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John Deere Paint

35K views 24 replies 18 participants last post by  meantractor 
#1 ·
Hello all, I'm a newbie here on this forum and in the garden tractor world. I purchased a 1978 John Deere 212 that I'm in the process of redoing and using it as a lawn and garden tractor around my house to mow and push snow. I was wondering what kind of paint you guys recommend? What are your thoughts of the strength and quality of the John Deere Green paint you can get at the local dealership or do I go to the local paint shop and have them mix me John Deere Green and use a clearcoat then on it? I have all panels primed and ready to go. Thanks everyone in advance. I have to get some pictures on here soon.
 
#2 ·
depends if you want to make a show-piece, or just paint a "working machine"?....

if show-piece, go to a base / clear-coat product. If working machine, I'd use the regular enamel or whatever the standard paint is....

I use basic spray-can for all my implements... surface finish is acceptable, but highly dependent on quality of the prepped surface.... for implements I am not too picky.... but a well prepped surface can look quite-good when painted with a spray can. Mind you, that is usually steel framework (narrow, convoluted-shape pieces) etc... on a large flat surface (like a front hood), paint uniformity imperfections will be more visible.

Spray-can paint durability is quite good - as long as you give the paint 2-3 days to dry good and well.
 
#3 ·
I don't know how fussy you are about the paint matching but even if you could use original JD paint, after 32 years there has to be some fading.
The best would be to show your local paint shop a original painted part, and let them match the green.
 
#4 ·
Well I'm not looking to show the tractor, but I want it to look good. I'm painting everything that is green on the tractor. I'm pretty happy with my prep work and I will be spraying the pieces with an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) spray gun. I want a really durable paint that will look good after years of use and tree branches and things possibly rubbing against the tractor. Just looking for what you guys have experience with.
 
#5 ·
HVLP is usually good for painting latex paint on dry-wall, or on wood - where you need high volume due to absorbtion...

for metals surfaces, you may end up with runs, as it will be difficult to overlap spray patterns, without putting too much paint down....

be careful.

As for what type of paint to use?... the best I know for what you are talking about is Endura. The paint remains somewhat soft - like a plastic-coating, that allows the substrate (metals or plastics) to flex, or be impacted, without causing the paint to crack or chip...
http://www.endura.ca/

but it's not cheap, and it's an epoxy paint... meaning you have to mix it, paint it, and clean out our spray-gun before it "sets"... but for this I honestly wouldn't bother... but that's just me...
 
#9 ·
HVLP guns have been the industry standard in the autobody shops for years. They are more efficient with product and do a fantastic job, but need a good compressor to keep up with them as these guns are CFM hogs. If you want a durable finish the automotive acrylic urethanes are excellent, as well as the catalyzed enamels (Valspar from TSC). I find the acrylic urethanes easier to spray, but did cut my teeth spraying enamels back in the '80's. Regardless of the paint or gun you choose, the most durable paint is crap with out meticulous prep work. Good Luck!:fing32:
 
#6 ·
I'll go against the grain here! I use "off-the-shelf" John Deere Ag green, after all they're tractors not "show cars". Unless you want to spend a lot of $$$! Beware of anything but John Deere brand (or Valspar Restoration Series) as other brands don't hold up as well. ~~ grnspot110
 
#7 ·
Tractor Supply will sell you the Valspar Restoration mentioned above for $44 per gal. OR you can have the Valspar Tractor & Implement paint for $29 per gal. Both are available in J.D.G. I used the T & I in A.C. Orange and was pleased with the results. I Did add the optional Valspar hardner. JMO
 
#10 ·
I just used JD rattle cans on my 318 and it looked fine the valspar rattle cans have worked for other too.
IT IS GOING TO GET SCRATCHED ( actually more scuffed from boots and attachments) it's a tractor. Don't get me wrong i still wax my JD. but she has work to do..
 
#12 ·
When I restored my 64 110 I used the JD enamel from the dealer. That way I can use the rattle cans for touch up when needed. Mine is a worker also but looks fantastic! The wagon in my avatar was done with rattle cans from JD. slkpk
 
#13 ·
Hey, I just thought that'd I'd let you guys know that I started painting some of the smaller panels this weekend (it was way too windy out to do much painting). I went with the JD Ag Green from JD and mixed in the hardener. So far, what I did paint I'm pleased with. Thanks for all the help. Once I get it done I'll have to post some pics.
 
#15 ·
hvlp is top of line gun of todays body man,it will be perfect for your job,i dont know what wally is talking about,i've been in painter for 24 years,i used john deere paint from dealer and hvlp to restore my 430,everyone thinks it has clear coat,u have to be very careful how u thin the paint,if to much,it can die back and look dull u will have to experiment,its a straight or synthetic paint so u should get the right hardener too,very important ,i just got some from the local runnings or fleet farm,its tricky itl look rough and u will think u need to hose more on but dont it will flow out,but then again ive done it for so long i could do it with my eyes closed i swear.hope this helps
 
#17 ·
Common misconception Wally,

Those that are familiar with the turbine powered HVLP guns can't make the connection to gravity fed HVLP guns.

It was extremely difficult for older painters (like me) to make the transition from siphon feed to HVLP. Every painter in my shop hated the new, must comply with OSHA/EPA HVLP guns. They were, to say the least, just horrible in the beginning. And to make things worse, they were very expensive.

Once technology caught up with performance, and the price came down for the average professional, they were better in all aspects....especially VOC's and product consumption. The contemporary guns have close to 80% transfer efficiency (Chemical $avings). I have (probably) $1200. in three spray guns (SATA) and some of the aftermarket 'cheapies', nearly throw-away's are better for painting tractors and implements.

I would never paint with anything other than HVLP.

Mark
 
#18 ·
Use ANY gravity feed gun AND JD Green,Blitz Black and JD Yellow,can't go wrong.IMHO
 
#19 · (Edited)
Here is John Deere paint from the dealer. No hardener or clear coat, just paint.



I never can get the rattle cans to gloss this much, but thats just me. The only thing I would have done different on this tractor would be to add hardener to the paint. 2 days after the paint had dried I sat on the rear axel to put on a decal and when I stood up my blue jeans were imprinted in the paint.:thSick:
 
#20 ·
here is a 212 I just painted with the valspar restoration series paint from tractor supply







The pics don't really do it justice.


btw- all the restoration paint was on clearance and the manager said they "when it's gone it's gone" Not sure if they are going to stop selling it at all the tractor supplies or just mine.
 
#22 ·
Nice job. Want to do my 210? I hope to do a similar project this fall along with an engine repower. Mine has the screen sides and I am not sure how they will take the paint though. Also, where are you going to get your decals?
 
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