Rebuild Begins TO-30 vs Wingnut

[Wingnut]

The parts are cleaned and organized!
Batteries for the Camera are Charged!
Got my Commodities: Lubriplate (motor assembly grease), Form-A-Gasket, squirt can of motor oil, axle grease, and clean rags.

The engine gasket set should be delivered here by 11:30 AM cst.

Plans for the day:
Rebuild oil pump
Install Sleeves
Install Tappets, Camshaft
Install Main bearings and Crankshaft
Install Timing Gears and Oil pump

[bontai Joe]

Sounds like you have a good plan! Hopefully all goes well, everthing fits, wrenches don't slip and you finish the day with no skinned knuckles, and all tasks completed.

[Wingnut]

Sounds like you have a good plan! Hopefully all goes well, everthing fits, wrenches don't slip and you finish the day with no skinned knuckles, and all tasks completed.

Well things are not as good as I like them to be. The gasket are not here yet, right now I am reaming out the new wrist pin bushing on the contecting rods, there is now only 1 left to do. When the manual states "ream out a substantrial amount of material" it was not kidding. :bonk: Why couldn't they make the bushing closer to the correct size :fing20: it would have save me a couple of hour. At least I am in an A/C area while doing this!

I am preparing each of the components for the rebuild and won't start placing stuff in block until 3:30 CST (shade and squirrel cage fan come over my work area).

[draddogs]

Well it 's always something that holds up progress. Any way by the planed work you have laid out you should be busy till they arrive. Mostly mechanical parts requiring few if any gaskets which I believe is the most fun part of a rebuild. You get to put new life into a treasure, with your hands.

Keep up the work along with the pictures, I am ready to see it to the grand finale' :fing32:

[Wingnut]

Sleeve installation - great care is needed when installing sleeves you don't want to twist or damage the O-rings.

I still have a lot of old school in me and it worked for me before so I used Dish Soap to lubricate the O-rings.

The hardest part is not damaging the O-rings when slipping the sleeve through the top of the block!

Then use a mallet and piece of wood to drive the sleeve into place!

[Wingnut]

All the sleeves are installed! :bannana:

Now it is time to rotate the block and look at those pretty sleeves!

Time to install the Tappets. You see I have organized in a box with the push rods (very strong ones at that) and parts of the governer.

Using Lubriplate I grease up the Tappet for installation (Nice Blue Gloves Paul recommended them!)

[Wingnut]

I have installed all the Tappets and you are probably asking yourself what with the Brake Hone?

Some light surface rust started to form on the Camshaft journals. So I clean the journals by using the Brake Hone by twisting by hand. A drill might take away more than I wanted too; with approx. 5 rotation I removed all the unwanted rust!

I did install the camshaft, but I didn't take a picture (supper got in the way so you will have to wait for tomorrows update).

Still waiting on the gasket to be shipped to me!

BTW That's one pretty camshaft!!

[Carl]

Now it is really starting to look P R E T T Y ! :congrats:

[draddogs]

Very good Wingnu. The blue gloves made me think that I was in r-the wrong forum. Phew. I thought I was going to get a lesson on heart trans plants... Looking good there.

[Ingersoll444]

Those gloves are the best! I started out using them just for the nasty stuff. Packing wheel bearings, oil changes etc, but now I use them all the time. Realy help keep the hands cleaner.

Coming along great. She will be running in no time.

[Wingnut]

The parts are cleaned and organized!
Batteries for the Camera are Charged!
Got my Commodities: Lubriplate (motor assembly grease), Form-A-Gasket, squirt can of motor oil, axle grease, and clean rags.

The engine gasket set should be delivered here by 11:30 AM cst.

Plans for the day:
Rebuild oil pump
Install Sleeves
Install Tappets, Camshaft
Install Main bearings and Crankshaft
Install Timing Gears and Oil pump

I would have complete all these task except I need some parts out of the gasket set to install the crankshaft :banghead3 I need 2 oil seals before I can install the crankshaft!

