Got a free Jubilee, have pics, have lots of questions too - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information

RAND81 · 04-03-2012, 09:39 PM

My father and mother in-law moved into the city and me and the wife moved out to the country. So my father in-law stopped by with his 1953 Jubilee and just gave it to us. He figured we would actually restore it and use it, plus it stays in the family and whats he gonna do with it in the city anyways.

He went ahead and converted it from 6V to 12V before he brought it to me, trans was rebuilt 3 years ago and the engine roughly 10 years ago.

From what i can see, it needs: all new body work, all new gauges, new steering wheel, new rear rims and inner disks, new front rims, front grill, its missing the brush guard, PTO shaft seal, looks like its leaking fluids in a couple different areas. It needs more than just this but this is major stuff i can see right off the bat without digging to deep.

Im a little nervous working on this thing, its big and its heavy. If i had to split it i wouldnt even know how i would go about doing it. Just removing a rear rim/tire spooks me, they probably weigh more than i do.

So here she is, followed with alot of questions, please help if you can.

And the leaking PTO shaft.......... i think

Questions:
1. Rear rims are rusted right through in some spots, they are toasted. But the tires hold air so im assuming they have tubes, they would have to right? Do most large tractors use tubes from the factory? At least in that era? Father in-law says they are filled with chloride also, i find that a bit strange, where would someone get that much chloride, just weird if its even true.

2. PTO shaft is leaking, its definitely not the PTO cover gasket thats leaking as you can see in the pic. There is an inner seal somewhere on the shaft right? Does anyone know the part that i need? Ive been looking but im not sure im looking at the right seal. Can anyone tell me how to do it or how difficult it is to replace the seal? I did see that i can get a whole new PTO shaft assembly ready to install right out of the box, would anyone recommend to just go ahead and replace the whole sha-bang? Its only $100 or so, not that bad really and its gotta be easier to replace right? My father inlaw says i have to split the tractor to replace the seal/whole assembly, is that true? I find that hard to believe.

3. Hydraulics. When i put them in the highest position and then shut the tractor down after awhile the hydraulics go all the way back down. Is that normal? Shouldnt they stay where i left them?

4. Whats the proof meter? What does it do? The thing is in such bad shape i cant see through the glass, i dont think it even works.

5. I cant seem to take off gradually or smoothly. No matter how slow and gentle i am letting out the clutch it just wants to take off and jerks you back, its a violent jerk to. Does the same thing in reverse, at this point i wont back up to anything, not even my trailer, i fear that its going to get away from me and do some serious damage or get me hurt.

I have alot more questions but lets start with these for now. I also have more pics of all the "problem areas" that im gonna need some help with.

Thanks to anyone who can help a total newb!

RAND81 · 04-03-2012, 09:44 PM

Number 3 got answered in this thread lol
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=210391

SandDawg · 04-04-2012, 04:29 AM

Some Jubilee links of interest:

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-trac...-ford-naa.html

MTF Searched Links:

http://www.mytractorforum.com/gtsear...esc%26page%3D7

I have not tried to download these but found this link:

http://www.mobipdf.com/free/free-man...rd-jubilee.pdf

Jubilee Parts:

http://antique-tractor-parts.steiner...rd_jubileeford brand:ford resulttype

roducts&isort=score&method=and&view=gr id

Kirk-NJ · 04-04-2012, 06:23 AM

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=218072
parts manual
Rims are filled which Cal Chloride. Care must be taken with rim removal. Normally the tire/rim/center disc weigh about 200 lbs. loaded tire could weigh 500 lbs +. If doing both tires at one time, When jacking up the rear from center block up both sides of the axle and only raise tire about an inch off the ground. If you don't block up each axle and just jack from the middle once you take the one side off the weight will shift to the heavy side and slide off the jack. Be careful. Although I have changed many loaded tires myself I don't know your capibilities so you might want to have a friend on hand to help.
It up to you if you wnt to change out the whole pto shaft. Yours is 1 1/8 with 1 3/8 adapter. 1 3/8 is what most implements are now. I would also recomend a ORC if you are going to do any brushhogging.
Almost half my proofmeters don't work. It ain't no big deal. If you want to spend the money to get a new one, thats up to you.
Try to Throttle down to idle when taking off in first gear see if that helps.
I see nothing wrong with your grille that a hammer and a little bondo and paint won't fix.
The front rims look fine it the photos
Good luck with your new tractor.

