New owner of a 72 Power King.

[cajun66]

I love old stuff, I'm a tractor mechanic, and I needed to replace my riding mower.

So I found this: Included the grader.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g260/cajun66/tractor/DSCF2994.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g260/cajun66/tractor/DSCF2993.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g260/cajun66/tractor/DSCF3001.jpg

[jimjimmyjames]

Nice find! If I could find one, I would run it.

[cajun66]

Once I put the belt on the mower, it will be used. I also plan to use the grader on my driveway.

[jlinskey]

Welcome to the forum. That is a nice looking Power King!

You may want to check and change all of the fluids before using the tractor.

[teddy]

Be Proud!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jas11964]

Nice little 1612. Why do you think it's a 72? That style came out in 73 and the 1612 designation, I think, started a little later. Do you have the serial number? Your tractor may be newer than you think.

[cajun66]

Serial starts with 4. I'll get the rest later.

[jas11964]

OK, that's enough to tell me (combined with the picture of course) that your tractor was made anywhere between 1976 and 1979 which makes sense with the 1612 designation instead of Jim Dandy and the Power King name on the hood instead of Economy. They changed from Economy tractors to Power King tractors in the mid 70s.

[cajun66]

Good thing I checked the fluids.
Motor oil was OK so I changed it anyway.
Rear end was full of oil. Left it alone.
Transmission was full of water. Flushed it with oil several times and filled.
I then cut 2.5 acres of grass without a hitch.

[jas11964]

May I ask how much fluid you put in the tranny? They only get half a pint. It should not be filled high enough to run out the side hole. That's too much. A quick way to tell if it's at the right level is to stick your pinky finger in the side hole and bend it at 90 degrees down. The tip of your finger should just touch the top of the fluid. If you filled it till you spilled it, it will end up in the rear end after it ruins your seals.

[cajun66]

I need to let some out then.
What about the rear end and gear reductions?

[jeepersmitty]

Nice tractor. I seldom see any of those in my part of Texas.

[jas11964]

The rear end takes 2 pints of 80/90 gear lube. The final drives take 3/4 pint for the Jim Dandy which is basically what you have.

[cajun66]

Many thanks for the input. I'm going to go ahead and change all the fluids again and measure out the fluids just to be sure.
:thanku:

[skippytdi]

Jeff,
Can you specify fluid types for the final drives and tranny?
much obliged.
mike

[jas11964]

Some people like to use STP in the tranny. It's thicker than the gear lube and really cuts down on the grinding when putting the tractor in gear.

[cajun66]

I finally had the presence of mind to actually go out and look at the serial #.

44379

Does that tell you what year it is?

[jas11964]

Yes, congratulations, you're the pround father of a 1978 Power King 1612. Happy looking little thing too. By the way, you'll like the fuel mileage. I mow an acre and a half 4 times before I think about filling it up... and it's only a 2 gallon tank!

[cajun66]

Thanks Jeff. And you're right. I cut 2.5 acres on 1 gallon. I almost bought a new mower when I came across a man who repairs and sells old garden tractors.
He had a few Power Kings and a Tuffbilt.

An 18hp that was out of my budget:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g260/cajun66/tractor/DSCF2990.jpg

One with a homemade front end loader:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g260/cajun66/tractor/DSCF2987.jpg
Overhead valve 18 but I liked the duallys.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g260/cajun66/tractor/DSCF2986.jpg

And the Tuffbilt
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g260/cajun66/tractor/DSCF2992.jpg

[jas11964]

That 18hp you say is over your budget is actually a 16hp from the looks of the air cleaner. Both the 16hp and 18hp have very distinct air cleaners and both are very different from one another. The 18hp is one to steer clear of unless you like working on engines... ALOT. I also like the duals. The one with the home made loader is 14hp. On the 16hp tractor, I like how the guy (or someone) reinforced the mower deck around the bottom. He did a nice job. Tuff Bilts are cool no matter how you look at them.

[cajun66]

I like how the guy (or someone) reinforced the mower deck around the bottom.

Me too I bought a piece of 1/4 x 2" flat bar to do the same.

