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Old 10-18-2011, 04:42 PM   post #31 of 105
jdcrawler
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

The fender on the other side is finished up to where it matches the first fender.




I've decided to go with smooth fender tops and put on step plates made from the diamond plate that I have.
I cut the curved sides off the metal that was the top of the horse trailer.
This leaves me with a nice flat piece to cut the top fender sections from.




This is the one of the sections for the top of the fender.
One edge is bent to form a lip at 90 degrees.
The other edge is bent to form a rolled edge to match the rolled edge on the original fender ends,




The top section is welded in place on one of the fenders.

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1945 John Deere Lindeman ( modified )
1949 Agricat crawler
1947 FMC Bean Cutler ( flat belt drive )
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#230
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#457
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AB01
1953 Bolens Ridemaster 35AB03 ( modified cart )
1937 Shaw Du-All tractor conversion
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:51 PM   post #32 of 105
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

Coming together nicely Ray, I like the way you plugged the cross beam tubes.

Mike
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:48 PM   post #33 of 105
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

Not sure how I missed this thread Ray. That's a sturdy trailer you've got going there, alot of leafsprings. The wheelhouses look sharp!
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:20 PM   post #34 of 105
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

I'm very interested in following this. I haul forklifts for a living, and just find this kind of stuff interesting. Looks really good so far, I have to say I'm impressed with both your design/ fabricating ability, and resourcefulness. I love seeing projects done right with the materials on hand.

My big question is capacity. What does the forklift you have weigh? I've considered buying a used horse trailer like that to build other stuff out of, because those trailers can be found pretty cheap. My problem is most of them have 5 lug, 3,500 lb axles. Those look like six lug axles, which could be 5,200 lb ones. Likewise, do you know what the coupler is rated for?

I'd really love to know more about your forklift. I saw where you said it was homebuilt, and it looks good. How much can it lift? 2wd, or being an old Jeep frame is it 4x4? What type engine/ transmission does it have?

Very cool thread.
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:25 PM   post #35 of 105
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

I've never had my forklift weighed but I would estimate it at around 4,000 pounds.

There wasn't any tag on the trailer that listed the capacity but it does have 6-lug wheels so I figure it has to be a high enough rating for what I need.

They make two grades of this style coupler and they both take a 2 inch ball.
One is rated at 5,000 pounds and the other is rated at 7,000 pounds.
I looked at this style of coupler at the TSC store and the thickness of my coupler looks like it matches the thickness of the 7,000 pound rated coupler.

I really don't know how much my forklift will lift but I have lifted a 1976 Chevy Nova completely off the ground.
It is 4-wheel drive and has the high and low range.
This is the 3ed engine that I've put in it and it is a 4-cylinder marine engine out of a boat.
The engine is the exact same engine that you could get in the Chevy-11 back in 1961 thru 1963.
It has a 350 automatic transmission and an enclosed chain gear reduction to the Jeep transfer case.
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1945 John Deere Lindeman ( modified )
1949 Agricat crawler
1947 FMC Bean Cutler ( flat belt drive )
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#230
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#457
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AB01
1953 Bolens Ridemaster 35AB03 ( modified cart )
1937 Shaw Du-All tractor conversion
"R/T" home made tractor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1aD1wn7yNE
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:44 PM   post #36 of 105
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

At 4,000 lbs, it's light for a forklift. Then again, you probably weren't designing it for lift a lot in a tiny little space. The distance from the front axle and mast to the counterweight should give it a bit more leverage than a similar type industrial forklift. For comparison, most 4-5,000 lb lift capacity forklifts weigh between 8-9,000 lbs. With a trailer rated for 7K (going by the coupler, and that the axles should be at least 3,500 lbs apiece) it sounds like an ideal trailer to move your forklift with. Almost like somebody designed it just for that.

I'm excited to see the finished product. Heck, if you ever wanted to post a few pictures of the forklift I'd love to see those too! What did the mast come off of? Was it a junkyard find? My biggest complaint with average forklifts is they don't work well unless it's a hard packed, fairly dry surface. Seems like you found a pretty good solution!
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:08 PM   post #37 of 105
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The front of the forklift and the lift mast came off an old electric unit.
The lift mast is a two stage unit so it will lift the forks about 12 foot off the ground.

The counterweight on the back is actually the old battery from the electric forklift.
It had a tag on it that said it weighed 1,500 pounds.
I chipped the plastic off the top of the battery and filled the top with concrete so that added about another 100 pounds to it.

I agree that the lift capacity is more because of the leverage created by the distance between the forks and the counterweight than by the weight itself.

The biggest advantage that this has over a regular forklift is that I can work on most any ground and even in snow.

Here is a link to a write up I did earlier on the forklift.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=162016
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1945 John Deere Lindeman ( modified )
1949 Agricat crawler
1947 FMC Bean Cutler ( flat belt drive )
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#230
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#457
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AB01
1953 Bolens Ridemaster 35AB03 ( modified cart )
1937 Shaw Du-All tractor conversion
"R/T" home made tractor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1aD1wn7yNE

Last edited by jdcrawler; 10-19-2011 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:23 PM   post #38 of 105
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I noticed that some of the nuts on the axle mounting U-bolts were rusted badly.
Scrounging thru my supply of U-bolts, I found two matching sets that were the right diameter and the right length but were a half inch wider.
I removed the old U-bolts and mounted up the new ones with a piece of 1/4 inch flat steel on each side of the axle to take up the space.
The original mounting pads had slotted holes so the wider U-bolts still fit thru them.
I went ahead and reused the old pads along with the new pads for extra strength.




