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I built a Mid Mount grader blade for my 140

15K views 24 replies 16 participants last post by  beabruin 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,
PA318GUY said I should post some pics, so..., The best I know how to do here is post the link to my off site. The first is before adding the scarifier. The second is after. It's been frozen, now too wet to really try it but it should do what I want. My linkages do not allow for downpressure, I thought about adding hooks for weight behind blade. I want to wait and see how it performs first..
http://www.use.com/Mid_mount_grader_blade_for_John_Deere_140H3_9d58cf5108e9df16fadf
http://www.use.com/Mid_Mount_grader_blade_with_Scarifier_a8a32680c4bb2b8e6812
 
#10 ·
Since you already provided a link to the images, I opened up the link. I right clicked on the picture and selected "copy image location" and then came back to the forum page. In the reply box, you will see a yellow box with a mountain and a sun. Click on it, and paste the link in, and the image will appear in your post. Basically, if you have the link to the picture, you just have to surround the link with
.

example (remove quotes):

"
"

Hope this helps!
 
#14 · (Edited)
Looks good. Did you build it from scratch or adapt it from another use?

Another idea you might use for down-force... come off the side of your support bracket with a could of bolts, or even weld some plates on... when you need down-force, stand on them.:dunno: This would be a way to custom vary the amount of down-force up to your weight. Just an idea to consider since space above and behind your blade might be limited to add weight.

EDIT: Wouldn't it look better in JD Green?:thThumbsU
 
#22 ·
Hey Guys, a quick update-- I had a break in the weather the other day, and decided to try it out. I was well pleased with the performance. A concern is ground clearance in the "Carry" position, but if careful it's workable. On the down pressure question, I agree with Alan_Heist on the foot plate idea. I think it is the handiest way to vary the pressure. Standing on the blade it semi dangerous on the side closest to the rear tire, but I think the danger can be minimized if footplates/footrests(?) are welded to the top of the blade on each side. Good Thought! Also I'm considering JD Yellow:fing32:
 
#15 ·
Thanks Alan, To Answer.., I had an old Simplicity blade that I was never going to use, cut it down, removed the angle mount/bracket, remounted it , found some steel, used the hangers from a 318 deck(which wouldn't work on the 140), fit everything together. The cutting edge is soft steel at this point(until my local Bobcat type can find a used piece of one), which is another reason for the scarifier, Hung it off etc. Did all with a 4.5" grinder with cutting wheels, and my Hobart 140 MIG.
Clearance is an issue, but small weights will clear on the back in vertical, but I only gain 20-30lbs. I may weld some foot pedals or some such on, but not wild about the idea. I have seen guys do footrests on the blade itself, but when angled, that is pretty close to a turning tire w/chains. The mount is pretty rigid, so varying the weight one side to the other isn't gonna help much as far as tilt goes , and I really planned on level cutting. The tilt option would be nice for some applications, but there are other methods/tricks to make that happen. I really just wanted to regrade my lane.
 
#17 ·
Thanks for all the kind words. It's not so fantastic, but in my experience a belly grader is much more forgiving than a front mount, or even a boxblade, however it has its limitations. I see in the Pittsburgh, western PA. area CL and Pennswoods ads, a fella has a Wheel Horse mid mount and he is asking $425. If I couldn't build one, I'd consider paying that.., for awhile...,then figure something else out.
 
#20 ·
Thanks, Yes they just kinda float along, my 140 does have a float position on the implement control, but that isn't what I mean. If the front tires go over some holes or rougher spots the blade takes them out and levels them before the critical back tires hit 'em. Unlike a front or rear blade.
 
#23 ·
Very nice work! I can see that being very useful.:thThumbsU

If you don't mind me asking. How thick is the blade material?

Thanks for all the pictures.
 
#24 ·
The blade steel is only 1/8", I think, but it isn't soft, as the new ones are. Plus I think that thickness isn't really critical as it is really a sluice or gutter for moving the gravel,dirt, whatever away. The work get's done by the cutting bit and the scarifiers. here is some friction, yes, but it'll take quite awhile to wear holes in it. Don't get me wrong, thicker would be better, but it's what I had. Would've been nice if I would've had an old Gravely blade or something, more weight also.
 
#25 ·
Very nicely done. It will look even better in JD Yellow.
 
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