Kirk

RAND81 · 04-04-2012, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kirk-NJ

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=218072
parts manual
Rims are filled which Cal Chloride. Care must be taken with rim removal. Normally the tire/rim/center disc weigh about 200 lbs. loaded tire could weigh 500 lbs +. If doing both tires at one time, When jacking up the rear from center block up both sides of the axle and only raise tire about an inch off the ground. If you don't block up each axle and just jack from the middle once you take the one side off the weight will shift to the heavy side and slide off the jack. Be careful. Although I have changed many loaded tires myself I don't know your capibilities so you might want to have a friend on hand to help.
It up to you if you wnt to change out the whole pto shaft. Yours is 1 1/8 with 1 3/8 adapter. 1 3/8 is what most implements are now. I would also recomend a ORC if you are going to do any brushhogging.
Almost half my proofmeters don't work. It ain't no big deal. If you want to spend the money to get a new one, thats up to you.
Try to Throttle down to idle when taking off in first gear see if that helps.
I see nothing wrong with your grille that a hammer and a little bondo and paint won't fix.
The front rims look fine it the photos
Good luck with your new tractor.

Kirk

What is Cal Chloride? Why was that used?

Oh yes i do plan on supporting the whole rear end on both sides when removing the tires/rims. Kind of a no brainer there and there is no way im handling any large parts on this thing without backup at my side lol. So they do have tubes right? I know its an odd question but the whole rim/disk/tire setup is unlike anything ive dealt with before. Im used to rim/tire, thats it.

Im probably going to change the whole PTO shaft, from what ive been reading its just pulling out the old and sliding in the new.

Whats an ORC? Why do i need that? Whats it do?

What is the proofmeter? whats it suppoed to tell me when its working? I have a thing about all my gauges working.

Also i have a thing about no leaks. Especially no leaks, at this point i wont even pull it into my shop (pole barn) until its not leaking anymore. PTO shaft isnt a major leak but its the worste leak this thing has, it might leave a quarter sized spot on the floor in about 24 hours time. The rest of the leaks arent dropping anything to the ground from what i can see, the areas are just wet. Its wet on the left side where the rear axle meets the rear end, i cant tell exactly where its coming from though. I will get pics of this asap, hopefully someone can help me with that also, maybe someone had a similar leak at that spot.

The front grill is worse than the pics show. Since they seem to be cheap to replace im just gonna replace it.

Front rims are good on the outside but on the inside they are dented pretty badly, im supprised the tire stays on the rim on the right side one.

Whats the correct tire and rim size? The tires says 11-28 i think, that dont seem right becuase when i look at replacement rims they are all 10-28, well most are.

JohnW · 04-04-2012, 08:51 AM

Oh yes i do plan on supporting the whole rear end on both sides when removing the tires/rims. Kind of a no brainer there and there is no way im handling any large parts on this thing without backup at my side lol. So they do have tubes right? I know its an odd question but the whole rim/disk/tire setup is unlike anything ive dealt with before. Im used to rim/tire, thats it.

Take the tires to someone qualified to handle changing them and getting rid of the CL, not that you cannot do it just easier to let a tire shop fight the fight.

Im probably going to change the whole PTO shaft, from what ive been reading its just pulling out the old and sliding in the new.

Best way to go.

Whats an ORC? Why do i need that? Whats it do?

There is a sticky in the Ford forum that does an excellent job of explaining what it is and WHY you need it. Think safety.

What is the proofmeter? whats it suppoed to tell me when its working? I have a thing about all my gauges working.

It is basically a tach/hour meter combination.

Also i have a thing about no leaks.

Leaks are going to be part of owning an old tractor, you can and should take care any you can but know this, OLD TRACTORS don't leak thay mark their territory (read that in someones sig line and loved it)

Whats the correct tire and rim size? The tires says 11-28 i think, that dont seem right becuase when i look at replacement rims they are all 10-28, well most are.

11-28 is the tire size although you can go up to a 12.4-28 if you want. 10-28 is the correct replacement rim size for this tractor. Since you need rims you might consider checking out Miller Tire they sell complete rim and tire sets for this tractor shipped to your door at a very reasonable price. Just an option to consider and I have no connection to them other than as a customer.

RAND81 · 04-04-2012, 09:24 AM

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