Hey everyone! My names Marc. I have a Simplicity LTH 12.5 with a 38" deck. Its most likely a 1990 model. How many people are still running ones this old everyday? I will be using it some for a little lawn business this year. I had seen a leaf mulch kit for this model. Does anyone know if it is effective? Also did they make a grass mulching cover for this tractor? The model # is 1691886 if that helps. Thanks in advance! I can't wait to read more about our tractors!
I have a 1990 12.5 LTH with the Vanguard V-twin. I also have a 1991 12.5 LTH with a blown engine for parts. I picked it up used in 1994 and it still runs like a top.
I've used it for cutting my acre, snow plowing, and hauling firewood and yard waste. I bought a Conquest in 2005, so the 12.5 LTH is my back up, but still gets a lot of use.
I use it mostly for cutting my neighbors field,
(2 1/2 acres )and mini brush hogging. LOL
All I can tell you is I've beat the crap out of this thing and it still runs great.
Kevin, nice mower! Looks just like ours! It still cuts great, its in the shop getting the carb adjusted but the dealer said he hasn't seen one that nice in quite sometime. Do you know if they make a mulch plug for it?
I have the same tractor and I would like to do some maintanence myself. I've changed the engine oil, air filter, adjusted valves and sharpened the blades past weekend. I'd like to change the transmission oil now.
Can someone guide me where the drain is? Is there something to watch out for?
I understand the fill oil is straight 30W non-detergent oil. Thanks for any help, I'd like to have this tractor for long time to come.:thanku:
Hmmm, no reply on the transmission oil change. I wonder if anyone even has done this on this model.
I decided to look into the valve clearances on my tractor a few weekends ago. I was looking for gap of 0.005 inch on cold engine but found almost no gap on both valves on one cylinder and similar on one valve on the other cyclinder.
Got out the 13mm wrench with allen wrench and got 4 adjusted to 0.0045 inch. Verdict? I mowed my lawn and the tractor felt stronger with less hesitation between throttle changes. And when PTO is engaged there is less rpm drop(by listening) and it seems less fuel thirsty. All in all 1 hour well spent!
The hood was a bugger to get back on by myself, it would have helped to have a helper put in the plastic washer while another person is holding the hood off of the metal spindle. But is was managed : )
I know Kevin above still uses his plus my self and mlayman27. But this may be the exception? Have others from this vintage gone to pasture? We need to generate some momentum behind the LTH owners : )
I can't help with the tranny oil change...because I've never changed mine or know how to.
Mine works well, but I did have a problem once. I thought it was the tranny, but it was because the brake pedal did not retract all the way. After some oiling of the linkages and areas around the pedal, it worked fine.
Hi Kevin,
Thanks for the reply. I noticed that after mowing the oil I can see in the transmission reservoir is not all clean - quick swipe on clean paper towel show greyness. I picked up several quarts of non-detergent oil and will tackle the fluid change. There has to be simple method as there is reservoir and a return tube. Hmmm..,
Marc and Tonyx :Welcome1:. I can't help you out with the hydro oil change. I have a 1981 4211 that is still running strong, but it is a 5 speed. Sometimes I wish it was a hydro. Keep those machines maintained and they will run a long, long time. :trink39:
If the hydro unit is still sealed properly and hasn't been terribly overheated, there's likely little need to change the fluid. I've seen hydro's last nearly forever with the oil that they were shipped with. I've seen others that's been changed destroyed in a year because they introduced contaminants when they changed the oil out.
Ok, I changed the hydro oil over the weekend on my 12.5 LTH. I now understand why it's not common procedure : )
I drove the tractor backwards onto car ramps to get better look. There were no drain plug of any kind, but I did see hose from bottom side going back to front mounted reservoir. It's white plastic nipple with 1" hex on it. I loosen that out and out came the original hydro oil, all 1.1L of it.
That was the easy part. After reassembly, carefully so no contaminants get in, I tried to fill the reservoir with new oil but it didn't take. There was no natural drain to the transmission nor was there self priming action to suction the oil into transmission. I ended up injecting the new oil using the large syringe used for 2 cycle oil/gas mixing.
Fill up the syringe with new oil, insert the tip into the bottom hole in the reservoir and inject. Repeat ten times to fill up the system. During the process you can see the old oil squirting through the return line as new oil is injected into the system. There was night and day difference in color where the new oil was honey color, the old oil was dark brown. If nothing else, it made me feel better to have done the change.
Update on the trans oil change and a tip:
Used 30W non-detergent oil per manual and it was ok. Clearly the draining procedure does not get all the oil out of the system. After using the tractor for awhile the oil color changes as it mixes with stagnant oil in the trans.
Reading other posts who found improvement using modern oil with 20W-50 synthetic, I drained the oil again. Same process and used 20W-50 synthetic, Valvoline. I didn't notice any difference, sound(whine) still the same going up hill but at least I feel better having better oil in there.
Tip I found. After several hot mowing sessions, I noticed the engine would run-on after shutdown. I poured in 1/3 container of Seafoam into 4gal fuel. This cured the run-on. I'd imagine the fuel is cooking in the carburator near the hot engine and causing varnishing to build up.
I use Seafoam on all my small engine equipment with great results.
I just re-read my earlier post from Aug 2009. It's been almost 4 years since then, seem like good time to change the hydrostatic fluid just for good measure. I plan to go back to straight 30W due to non-detergent aspect of that oil.
The 20W-50 Valvoline is showing dark brown/black in color now - it's easy for me as there is translucent oil reservoir in the engine bay.
I found an easy way to change the hydro fluid on my 12.5LTH. Here is what I did over the weekend:
1 - warm up the fluid by driving around a bit
2 - open front hood for access to the reservoir
3 - there are 2 hoses connected to the reservoir, hose A at the bottom, hose B connected to side of the reservoir
4 - disconnect both and place hose B to the bottom nipple of reservoir
5 - connect hose A to a vacuum source - MityVac(used for auto brake bleeding) is what I used
6 - keep reservoir filled with fresh oil and draw out old fluid through the vacuum device
In normal operation hose A is connected to a port at the bottom side of the transmission. Hose B to the top side. What I did was used that circuit to draw out the old fluid from bottom and let the new fluid fill in from the top. Using this method there is no need to burp the transmission as there is no air introduced during the fluid change.
I did the fluid change with 30W oil twice, once before and once after hauling 4000lbs of mulch. I plan to do this once a year as it's so simple to do.
I think I would like to do this in my 12.5 LTH. Can anyone recommend a lower cost fluid evacuation pump than the mighty mac since it will be rarely used.
Just joined "mytractorforum" at the suggestion of a friend & found your group. I have a Simplicity with a the Vanguard 12.5 & I am looking for someone who has worked on the starter. Was wondering if I have to pull the whole starter to change the nylon drive gear. this is the roll-pin type. If I have to take starter out, HOW--there must be a trick to getting that 2nd starter bolt out.
I am going to see an LTH 12.5 today. Anything in particular that I should pay attention to? I want to use it to mow a 3/4 hilly property, haul a cart with firewood uphill and dethatch. Will it be able to handle that? Thank you.
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