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Old 01-17-2011, 03:23 PM   post #1 of 20
GT_80
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Default Copper exhaust

Anyone ever used copper tubing for exhaust? soldered it together? only downfall I could see is that maybe the solder would get too hot, but how hot is a small engine's exhaust? I was just brainstorming for the Super12 custom exhaust I wanna do...
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:27 PM   post #2 of 20
evo803
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

IMHO plain solder would not hold up to the heat or vibration , silver solder might have a chance. Could you braze it ?
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:11 PM   post #3 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

Copper discolors when exposed to heat or water, so it would look really nice but only for a short time.
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:34 PM   post #4 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

Copper will work fine if you silver braze pipe into connector. The elbows will not hold up very well. I did this years ago on a Wheel Horse. It does sound good. If you choose to use copper, get Silfos from someone in the HVAC business. It does not require flux on copper to copper. I use 15% because it flows better. Mapp gas torch will work but is slow. Oxy-Acetylene works well but you have to be careful not to burn through metal.
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Old 01-17-2011, 05:35 PM   post #5 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

Cool idea. Wonderin if you could incorporate a copper muffler into it? I've built steel mufflers for some of my tractors but the copper idea seems worth a try. I don't think it would get so hot that it would melt decent solder
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Old 01-17-2011, 05:55 PM   post #6 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

I had a 1951 Ford Pk Up that my dad and I put 1 1/2" to 3" copper exhaust on back in the 60s. Stepped it up from 1 1/2 to 3 in a couple of steps. Made a Wye for it just behind fire wall and went to the back dual from there. With that Flat Head and 3" copper exhaust I could rattle the windows in my home town taking off or downshifting.(Needless to say copper was way cheaper then) I posted here earlier about a Sears Compact 8E that I was going to redo and make it a hot rod. I plan on using copper for the exhaust and dueling it to come out under the back wheels. I will do the same thing and make a Wye ( if I can remember how my dad did it) to go into the dual. I will use Silver Solder on the copper and I will use black iron pipe from the motor to under the tractor. It can be done. As was said try not to use a lot of copper els as they will tend to degrade especially close to the motor. Good luck & show us if you do. When I get to working on mine I will post its progress.
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:26 PM   post #7 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

i've never saw it done before... you could braze it but i dont kno if it would hold honestly.... what about metal conduit? itd be cheaper and you could bend it yourself
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:51 PM   post #8 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

Put on a small fitting on the end of the exhaust of my WH210-5, to get direct the exhaust flow away from the hood support. Close enough to the end of the pipe, so I could use a small self threading screw. Then painted it black.
Serves it's intended purpose.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:00 PM   post #9 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

Have you priced out copper pipe lately ?? Its HIGH !!

Scrap yard is paying $3.70 a pound (Todays Price)
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:04 PM   post #10 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

Aluminum melts ~1100F-1300F depending on the alloy.

60/40 solder melts ~ 500-600F

15% silver solder melts in the 1300F range if I remember correctly.

45% silver solder melts at a higher temp. and Brazing rod is higher still I think.

One option woulb be o use brass fittings coming off the engine going to copper or continuing with brass.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:08 PM   post #11 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

Harris makes an excellent fifteen percent braze for copper.I really don't think soft solder would hold up due to the low melting point.Use ACR or type L copper to prevent the copper from having stress fractures from vibration.Commercial refrigeration unit vibrate alot and set up harmonics.No problem if you use the types mentioned.A copper exhaust isn't a bad ideal at all!The number in the braze indicates how much silver is in it.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:19 PM   post #12 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

My dad used brazing rod and silfloss to put the pipes together. We did have one joint come apart. It was because the silfloss didn't penetrate as it should. Dad said it was because he didn't heat it enough. I had the exhaust on for over a year and a half and 5 tickets. That's when I had to take it off. Once silfloss has been heated it's melting point is heightened. (so I am told) I would think that as the exhaust exits away from the small engine the heat would be disapated enough to make the use possible. IMHO. I used to have a picture of the rear of my pickup showing the exhaust. It does turn it dark but it did sound good.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:57 PM   post #13 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

You could fabricate a steel exhaust,

Then make an exact copy of it in copper only bigger to cover the entire exhaust.

Steel exhaust would fit inside the copper one.

No worries about heat or structural problems and no discoloration.

Honda goldwings did this with chrome exhaust outer shell, and basic steel inside, so they would not turn blue from the heat or incorrect jetting mixtures.
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Old 01-17-2011, 08:35 PM   post #14 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

i think i was only considering it cause i saw nice smooth corners on a website and thought it would look cool. I have 1 1/2" conduit i am planning on using, but I don't have a bender for it, and I think making the whole stack out of black pipe looks wierd. I want to use a 2" nipple off the motor and make the rest of the pipe in one piece- out the head, 90, about 20" straight, then turn out at top. Like I said I just don't have a pipe bender for conduit
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Old 01-17-2011, 08:51 PM   post #15 of 20
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Default Re: Copper exhaust

i think the copper would look cool once it got hot and weathered
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