Exh manifold? you don't need those anyways, right?

[AngryBeaver]

was using the Bota and the Beaver today to finish my yard project. Got everything leveled out with the Beaver and was using the Bota to move dirt for the small spots to finish leveling out and also to pull my agri-fab seed spreader. While it was sitting there idling as I was spreading some straw I noticed the pitch of the exhaust changed slightly.... here was the result









I"m guessing the weight of my stack is what killed the manifold.... I was just going to take the darn stack off this week as I was going to trade it in on a BX this weekend... Figures....

[Oo-v-oO]

That's a bummer... I try to keep preaching how bad an unsupported stack is.

Hey, at least it was just the manifold and some broken studs and not the head itself, right?

[AngryBeaver]

Originally Posted by Oo-v-oO

That's a bummer... I try to keep preaching how bad an unsupported stack is.

Hey, at least it was just the manifold and some broken studs and not the head itself, right?

correct.... four of the studs broke, and they are way down in. If they were flush, I;d weld some nuts on and back them out.... I think I'm gonna have to drill them...

I've got no experience stacks, but man I wish someone would have said something sooner

[Mike Milburn]

If they were flush, I;d weld some nuts on and back them out

If you have access to Certanium products Certanium 707 is the cats behind for broken off recessed studs, especially in your situation where the studs are horizontal as the slag will run out. The slag keeps the arc from hitting the sides of the hole and they're strong. I use them quite a bit at work and they haven't failed me yet, come in sizes down to 1/16"..
Easiest way I've found to use them is strike the arc on the end of the stud and keep it going, burying the arc in the slag pool. If you do have to break the arc to change rods for example, make sure you get all the slag out as it's next to impossable to get any kind of bond thru the slag.
Once you have enough material built up either use a set of vice grips on the built up weld or weld a nut to the end using a 7018...Mike

[4x4_Welder]

I've welded to studs that deep in before, TIG is your friend here. I used a washer, high gas flow and a lot of stickout. Steel filler (doesn't really stick to the cast iron), and get a good solid weld between the stud and washer. Once that's in place, I usually use MIG to weld a nut on, and spin the whole thing out of the hole.
If you have access to an oxy-acetylene torch, that's the easiest way. make sure you're very well covered up and there is nothing burnable nearby, then have a hose handy for the stuff you forgot about. Using a cutting tip, heat the stud, not the head, just the stud to glowing, then give a blast of oxygen. Nearly all the steel will blow right out. You will need to run a tap into the hole to make sure the threads are good, but this method is by far the easiest for deeply recessed studs.

Do not use an easy-out.

[caseguy]

Id mig a nut on it. I do it all the time on the school buses heads. Ive never had a issue. That was the best trick Ive ever been taught. You may have to do it two or three times.

[tomw0]

That manifold has been cracked and broken for quite a while. Hard to say if the stack was the ultimate cause. Bet it still caused quite a surprise when it fell off. Given the broken bolts/studs, I'd say that the bottom three and one upper were overwhelmed by the lever arm and lack of support from the other two ports. Was it ever quiet?
tom