6.5 oz bottles in half with an accurate measuring cup so each now has 3.25 oz. Now when mixed with 1 gallon of fresh ethanol free gas the mix is 40:1.

I mix up small 1 gallon batches so it is fresher than 2 1/2 gallons which would take a while to use unless I am cutting firewood.

[jdemaris]

Originally Posted by echoman

If you tried running this oil or some synthetics as heavy as one would normally mix, say 32:1, 4oz of oil per 1 gallon of gas, the engine simply can not consume that concentration of oil per gas ratio which would lead to poor performance and oily residue spewing out of any orifice it could. .

That is silly. I've been running 20 to 1 in everything I own - be it 60 years old or 1 year old. I run 20-1 Amsoil synthetic in my new 51 and 64 cc Dolmars and my 56 cc EFCOs. Also in my little Echo, 55 cc Husqvarna, and cheap 55 cc Poulans. Also in all my older Sthils, e.g. 045 Super, 041 super, 041G, 040, S10, 08S, etc. I cut hardwood all summer and fall. I've had zero problems. No "poor performance" or "oily residue" as you claim.

More oil gives more protection. That has been proven in lab testing and is not hearsay as some allude to here. New saws run "rich" mixtures with less oil to meet emissions regs - that's all. And they have to be built tougher to sustain it.

Now - carbs work by volume so putting more oil in the mix results in less gas per volume. So, more oil in the mix sometimes requires opening up the main jet a bit since more oil means a "leaner" mix, not "richer."

I'm not saying anyone needs more oil then recommended. But to say more oil causes problems is kind of ridiculous unless you go way overboard. If a saw can last X amount of years with 50 to 1, chances are it will last even longer with with a heavier mix. There have been countless metal wear-scar tests proving this.

By the way, my Stihl 045 Super and 041 Super have both run 20 t0 1 since new and that was over 25 years ago. Both still have the original Bosch spark plugs.

[echoman]

Yeah? You run 20:1 Sabre Pro in your stuff? Runs good? Why would you run 20:1 in a machine designed for 50:1? I can understand 40, but 20:1? Why? Have you opened anything up to see how it affects the engine? I'm sorry but 20:1 using a modern oil is serious overkill which you'll achieve nothing by. You need to talk to some engine manufacturers and racers/engine builders alike and prove your claim. Don't think for a sec I'm leaning towards a "cleaner environment" when it comes to MY engines and the best protection/long life.