After bending one of the old U-bolts a little, I welded it to the trailer tongue.
This can be used to hook a com-along or a tie down chain to.
One of these old U-bolts will also be welded to each side of the frame behind the fenders for use as tie down hooks.




Because I'm going to make this trailer more useable as a utility trailer, I've decided to go ahead and extend the front of the deck so I took it out to where the front of the old horse trailer was on the tongue.




I've also decided to inclose it in some so I built a frame work around the front out of 2 inch square tube and 2 inch angle iron.




There are two sections of angle iron supporting the center of the crossbar.
This will be left open between them for access to the hook on the tongue.




The ends of the upper square tube on the top of the fenders also have a hook built into them for tying stuff down.




The sides are being filled in front of the fenders with rest of the metal left over from the center piece from the top of the horse trailer.




Here's how they look on the inside.




I need to close in the front with some flat metal but the only metal that is left from the top of the trailer are the two curved sides.




The good thing about a sheet metal roller is that it will not only roll a curve into a piece of metal, it will also roll a curve out of a piece of metal.




This is one of the pieces to close in the front.
A lip is bent on the top and bottom edge.
The top edge is bent forward to fit up under the square tube and the bottom lip is bent backward to fit under the deck boards.
The outside edge is also bent back to go around the upright corner post and fit over the leading edge of the side panel.




Here is how the panel looks fastened in place.




I put the tires back on and took it outside to get some shots of how it looks so far.
This gives me a deck area that is 5 foot wide by 9-1/2 foot long.





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1945 John Deere Lindeman ( modified )
1949 Agricat crawler
1947 FMC Bean Cutler ( flat belt drive )
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#230
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#457
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AB01
1953 Bolens Ridemaster 35AB03 ( modified cart )
1937 Shaw Du-All tractor conversion
"R/T" home made tractor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1aD1wn7yNE
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:05 PM   post #39 of 105
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

with the 6 lug hubs and the 6 leaf springs more than likely you got 6k axles, so a 12k GVW is NICE. I would get atleast the 7k coupler or go with a
2 5/16 bulldog coupler

btw LOOKING GOOD
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:16 PM   post #40 of 105
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

Lookin good....
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:22 PM   post #41 of 105
jdcrawler
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89YT12 View Post
with the 6 lug hubs and the 6 leaf springs more than likely you got 6k axles, so a 12k GVW is NICE. I would get atleast the 7k coupler or go with a
2 5/16 bulldog coupler

btw LOOKING GOOD
As I said earlier .. this didn't have a tag that listed the GVW and I've been curious to know just what these were rated at.
So .. last weekend it was very nice here and Marie and I took a long Sunday ride.
We went down to two place by Grand Rapids that sell new and used horse trailers.

Looking at the GVW tags on two horse trailers we found that they range from a low of 5,00 pounds to a high of 6.500 pounds.

With the thickness of the hitch on this and the 6-lug bolt pattern, I'm thinking this is probably around the 6,500 pound rating.
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1945 John Deere Lindeman ( modified )
1949 Agricat crawler
1947 FMC Bean Cutler ( flat belt drive )
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#230
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#457
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AB01
1953 Bolens Ridemaster 35AB03 ( modified cart )
1937 Shaw Du-All tractor conversion
"R/T" home made tractor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1aD1wn7yNE
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:37 AM   post #42 of 105
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

I really enjoy looking at your projects and have them saved in my favorites and i am constantly looking at them for motivation on my projects.

I also want to say thanks for taking the time to post pictures of your progress and talent.

I am curious about when you back the forklift on the trailer , do you have to take the forks off ?? Looks like they would stick to far out the back.

Thanks Again ,

Darrell
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:17 AM   post #43 of 105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moparfanforever View Post
I am curious about when you back the forklift on the trailer , do you have to take the forks off ?? Looks like they would stick to far out the back.
Darrell
Yes, the forks will stick out past the rear of the trailer.
I have some of those plastic orange caution flags that they use on oversize loads.
These flags clip onto a hole in the end of the forks to warn approaching drivers of the forks sticking out.
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1945 John Deere Lindeman ( modified )
1949 Agricat crawler
1947 FMC Bean Cutler ( flat belt drive )
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#230
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AA01 Ser#457
1948 Bolens Ridemaster - 35AB01
1953 Bolens Ridemaster 35AB03 ( modified cart )
1937 Shaw Du-All tractor conversion
"R/T" home made tractor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1aD1wn7yNE
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:38 AM   post #44 of 105
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

Really coming together nicely Ray. That extension on the front of the deck and the top rail not only add to the utility of the trailer but really strengthen the tongue and major stress area. Excellent addition in my opinion. I like the idea of plenty of tie down points.

For making the forks easy for others to see when hauling you might consider adding a trailer plug in to the rear of the trailer. A couple of those magnetic base lights such as wrecker operators use set on the forks could be cheap insurance.

I've got a set of axles that look identical to those you have and they are rated at 6000 pounds. Came off an old trailer house built in the early '50s. Those square, solid steel, axles are way easier to work with than the tube ones.

Mike
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:15 AM   post #45 of 105
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Default Re: Forklift trailer

Nice work Ray! I converted a horse trailer to a utility trailer to haul my Bolens a while back. I did this before I learned to weld and have since enclosed the deck to haul material if I want. Your trailer looks twice as beefy as mine though. Looking forward to updates.
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