[mark777]

These are the type of contributions that help and inspire other members to tackle even the smallest of repairs. Great post and pictures. Raises the standard here, or at any tractor forum! IMO, Engine rebuilding takes allot of time and concentration, but documenting the process with pictures and explanations goes beyond the self gratification....It is a teaching experience. You should be proud.

BTW: I was going to ask if you needed to size your cam bearings, but I see the brake hone lying in the block....so I understand what you did.

Regards, Mark

[Wingnut]

I was going to ask if you needed to size your cam bearings, but I see the brake hone lying in the block....so I understand what you did.

Regards, Mark

I did not need to change the bearing sizes just cleaning out of some surface rust that just started to form.

[Wingnut]

The camshaft is install with a lot of greasy kid stuff I added to it!

I wipe the camshaft clean to remove the shipping oil to prevent foreign material (dirt and what not) that it might have accumulated during transport.

[Wingnut]

Well I am doing as much work as I can waiting for the Gaskets set!

I have installed main bearing (well half way ROF)!

[Wingnut]

New Crankshaft; there $500 worth of machined steel!
It did come in a nice box all the way from India by way of Iowa :congrats:

Nice comformal coating for rust protection!

Easy to clean off with WD-40

[Wingnut]

Time to lubriplate the main bearings and look for trip hazards around the block!
After you deem the area safe, carry the crankshaft over to the block!
CAREFULLY place the crankshaft into the block!
Place the new match bearing half into the main bearing caps.

[Wingnut]

The bearing caps are all in, spin the crankshaft to check for binds. THe crankshaft turns freely like it should! :bannana:

I have only hand torqure bearing caps on need some seals and gasket before proceeding!

So I cover the Block up so no Birds will build a nest, lay eggs, and start a family while I am waiting for my gaskets :fing20:

[Wingnut]

My gasket set made a guess apperance in Ohio (visiting Durwood maybe), but they are in transit to Liberty Hill as I type. I hope they don't plan to go on a 50 state tour!

[draddogs]

Wing why would you say anything like that. Now you know it will take a slow boat to Texas.

[parts man]

Nice job Wing,, excellent documentation!

[Wingnut]

Two for the Contecting Rod wrist pin bushing had to be repalced and hone to fit. The bushing on the 2 and 4 contecting rod were still well with in specification;as if they were replace during the last overhaul.

Organization is as importaint as cleanliness!
The pistons and the sleeves come in match set. The contecting rods are marked for which cylinder they belong to. If you contecting rods are not marked it is good practice to mark them or tag them yourself.

Note: I usually mark the contecting rod and its bearing cap on the same side, for some reason the person mark them on opposite sides. BTW if you choose to reuse the rod bearing keep them with the same rod or excessive wear and knock will happen!

So the number 1 cylinder, as the number 1 piston on the number 1 connecting rod, and the number 2...... so on for the rest of the engine.

[Wingnut]

On the top of the pistion there are marking very small and faint I highlighted them in the picture. These marking I use when attaching the conecting rod, this marking will be on the sameside as the number on the connecting Rod (not the number on the cap).

The piston and connecting rods are balanced, by having all the pistons and rods installed in the same direction and position will prevent excess vibration and wear on the engine.

Note:the piston I have replace had a dot (some have arrows) pointing to the front of the engine. The dots marking on the piston will be facing the camshaft, because of Papa Adams a diesel instructor a Central Texas College told me "Piston point to the front or to the camshaft" so in honor of him; they are pointing to the camshaft.

[USN_ED]

Sounds like you have a good plan! Hopefully all goes well, everthing fits, wrenches don't slip and you finish the day with no skinned knuckles, and all tasks completed.

Joe -

It wouldn't be a fun project without skinned knuckles, and some minor misaligned parts and slipped wrenches.

