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| The Pulling Club Puller Builds and Discussions |
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#1 |
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Proud Member of the 1K Club
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,653
MTF Member # 40653
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Hey Ya'll,
I already posted in the Cub forum but didn't get too much feedback so I decided to post here. I recently picked up a (fairly) complete Cub Cadet 582 for $10.00 from a friend of mine who is a disabled veteran, (I do a-lot of free work for him, only seems right, so he sold it to me for what he had in it, (gas, picked it up off the side of the road)). It has the cast iron creeper gear trans and most of a 16 HP Briggs opposed twin, (missing the intake manifold, carb, and air cleaner assembly). As I was looking at it all I could think was PULLER! I talked to another forum member with prior experience and he told me i needed to strengthen the clutch with a stronger spring and triple wrapped roll pins, need to build a center support bearing for the drive shaft, need belly weight, front weight, loaded tires, wheel weights, a wheelie bar, and a helmet. Pretty much decided not to even mess with the Briggs opposed twin, yank it and drop in a 20 HP Onan with shaved heads turning around 3800 RPM's as soon as I can find a suitable donor engine. I do not want a serious pro stock machine, and will still use the cub for yard tug duty, possibly even mow with it. I want to stay more in a stock/light modified class. Most everyone seems to agree on 26X12X12 tires and Hugh SS/16 was kind enough to send me a link to a really affordable set, but I read somewhere that a tire that big puts you directly into a more serious class. I was thinking maybe a set of 23X9.50X12 or 23X10.50X12 might be a better choice. I know, I need to get in contact with the local club and find out exactly what their rules are but I am just looking for general advice. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joe |
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#2 |
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Senior MTF Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 315
MTF Member # 39591
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off the top of my head, if it has a creeper that must go it will not hold up to pulling much of anything heavy such as a sled, hitch, wheely bars, kill switch, ag tires, heavier clutch set up depending on motor, you dont need the center support if only running 4000 RPM which is most stock class's, decide on a motor, but mainly your biggest step to take first is get the rules and class's for groups around you then set the tractor up to fit into most of those rules for the clubs. we do this around our area so we can run most stock class's for clubs around us and some stock altered(one step above stock)
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#3 |
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Proud Member of the 1K Club
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: ny
Posts: 1,542
MTF Member # 40494
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for starting out keep the motor that u have if it runs good use it.... as said before wheelie bars etc etc....your best bet is to find your local clubs rules and go by those..... yes a 20 hp onan is a great motor but they are rare and heavy... bang for your buck would be a 20hp v twin kohler... as i said before try pulling with your stock motor to make sure your going to like pulling.... then u can still use it as a yard tug mowing etc etc when your not pulling... if your motor has to be replaced then yea do what suits u best but starting out start simple and cheap as possible
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30 sears tractors ranging from a 1966 custom 6 to a 78 gt 19.9, massey ferguson 8, minneapolis 8/10 hybrid |
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#4 |
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Old Fart
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 90
MTF Member # 33908
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Don't do anything until you have the rules in your hand. Some clubs will only allow the original type engine in a stock class puller. Rules can vary pretty widely from one club to another.
Our club's twin cylinder class allows a lot of engine modification but limits the rpm's to 4500. The other club in the area allows very little modification and only allows 4000 rpm's. |
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#5 |
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Junior-Senior Member
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Grab the SS/18 and throw some tires on it.. youll win
__________________
GT_80 Fan Club Member: #0001 Where is everybody? ![]() '78 GT/19.9 Twin, '78 GT/18 Twin, '77 18/6 Twin, '73 SS/16 Twin, '65 Suburban 8 I'm 17 years old, and always looking to learn!
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