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318 lock out valave

6K views 30 replies 15 participants last post by  SonnyT 
#1 ·
Is there any other suppliers for the valve than deere? I just priced it on their website and its over 90 bucks with tax....... I saw one on ebay for about half that, but was wondering if anyone had a part number that would work from a place like Mcmaster Carr or Surplus Center.
 
#4 ·
Anyone have a link for these $30 ones? I keep seeing the one for about $43. Also, I need one for a 317. I'm assuming it would be the same?
 
#5 ·
I was looking on the Mcaster Carr website and found these, rated for 2000 psi I think might do the trick. http://www.mcmaster.com/#flow-control-needle-valves/=eltn58 I think I can use one to do the flow control I need to slow down my angle cylinder and another to lockout the rockshaft, both together are cheaper than 1 on eBay and Mcaster Carr's stuff is usually very good quality.
 
#7 ·
Yeah, that seems pretty reasonable, especially since it comes with the extra fitting that's probably $5 anyway. I'll probably rise to the bait on that one soon.
 
#8 ·
All you need is a 1/8" Parker Flow Control valve and a 1/8" Male to Female
45 degree adapter. I used to buy the valve from surplus center for less than $15.

Auto part Fuel line Pipe



GotDeeres
 
#12 ·
All you need is a 1/8" Parker Flow Control valve and a 1/8" Male to Female
45 degree adapter. I used to buy the valve from surplus center for less than $15.

View attachment 179395


GotDeeres

GotDeeres: how did you go about installing your remote shutoff valve? I have a JD 322 I'm wanting to install the valve on, and I'm having a problem with getting enough room to work with.

Mine is on so tight and there is so little room under there to get a long wrench on to work with.

I've decided to try a gas line wrench this weekend and see if that might help with the leverage. In between that time, I'm soaking the fitting with Seafoam Deep Creep, and I hope to put some freeze rust penetrant on the fitting this evening.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, aux-hyd.com also has the remote shutoff valves for now. They even have the 1/4 turn valves - of which I purchased for my JD 322.

WC
 
#10 ·
Blown 67,

I have a couple in my shop. I will check the part number tomorrow. It is a Parker PF-200 I believe. :rolleyes: Funny, but I can remember a part number, but keep forgetting my wife's name. :duh:
 
#11 ·
Well I went ahead and ordered 2 from Mcaster Carr, they were 20.39 each, and are the same ones being sold on eBay for 42.99 except these are steel and the eBay ones are brass, and this comes from the manufacturer of the valve: "Brass valves are ideal for water and have a brass needle. Steel valves are ideal for hydraulic oil and have a stainless steel needle". I bought 2, one for my rockshaft and another to slow down my angle cylinder on the blade, but I should have looked closer, the misfit cylinder on my blade has 1/4" NPT and not 1/8' NPT like the original cylinders have so either I need a couple reducing fittings or I have a spare...

 
#13 ·
Well I went ahead and ordered 2 from Mcaster Carr, they were 20.39 each, and are the same ones being sold on eBay for 42.99 except these are steel and the eBay ones are brass, and this comes from the manufacturer of the valve: "Brass valves are ideal for water and have a brass needle. Steel valves are ideal for hydraulic oil and have a stainless steel needle". I bought 2, one for my rockshaft and another to slow down my angle cylinder on the blade, but I should have looked closer, the misfit cylinder on my blade has 1/4" NPT and not 1/8' NPT like the original cylinders have so either I need a couple reducing fittings or I have a spare...

WHY DO YOU WANT TO SLOW DOWN YOUR ANGLE CYLINDER?
 
#14 ·
WHY DO YOU WANT TO SLOW DOWN YOUR ANGLE CYLINDER?
The angle cylinder that is on my blade is not an original setup, a previous owner put a smaller volume cylinder in place of the correct one, it will go from full angle to opposite full angle in less than 1 second flat, literally.



The flow control valves I bought are dual directional so I can dial down the flow to the cylinder to a speed that I am happy with.

And I may have jumped the gun saying the quality of Mcaster Carrs stuff, after I took the pic of the valve for this thread I saw the markings on the left hand side and looked at the threaded hole in the end and sure enough its oblong, but they are sending me a new one and are even giving me the bigger size I need for my misfit cylinder.

 
#21 ·
The angle cylinder that is on my blade is not an original setup, a previous owner put a smaller volume cylinder in place of the correct one, it will go from full angle to opposite full angle in less than 1 second flat, literally.
LOL- for some reason the mental image is quite funny to me. You could just "fling" the snow!

I will second Aux-Hyd for parts. Got my H2 kit from him. Good guy- very helpful too.
 
#15 ·
I see now, id want the cylinder to go fast but not that fast, i am in the process of finding a lock cylinder for my 317 rockshaft so my blade angles faster. it goes slow for a second that speeds up. the 317 cylinder is hard to get to unlike the 318. so i believe it will be harder to rig up. im gonna swing by a hydro shop after work in a bit and see what they have, is the fittings off our rockshaft cylinders 1/4 or 3/8?
 
