My Tractor Forum banner

Homemade Suburban mid mount grader blade

69K views 172 replies 25 participants last post by  evo803 
#1 ·
I've been eyeballing the owner's manuals for the original mid mounts for some time now. No matter how long I stare at the pictures one never appears in the garage so...
I'm going to use a rusted out 46" dozer blade and a bunch of salvaged steel to build my own mid-mount grader blade to fit my ST/12.

4 weeks ago I pulled the dozer blade from the lean-to and cut it half.


A few weeks back I removed the skin from the top half of the blade. ( I'll use this to skin the new blade. I also cut off the remaining curved sections from the top rib to use for added support for the remaining blade.

This morning I cut up a few chunks of 1/4" plate to approximate the original mounting tabs. I used 1/2" bar and 2 washers to make the upper locating pins. I'll dress up the brackets a bit once the build is further along.
Only one is pictured, but both mounts are done and on.




I'm planing to use the remains of the tongue jack in the last 2 pics for this build as well.

I'm going to be busier than I'd like with other things for the next week or so, but I'll post updates as often as possible. I can already see the ground piling up in front of this thing. I can't wait.:trink40:
 
See less See more
3
#2 ·
Great Idea !! I can't wait to see more.:thThumbsU:thThumbsU
 
#5 ·
Thanks Guys. The brackets will look even closer to factory when I'm done. I didn't want to put too much time into them in case I scrapped them for something else before the project was finished.
 
#7 ·
The factory Mid Mount allowed you to not only angle side to side, but grade on an angle like a regular road grader did. They look cool, and work well, the only disadvantage I had with mine was that the lift mechanism got hung up when I was driving over rocks and or sticks etc.

I have been thinking about making one recently as well after I traded mine, but a much more simple design, and maybe something that the lift would tuck up into the frame.

I can't wait to see your progress!!
 
#10 ·
Tractor#2- I've always thought that you could get a more even grade between the axles than in front of/behind. I'm also building it for the cool factor, for more welding experience, using up scrap that I've amassed before we move this summer.

James- you bring up a good point about sticking in the up position. I'll have to ponder that one for a bit. Was there anything else that you would have changed given the chance? Eventually I want to add a couple of linear actuators for lift/downforce and blade angle. I'll still tilt the blade by hand I think... Unless...

Keith- Let's see how #0001 goes first.

I should have a few new pics tomorrow.
 
#11 ·
The model I have has a lift handle like the mower decks. They are made to spread stone or dirt, not grade hard packed ground. You can set the height unlike the rear grader with a manual hitch. The blade is also 1/2 thick steel unlike the graders.

Like most of the other attachments, you should take it off if it's not being used. The brackets say on.

I used the eathcavator with the elec. hitch today. That works nice as you can feather the switch to set the height while your moving.
 
#12 ·
I've used all three and the midmount is much nicer to use for grading than the rear or the front. It is much more consistent between the axles than 2 or 3feet infront or behind the axle, if you hit a hole with a front tire the rear blade goes way up because it is so far away from the axle. It also makes for a shorter rig wich makes it easier to manuver. The rear blade is better for pulling material away from an obsruction, like pulling snow away from a garage door, and the front blade is better for clearing snow. So if you could only have 1 the front blade can do it all but for grading the midmount is far superior. On my mid mount blade I can push down with my feet on either side to take a bigger bite of the material. Ed
 
#33 ·
On my mid mount blade I can push down with my feet on either side to take a bigger bite of the material. Ed
I use my buddy's Mid Mount grader to dress up the tire ruts in his gravel towing lot. with the weight of the trucks packing it down, the grader just bounces across the surface.

I just put the tractor in first high, then put my feet on the blade.. there have been a few times, when i was standing on the blade to break it up.

you have to be careful when the blade is angled, because the rear tires keep trying to grab your boot.

kids.. don't try this at home LOL


dave
 
#13 ·
ive always thought that an easy way to make a midmount would be to make a reverse A-frame, with the double end on the lower holes of the front axle. on the single end, you have the blade, then an electric actuator to lift and lower it.

i like your work so far jake, ill be interested to see how it works out, i might put in an order for number 00003
 
#14 ·
I got about 2 1/2hrs in today. I'm happy with the progress considering I'm working with hand tools and each one of these pieces is cut from a 4'x6"x1/4" plate.





All of the holes line up so it'll hang straight without pin bind.



The outer bars keep the blade frame stable and square to the tractor. The framework that locates the lift mechanism will attach to them as well. The inner bars will reinforce the connection to the "C" frame that will attach to the blade pivot tube.



The more I look at it the more I don't like the ears that attach to the tractor frame. I feel that 1-1/4"x1/4" tabs will bend if the blade gets hung up on something. I'm debating constructing stronger tabs.

Tomorrow I'll start constructing the frame that the blade pivot tube will attach to.

I've just started restoring a Pennsylvania tow behind 3 gang reel mower for my Custom 6 so you'll see a thread start for that soon. I'm also waiting for an electric assist 3pt hitch plate to arrive as well- yet another project I want to get started on. See ADD can be a good thing- sometimes...:sidelaugh:trink40:
 
#15 ·
Looking good!!!!! :thThumbsU :thThumbsU
 
#18 ·
Maybe I made it sound worse than it really is. My goto tools are a sawsall, a hack saw, a nice file, a 4-1/2" grinder, a bench grinder, and my wire feed welder. I yern for a big horizontal band saw, a nice lathe,, floor height drill press, a bigger mig welder, a press, a shear, bridgeport... Ya know. basic shop stuff. :drunkie::sidelaugh

Thanks for the offer. If I get stuck I'll look ya up.
 
#19 ·
I have a horizontal band saw, since I got my chop saw I really don't use it much. Even the torches don't get used as much. The chop saw was the best thing I ever got for my shop. It cuts so fast and neat, it really helps the welding to have nice close joints. Good luck, so far the build is coming out first rate..Ed
 
#20 ·
I love chop saws too! Thats next on my list- however, the band saw is very useful too.

That mid mount is gonna be better that factory! Keep the close ups coming! I may make another one yet!
 
#21 ·
Done playing for today. The "C" frame is almost done. I have to get a 2-1/4" hole saw to open up the front plate to accept the pivot tube. With the frame as it sits the blade will be limited to a 2-1/2" cut. I can't imagine cutting any deeper than that. I can make some minor adjustments and get over 3 inches if needed.





The lift mechanism will use 3/8" rods. The pivot is 1/2". The weld was 45* bevel down to 1/16". Root and Cover with .035 innershield nr211mp using a lincoln pro 100 set at D-2.5. Preheated to 250* to ensure maximum penetration.



It's coming together. I hope to find the holesaw for tomorrow.





I'm contemplating leaving this blade 46" wide. The extra reach may come in handy when grading next to the house. Now if only I could put the blade on a slide to really hang it out to one side or the other.
 
#22 ·
Definitely leave it wider!!! That was definitely one thing I would have done with mine! Looking good!

I may have asked before, but where in Mass are you?
 
#23 · (Edited)
Swansea/Somerset area.

I got the cutter I needed for my holesaw on the way into work today. With a little luck it should start to look like something by the end of the weekend.
 
#24 ·
Geesh there aren't too many people in our forum near me that I know of. 4 or 5 maybe within an hour...
 
#26 ·
Not as much progress as I had hoped, but I'ms till making progress.









Added braces made from the leftover ribs cut offs.


 
#29 ·
I'm going to model the lift mechanism after the original stuff I think. It'll get updated down the road with linear actuators. For testing/tuning I'll take the easy way out.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top