My Tractor Forum banner

My snow plow issues

4K views 35 replies 9 participants last post by  Fla Don 
#1 ·
I just bought a plow for my 16G this year and I repainted it, not the right color. I will remedy this at a future date. To all you Gravely enthusiasts with the rider snow plow, can I drill two new holes in the middle plow braces to get more ground clearance. I have a steep driveway where it meets the street and need a couple of more inches (No laughing) of lift.
 
#3 ·
You don't want to raise the rear or middle of the plow frame. You actually would need to lower the rear to get the blade higher. The closer the frame is to tractor chassis, the less lift you will get. Or are you talking about just moving the blade itself up?
 
#4 ·
Lack of blade ground clearance with the plow in the up position is one of the biggest (and most obvious) design flaws of the Gravely rider, IMO. With all the experience we have on this site maybe someone has come up with, or has seen a practical solution? I'd love to see it if it's out there!
 
#6 ·
It's only a design flaw if you have a hill with a steep angle of attack, but that can be a problem for a lot of automobiles as well.

Relocating the plow on the existing frame might gain an inch, not much more, and has a number of issues to overcome.

Designing a set of offset axle brackets could maybe gain an inch.

No matter how steep a grade is, it is always better to transition into it rather than having an abrupt angle - I might consider some driveway improvements if it was mine.

Sheldon
 
#7 ·
Fla Don, that is exactly what I'm talking about. If you look at the large pin that runs through the two holes in the blade supports. If my theory is correct I can drill two identical holes approx. 2-3 inches lower (not looking at plow now) and this will give me that much clearance off the ground. It appears that the stop will still hit the reinforced plate on the back of the blade. I will try to take pics tomorrow to show you guys what I mean. I really don't want to start drilling if you guys can think of a reason this won't work that I have not thought of.
 
#8 ·
The only things I can think that might give you a problem is that it may render the snow blade safety springs useless and making sure the plow will go low enough when you are done.
 
#12 · (Edited)
20" tires are available....no need to change the wheels. Carlisle Turfmasters come in a 20x8-8.

A 2 ply Turfmaster 18x6.50-8 has an OD of 17.2"

A 2 ply 20x8-8 has an OD of 19.1"

That will net nearly one additional inch of clearance.
 
#11 ·
We need photos!!!

I was at the local tractor dealer Wednesday, they had a Kubota blade, very similar to the Gravely one I have that I do not know what it fits.

ANYWAY, the Kubota frame is bent about 18" from the blade!!

This causes the frame to be close to the ground at that bend point when the blade is down, but gives much more lift height.
 
#15 ·
If I remember correctly you are not mowing with this tractor correct? I do not think that 20" tires will clear the front of a mower, even on a long frame. I know that 18" will not clear on a short frame.

Anyone with a long frame want to chime in???
 
#27 ·
The ideal solution would be to get a go kart hub, 4on4 rims and convert. The tricky part is maintaining the same wheel track as stock.

Somewhere around here I have a CAD drawing for 4 on 4 hub made by Martin wheel but the problem is that Martin has never sold any 4 on 4 hubs for a 3/4" spindle.

I suppose one could reduce the diameter of the rear tires but that gets pricey.
 
#29 ·
My test ones started as go-kart 4-bolt hubs. You do not want to go that way even on the 3/4" ones. They require machining to move the bearing in. Gravely uses a short spindle compared to a go-kart. Mine do not use a seal at the rear but instead use a close fitting washer. Fill the cap with grease and install. Grease gets forced out the rear like the steel seals on the mowers.

Mod 2.0 will keep the washer but change to machined solid blocks of 2" round stock for the hub center. With a 3/8" steel plate for the wheels to bolt to. Also will include a grease fitting so they are easy to take care of.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Speaking of tires and wheels, the cheapest place I have found for new 4 hole rims is recstuff.com. You might have to paint the rims as white rims are sometimes sold out but that isn't too bad. Wipe them down with lacquer thinner to removed the gloss and paint them white. They also have galvanized.

They have 8x3.75 8x5.375 and 8x7 rims.

Prices range from $8.20 to $12.60 each.

http://recstuff.com/8-Inch-Trailer-Wheels.aspx




If you want to dress up your tractor they also have wheel covers for about $10



Not sure how well they would fit but a chrome center cap may be a possibility for $4

Chrome lug nuts would work!



Pimp the tractor! Add some bling!

:sidelaugh

We could have a contest. :thThumbsU Some categories might be:
Most ostentatious
Most tasteful
Best Hot Rod theme
etc.
 
#30 ·
NTN makes a tapered roller bearing that features an integral seal. It is actually pretty cool. I will take some pictures or the one I have around here and post them.
 
#31 ·
#32 ·
Close but not quite. The distance on the spindle is a tight 3". You then have to subtract for the washer and or spacer on the rear. Those would shove the front bearing a minimum of 1/2" on to the threaded section of the spindle. Actual amount would be about 9/16" or 5/8" which is too much.
 
#33 · (Edited)
I forgot something. The spare spindle I have is for a 24G. That is why it is 4" long. Not sure what the regular gravely spindle measures. :fing20:

Anyway I think the Martin would fit on the Gravely 4" spindle (with threads the spindle measures about 5"). The bearing outside face to bearing outside face distance of the Martin hub is 3.03 inches. The seal needs .5 inches for seal surface. That means that there is 1/2" left over that will have to be filled with another spacer.
 
#34 ·
That does make a difference. The 8000 series spindle measures 3" on the smooth and 4.25" total from the support.You also need to make the rear spacer for the seal 9/16" so that the hub doesn't hit the support. So front spacer could be 3/8" with a couple washers, 1 for 3/4" and one for 5/8" under the nut.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top