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little help please!!

3K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  calrec 
#1 ·
OK So I took the blade off my Snapper and dropped it off at the local hardware to be sharpened. Picked it up on Monday and proceeded to put it back on so I could mow. As soon as I engaged the blade the whole thing started to vibrate. I immediately thought I put the blade on upside down. Nope. Took the cover off the deck over the belt to see if there was anything obvious. Nothing I could see, so I fired it up again. Same thing. Vibrated alot and the belt was starting to smoke. Shut it down and checked belt again. Everything looks OK. Any suggestions? Could something have gotten out of alignment when I stood it up to remove the blade? As a precaution I ordered a new belt. Should be here tomorrow.
 
#2 ·
Perhaps when sharpening, they got blade out of balance. Sometimes, they will grind more material off one edge of blade versus the other. This will cause the blade to become unbalanced, thereby causing vibration. The more out of balance, the more vibration.

The simplest way I check blade balance is to place a straight edge (like a putty knife) in a vise, the try and balance the mower blade on the edge of the putty knife. (Think of a teeter totter). If the mower blade is centered on the putty knife and the blade stays level, it's in balance. If not, it will dip towards the heavier side. If it dips, sharpen the heavier edge a little more (removing more material) until blade back in balance. (Hope this makes sense)

The other thing to think of is to make sure they didn't bend the blade. Take a tape measure and measure blade from end to end on one side. Then flip blade over and measure end to end on other side. If measurements are equal, blade is straight. If unequal, indicates a bend to the blade. This can also cause severe vibration.

Just my two cents worth...hope it helps.
 
#4 ·
I use a piece of smaill pipe or a screw driver in a vice and place the blades center hole on the screw driver and if it dips to one side that is the heavy side and double check by flipping the blade around.
So then of course remove from the heavy side small amouts at a time to get it balanced.
 
#5 ·
A tool to lay a blade on to see if it is balanced can be bought at most hardware, box store and lawn equipment dealers. It looks like a little cone with about 8 steps going up the side of it.
 
#6 ·
Yes when you stood it up the belt may have jumped over (or sliped over)a bult guide (or i call them a metal finger) that keeps the belt from jumping off. If it is over the finger guide the built will rub on it and smoke. Make sure that the belt is in the right prosition.:goodl:
 
#10 ·
Look at it this way. You now have a spare blade for the Snapper or add the wing tips to just one of blades. This will turn your HiVac in to a Super HiVac that comes in handy during fall cleanup if you use a bagger. The new idler pulley should last a long time.

$$$$$ WELL SPENT IMO :thThumbsU
 
#13 ·
As much grass, clippings and leaves that find their way under the cover, when you tilted it up on end, you may have filled the Vee with debris, jamming it up enough to make the pulley slip on the belt. After you get the belt out of the way, you can remove the nut, and lift the pulley & bearing off for inspection, cleaning, and possibly lubing. I have vague memories of doing that, and may have used the MkI Mod 0 finger to force grease past the seals into the bearing race.
If you didn't have a problem before, you may not have one now. Take it apart {my downfall, I'll admit, but I know I'm done assembling when I run out of parts} and inspect. A replacement idler is not expensive if needed, but why buy a new one when you can 'make it last'...
tom
 
#18 ·
Yes, that's being cheap. It's like spending a dollar to save a quarter. That idler is toast if it already locked up. Even if you get it to turn, it will eventually lock again (if it doesn't come off the bearing completely), burning the belt in the process. Your vibration is most likely a burnt spot in the belt that is on there now.

Orange JD is correct. Don't even think about reusing that idler.
 
#19 ·
idler $3 to $5 New belt $30 to $40 I have never seen a belt take out a idler, but I have seen bad idlers take out belts.

Boy I hope none of these guys work for a major airline.:crybaby:
I think we need a post of what your jobs are.:sidelaugh
 
#23 ·
Yup, I ruined a belt (literally smoked it)...I was an overconfident newbie.
Charged full 12.5 Hp into a pile of wet leaves, figuring the Snapper was invincible! Didn't take long for the Snapper to try its best but the belt couldn't hack it :crybaby: :crybaby:

Belt wore down to about 1/2 diameter for about a foot

If I recall, the Snapper didn't stall (lesson learned $= unhappy wife) :sorry1:
 
#21 ·
You guys are sooooo smart.
You know it all, have been around the world, and looked behind every bush twice, as the saying goes.
I never said the idler should be kept in service if the bearing was shot, nor if it had locked up. The situation I yapped about was where the idler got stuffed full of detritus, and jammed. But you guys who know it all have never had that happen, right?
If the bearing in the idler is rough, and you can feel that very easily, then of course replace it.
If you buy your belts at a place that charges $30 to $40, stop by, and I'll meet their price and give you a $5 rebate. Last belt I bought was $12 and it has lasted quite a few years. Ditto the idler, which is factory from 1991... And I don't think idlers are $3.
Oh, and about teeth .... Hmmm ... never mind, the store is having a sale, so don't bother taking care of the ones you bought last week... ha. {all in jest...}
 
#22 ·
hammer it free see if it turnes with only a tight spot or to and wash it out with clener. put it back on.-- Yep I work as maintenance on aircraft--NOT--

Now for real I wouldn't wast my time on the old one I would put a new one on and there would be less work in the long run. But thats just me.:banghead3
 
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