Wingnut -

It is frustrating as heck when parts don't arrive on time but what is really frustrating for me is that when the parts do come, they are the wrong parts.

Keep up the good work and pictures. A very thorough job.

[Wingnut]

On the TO-30 or should I say the Contenial Z129 Engine the Wrist pins are not pressed like some small engines. A simple pressing (about 25 lbs of pressure) using the palm of your hand.

Those sure are some nice looking piston!

I am still waiting on the Gasket Set. So if I really get bored I will install the connect rod bearings and piston rings.

Where's my Gaskets !!!!!!!!

[Wingnut]

Wow what a difference between old and new bearings!
The old scalled bearings feel like 120 grit sand paper.

According to the box I should get NACAR Performance from my tractor now! ROF :trink40: :omg:

[Wingnut]

I have never came across and engine where all the bearing were in such worn out damage state before! It is hard to believe the tractor was running pretty smooth.

But the new rod bearing make everything look even better! ROF

[draddogs]

It's coming along great and as others have said the documentation is awesome.

[Wingnut]

I am waiting on the gaskets; I would have the tractor fired up by now if I didn't have to wait for the gaskets.

But all was not lost BigOrangeDan is making a cannon out of the old sleeves!
I did go to the Oatmeal Festival yesterday and I spent my day smoking a 22 lbs. brisket for 7 hours.

Tomorrow will the gasket make here or will a holiday give me another delay?
How many licks does it take to get to the Tootise Roll center of a Tootise pop?
I am rambling.......

[Carl]

Wing, I have a question. I know that the pistons and rods and all are marked for a certain cylinder. However, you are putting in new crank, pistons, wrist pins, and cylinders. It seems to me that at this point you could safely put all the parts anywhere since they will all wear in anyway. Of course the parts are marked so put them where they are marked. But if they weren't marked they could be put anywhere without worrying?

[Wingnut]

Wing, I have a question. I know that the pistons and rods and all are marked for a certain cylinder. However, you are putting in new crank, pistons, wrist pins, and cylinders. It seems to me that at this point you could safely put all the parts anywhere since they will all wear in anyway. Of course the parts are marked so put them where they are marked. But if they weren't marked they could be put anywhere without worrying?

I could put any order I wanted too since the engine was gutted; but for "Best Practice" I placed everything where it was marked not for my benefit, but for person who will rebuild the engine in the future. This tractor does have the potential to be running for another 50 years with the newer oils, cleaner fuels, stronger alloys, and it won't be run as hard or negected as it was in the past.

[GreyGhost]

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A true compliment is in order to the person who started this thread.

[Wingnut]

Damn the Gaskets I push on!

Rebuilding the Oil pump, sorry about the blurry picture.

I had to use an impact driver to open the oil pump and the parts just fell out!

I dropped in the the pump gears pretty simply huh? Not!

[Wingnut]

Before I can install the cover plate and gasket, I had to press the oil pump drive gear on to the shaft using a small arbor press (don't press down to far!).

Then I could in stall the cover plate, but wait there's more!

Now you have to drill a hole between the gear and the shaft and TAP it, but you can only drill down 5/16 and then you install a locking screw.

[Wingnut]

After installing the locking nut time to install it on the engine!
So far on repairing the Oil pump:
We needed and impact driver to open up the face plate to remove the old parts.
We needed an Arbor press to install the drive grear to shaft!
We needed a Drill Press to drill into the drive gear and shaft.
We needed a caliper to measure the depth of the hole.
We needed a TAP to tread the hole for the locking nut.
We needed and Allen wrench and locktite to install the locking nut.
And now we need a torque wrench to install the oil pump to engine.
A simple operation for a few parts :fing20: At least my engine was apart it seemed like and easy task, but there were a heck of a lot more step than I had planned for.

I then install the Cranshaft Gear, Camshaft Gear and timed the engine. Then used a dial indicator to measure in-play and lash on the gears.