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Simplicity 17 GTH-L keeps shutting off

5K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  flavo cadillac 
#1 ·
My simplicity has been running great and out of no where is shutting off.
What is happening is I can get it to start like normal and then it will shut off in an electrical manner after 5 seconds or so. Meaning it doesn't sputter or anything, just dies. It won't start right back up. I need to wait 15-30 seconds, then I hear a click behind the dash and it will start and die all over again. And the cycle continues.

I assume this is an easy fix I just need to know what to replace.
Thanks for the help,
Mike.
 
#4 ·
sounds like it's still a break or something that I have not found. Just figured I would update in case someone has a different idea.

I have checked the wiring visually pretty thoroughly. The clicking is coming from the circuit breaker that is between the amp meter and the solenoid. Also the amp meter is pegged to the side while running. The tractor will do the same sequence of events even if not running and the key turned to the on position.

Is a visual inspection the only way to check for a bad wire in this scenario? Also do you still think that is a bad ground or broken wire? Should I disconnect all the grounds and clean them up?
 
#5 ·
Get a wiring diagram and trace every wire with a multimeter. As you go, check them off on your diagram so you know you've done them. Take nothing for granted.

Also, if your ignition switch has a removable connector, remove it and clean the contacts well with some contact cleaner. Remove the negative battery terminal first though.

My last wiring issue was a 2" piece of wire, which was broken in the middle. Would never have thought it could be bad, until I tested it with a meter.
 
#7 ·
I have had an ignition switch on one tractor do this and a coil module on the flywheel on another tractor do this. I agree with checking each wire with multi meter. Put the meter on one end of the wire being tested and the meters other lead onto the other end of same wire. Check the resistance of the wire. It should be low. If you find one that is higher it could have a few strands broken internally or at the wire connector. If all checks out good then you most likely have a problem with one of the components that the wires connect to. Good luck
 
#8 ·
The breaker is tripping because of an overload. You need to find the short or bad component. I would disconnect the battery, then put an ohmmeter on the breaker terminal and measure resistance to ground. If it's low, you have a short to ground, and need to isolate the bad circuit.

You don't say which way the meter is pegged - it makes a difference. If it's to the discharge side, that makes sense for a short to ground.

It's possible, as mentioned already, that the ignition switch is shorted internally to ground. Use your meter, after removing the connector on the switch, to test it for shorts to ground when in the "on" position.
 
#9 ·
For some reason I am really not into doing electrical work. It drives me crazy. I finally pulled the tractor up from the bottom of the hill and started to try and test wires. Although I don't really know how to use my multimeter. I just put it on the sound setting and checked a few wires that way.
I did find that the connector that attaches the ignition to the 5 wires in the wiring harness had melted. When I put power to the key I could feel warmth at the connector and back of the switch.
Would this indicate a faulty ignition switch? Is there a way to test the switch w/ my multimeter? Or could it still be a bad ground somewhere that is manifesting at the ignition switch.

Thanks for the help again. :howdy:

By the way, to answer a previous question. When I put the key to the on position the volt meter pegs all the way to the left or the - position.
 
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