#17 ·
WIndcatcher,

I forgot to mention that removing the existing JIC fitting is a real PITA. :1336: I finally took about a 1/2 or 9/16 box end wrench and slipped it over the JIC male fitting. Then I used it to turn the fitting. The JIC threads do get a little damaged, but worst case you need to replace it. I also forgot to mention that you will need a 1/8 close nipple for the cylinder to the 45 female elbow. CRS strikes again. :duh:

The valve I was using was a Parker PF2 Flow Control valve. I called Surplus Center and they no longer sell them.

GotDeeres
PS I put No-Seize on the fittings when I reassembled them.
 
#18 ·
I'm gonna try to put the lock out valve on my 317 Tommorow. I might need and elbow also. I made mention to my dad what I wanted to do and what I needed. He told me to hold on, he came back from the garage with a box. In side I found about 20 brand new 1/8inch NPT ball valves rated for hudraulic fluid and 2200psi. So I will be installing one tommorow!:thThumbsU
 
#19 ·
I got mine from this website and did his remote lock out valve near my choke. Now I can reach down on the seat and turn it off or on.

http://www.aux-hyd.com/ Under product section, make & model, JD, 300 series, 318, rear lock out kit.

Came with the hoses, valve etc..

I like it.
 
#22 ·
Hey Blown
looking at the mount for your blade a large part of the problem is that the end of the angle cylinder is WAY too close to the center of the bracket. On the OEM JD mount the cylinder is actually mounted to the goofy hole nearer to the bottom of the picture. I just fnished strengthening the new replacement bracket on mine. It will rip that chunk of metal out the first time the blade hooks on ANYTHING. Didn't know any better when I got my first blade and learned the hard way. Dumb A$$ idea they have there.
If you search "WHERE USED" for part # AM31369 on the JDPC web site you will see there is an actual bracket to attach the cylinder and the cylinder attachment bolt is moved much further out. Agreed your cylinder is small but I will bet that moving it out to the correct position will help a ton. It looks about the right length anyways. You could try it by putting a 1/2" bolt in temporarily and trying it with the blade up off the ground and see if it helps for sure. Just don't use the blade with the cylinder attached to that hole without the correct bracket at least.
 
#24 ·
Agreed, i never noticed that the cylinder was mounted that close!!
if you have enough travel on your cylinder, move the mounting hole out farther away from the pivot, that should slow down the pivot of the blade. and would be a better idea than to cut the flow of fluid. because then if you go to angle the blade with out of snow in front of it, it might not have enough hydraulic pressure to move the blade because of the restricted flow with your valve

good luck
 
#23 ·
figured i would post a few pics of my lockout valve i just installed on my 317.

my dad gave me a whole box of brand new 1/8" npt ball valves.
if i get the ok from him that he dont need them, i can send one to whoever so they can do the lockout for free. but anyways here is the valve installed with a 90* elbow off the cylinder. valve works great!
 

Attachments

#25 ·
I am in the process of looking for the correct cylinder and brackets, And its going to take a little more than a 1/2 bolt, the pins that have been welded on are 1" diameter and there is 1/4 plate welded top and bottom of the plow mount supporting them, so I'm pretty confident its not going anywhere for now, I agree with how close to center it is now, but I dont want to cut it apart to weld it back together with the wrong parts. I would rather just wait till I find the proper brackets and cylinder and do it the right way, If I am to move the pin over I will have to destroy the original mounting holes and make even more work for myself. Thank you for the suggestions though. Snow is due here tomorrow, 8 inches, looks like I may have to use the little L100 with the blower for a while longer.
 
#26 ·
#27 ·
Does the lock out valve keep the rock shaft in position as it is when the valve is closed? I have a box blade attached and it will still lower even with the valve closed. I know you guys have a complete explanation for the lock out valve's operation.... Who wants to be first with a very thorough explanation? (I would like to be able to raise and lower the box blade when I plow.)

Thanks!
 
#30 ·
With a lock out valve on one side of the cylinder, It will prevent movement in either direction so long as everything is sealed correctly. Since fluid canot be compressed, the valve will prevent any movement in either direction. However, if the piston in the cylinder has an internal leak, then the cylinder will "creep" down. The worse the leak, the faster the creep. It will creep because the bad seal on the piston will let fluid go from one side to other. When this happens, the piston will move.

Also, if anyone needs a valve and doesn't want to spend a crap ton of money, I have a couple 1/4 turn 1/4"npt hydraulic valves that I would be willing to share. I used one on my 318 and it works great. Your on your own for fittings, but I have the valves. Just shoot me a PM with an address and I will mail them out. They are the same as the one Dan33Klien posted above, except they are 1/4" NPT, female threads on both sides.

Dave
 
#31 ·
Is the box blade attached with a hydraulic 3 pt? If it is, the 3pt cylinder is in the same circuit as the angle of the blade and the Rockshaft. So it would still move up/down even tho the Rockshaft is locked out. It would also take a lockout valve for it, but the angle would move side to side still when unlocked and using the box blade. Only way would be to make it a H3 and use the 3rd valve/lever for the 3pt. :fing32:
 
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