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Gilson / Montgomery Ward wiring help.

12K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  freeonthree 
#1 ·
My turn to beg for help. I have a Gilson made Montgomery Ward Variable Speed 16.
I am having some wiring problems. I just put a new battery in it and started to
track down some of the loose wires and try to put them back. Does anyone have a
close up view of the back of the ignition switch? I have a manual, but the area
for the switch is not so readable. If anyone could show me a switch with the
terminals labeled, I would be grateful.
Thanks
Terry in Minn.
 
#5 ·
#11 ·
I'm still not sure. I have this switch on my tractor, but I can't seem to find a schematic for this switch. Could someone fill me in on where to connect.
Thanks
Terry

Wheel Horse 430-662 Photo by mywoodennickel | Photobucket
Do you have an ohmmeter with a continuity buzzer ?
A test light and a battery will work too.
For starters, locate the two poles that are shorted in the crank position.
Next, one of those two poles you just found (crank) will be shorted to another pole in the on position.
At that point you have batt in, ignition (coil power), and crank (to S terminal of the selonoid. The remaining two are shorted in the off position for killing magnet driven ignitions. One terminal goes to ground, and the other to the ignitions kill wire. Dennis
 
#6 ·
i fried to electricle system on mine use a pair of chanel locks and a screw driver to start it and it doesnt charge batt got to hook it up every week.
 
#7 ·
I will see what I can do for you. It may take until next weekend. I have one with the gas tank out to chase wiring. It's behind the shed in the mud and working Dark to Dark. I know the Manuals aren't very clear.
 
#8 ·
Wurkenman,

On the blades of your ignition switch they will be marked with a letter : B for battery -- goes to big bolt on battery side of solenoid, M for magneto -- magneto wire, G for ground -- to engine or frame, if engine mounted on rubber go from motor to frame, then frame to ignition switch, L for lights -- or load, such as horn, etc, S is for starter solenoid -- small nut/bolt on solenoid.

DO NOT USE a switch that is identical but has an "I" instead of the "M" on one of the blades! The "I" is for an ignition type (through coil) and will burn up the magneto if you try to use it.

Hope my girlie explanation helps...lol.

Sue
 
#10 ·
Thanks everyone for the help. My switch is not the original. It is the one pictured in the link on my last post. I am happy to report, that through trial and error I got it wired. Good thing too, down to my last fuse. At least it will start and turn off with the key now without blowing fuses. I still have not checked to see if it is charging, but at least I can use it now. Not a moment too soon either, we are getting more snow here and it is not enough to justify gatting the Case out with the snowblower, so now I can use the old Wrads with the plow.
Thanks
again
Terry
 
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