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Re-lining brake band question (SS12)

13K views 20 replies 16 participants last post by  ranchkingron 
#1 ·
I got the material to re-line my brake band from McMaster Carr and am wondering what the best way to attach it to the band would be? Being a saddle maker I have several sizes of stainless rivets but I dont know if I should to rivit it on, or to use adheasive? Also if I use adheasive what would be the best to kind to use? Thanks, Litz
 
#2 ·
Liquid Nails makes construction glue that i think would rival most of the strongest glues i have ever seen! Not sure how it would work-- some people have glued and riveted these on and if they have holes for rivets, i would follow suit
 
#4 ·
The original brake bands used brass rivets to minimize brake drum wear. Today you might consider aluminum rivets. After you punch or pop the rivets through from the brake liner side, you then peen or hammer them flat on the back side.

Note to self. Remember when peening or hammering rivet from backside. Place a socket, punch or something on the front side of the rivet so you have something to hammer against. This way avoid hammering rivet back through by mistake.
 
#5 ·
The original brake bands used brass rivets to minimize brake drum wear. Today you might consider aluminum rivets. After you punch or pop the rivets through from the brake liner side, you then peen or hammer them flat on the back side.

Note to self. Remember when peening or hammering rivet from backside. Place a socket, punch or something on the front side of the rivet so you have something to hammer against. This way avoid hammering rivet back through by mistake.
Yeap what he said....:fing32: Stainless would be hard on the drum.


Who needs brakes anyhow....This tractor needs a new lining but have not got to yet.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=127575
 
#6 ·
I drilled and countersunk my original brake band lining..and used aluminum pop rivets and sonme "goop" stuff to glue it on--it was in perfect shape,other than having come unglued from the steel band..I didn't peen the rivets on the back side,didn't see a need too..the brake lining is fragile so use care when you drill it..

I just used a hand powered drill to do it,and all it took to countersink the holes was a larger bit just a bit bigger than the rivet heads,twisted by hand with NO drill,to remove just enough to let the rivets sit about halfway down into the lining..doubt I'll ever need to reline it or wear it down,to the point the rivets touch..
 
#13 ·
I got my band re-lined. Came out good. I used the same copper rivets that I use in my saddle shop for repair work and JB weld. (first I chucked the rivits in my drill press and turned down the head using an old horse shoeing rasp, drilled the new lining and countersunk the rivits into the lining a bit, applyed JB weld and rivited it together. It came out good.) Thank all you guys for your help/advice! Litz
 
#14 ·
Hey I am in the process of relining my tractors breaks when I found this thread, I have a few questions maybe you can help me with. I was wondering If you used the Non metallic brake material or the semimetal woven material from McMaster Carr, and were you able to easily bend it around the brake band, how Tough was it to drill through? Thanks.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Old thread, I know but I used these rivets from mcmaster carr, worked great got em for my old DB stuff but they work on later Ropers too

mcmCarr number
97451A652

I first tried copper pop rivets but they leave the steel ball at the end of the shaft in, and I thought it would soon gouge the drum so I switched to these brass ones

dlis, I used semi metallic, don'r remember why, maybe that was all they had in the width, thickness that I needed.
I heated it up wound it around the hot hub and clamped it until it cooled, might be better ways, but that's what I did
 
#16 ·
I was going to reline a couple of bands myself as well. I bought brass rivets and friction material from McMaster Carr. I stopped proceding when I saw that the material was twice as thick as the original and upon intial trials it didn't seem to want to conform to the original band's tight radius without cracking. Is there a different material that I missed, or will the thicker material work with some perseverance?
 
#19 ·
Countersink the brass rivits from the inside.But first cut the band,a tad long,and slowly bend it in the shoe and clamp everthing around the drum overnite.The stuffs pertty tough.There's a contact glue sold at Ace hardware----starts with a "p"--can't remember!!****--Anyway,you put it on both pieces,let it dry,then re-apply to one side,then re-clamp it around the drum.I did the clamp,and gule up first,then went back,drilled,countersunk and rivited--works,and looks like it came from Sears!!:trink40:
 
#20 ·
Re: replacing brakes SS16

Hey all , so how do I go about removing the rear/trans to replace the brake band? I bought a new one and a great used one on ebay and from an overstock of new/old stock. but without some instruction I am nto going to just start pulling stuff apart. are there any good instructions or manuals or
both?

thanks!
 
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