[skippytdi]

This particular forum, it seems, should have a disclaimer that reads "Most questions answered by Jeff"
I've got the service cd coming in the mail but there is a wait, incidentally, at times, for delivery. (i'm trying to make an excuse for my machine gunning of questions)
Are you saying that the tranny, rear end and final drives all use gear lube Jeff? Would the amounts you stated be applicable for a 74 1614 economy?
MP

[jas11964]

This particular forum, it seems, should have a disclaimer that reads "Most questions answered by Jeff"MP

Sorry about that. Don't mean to monopolize the forum. I've been around these tractors all my life but my knowledge is still rather limited. You guys have just been hitting on stuff I know! I've been a member of Power King yahoo groups for probably 8 years or better and even owned one for 4 or 5 years. Still, the proof is in the pudding. Aside from restoring one, I don't have to work on them very often. I have amassed some information which I refer to when you guys have a question. I just learn along with you all some times. I just like to help get the proper info on these tractors out to the general public so that these great little machines can live on.

Now, you your question about gear lube. The book calls out for 80/90 gear lube in the following areas:
- Transmission: 1/2 pint (or 1" BELOW the fill plug) for both PK and JD (check daily, yea, right, and change every 50 hours)
- Differential: 2 pints for both PK and JD (change every 100 hours)
- Gear case (final drives): 3/4 pint for Jim Dandy (1612) and 1 1/2 pints for Power King. (change every 25 hours)
- Steering gear: It takes 80/90 but it doesn't specify the amount. It only states that you should service every 50 hours.

Now, a lot of you will notice that the PK grinds into gear. That's just the way they are. It's a Crosely transmission without the syncro. To curb this, many folks will use STP in the tranny rather than the 80/90 gear lube. It's best to bet something that you can stick in the side hole and leave for a prolonged period of time. Premeasure 1/2 pint of STP, dump it in the tube and go have a cup of coffee. Heck, go to work. By the time you come home, you should be good to go. I really don't know how long it takes as I've never done it but I've heard it take a while. It will really cut down on the grinding. You might even want to mix a little gear lube in. Some folks like to do that as well.

I hope this answers your question and again, sorry I keep popping in. Just trying to help spread what little knowledge I actually have. You'll find, the deeper you get into these tractors, the more you learn, the less you'll know.

[skippytdi]

Hi Jeff, thanks for the info, once again.
I didn't mean it like that. I pretty much meant what you said, as in all answers answered by Jeff cause he knows the most. I have no problems with you answering all the questions. I feel kinda bad since it seems to me like i'm trying to squeeze info out of you.
I was in the dark regarding my 1614, but you've helped pull me out of it enough to see some light.
Thanks.
mike

[skippytdi]

You'll find, the deeper you get into these tractors, the more you learn, the less you'll know.

Stupid story, when i attended a community college for automotive technology years ago, the student who "knew" the most about cars showed up to shop class in sandals... He was a nice guy but i always thought that was pretty funny.
Once you know everything you stop asking questions, and once you stop asking questions you stop learning. Who ever thought learning could be so sneaky and mysterious?
Jeff, have you ever seen a PK where the owner put in a multi-way valve and a bunch of hydraulic outlets. I've got this hydraulic dump 3-point carry tote that i was building for one of my deeres, but its too cumbersome and large for the 140's. I eventually wanted to have a hydraulic top link, the hydraulic lift and a seperate set of hydraulic outlets to the rear of the tractor. I couldn't see any reason why it couldn't be done but maybe you know something i don't.
Thanks.
Mike

[cajun66]

Hey Jeff, you are welcome to keep answering away. I'm grateful for how quickly I get responses.

[jas11964]

Mike,

Your story isn't stupid at all. In fact, it rings true in so many ways. I don't know everything there is to know about these tractors and I'll never tell you different. I am only too happy to share what I do know and help where I can. I know how you meant your comment. I was just ribbing you a little.

To answer your latest question, no, I haven't seen the multiple valve set up UNLESS you are talking about literally have more than one physical hydraulic valve. That's the way my FEL is set up. I have a two lever valve for the loader and the stadard single lever under the seat for the rear hitch. You could do it that way or get a whole different valve and pipe it all out of the same place. I see no reason why it wouldn't work. Now the pump is different on my FEL tractor than it is on my other one. The standar 3 1/2 GPM (or something close) pump is too slow for the FEL so they used a 7 1/2 GPM pump for that application. Trouble is, that pump is way to fast for the three point. I about throw my counter weight over my head!

Cajun, the only reason you get fast responses is that I work on the computer everyday (I'm in PA and my job is in Alabama) and I'm on this site WAAAAAYYY too much!:ROF

[skippytdi]

Jeff, the gpm issue was my next question.
As for the valve, i was thinking a four way (two way?) joystick and also keeping the stock valve, which should give me three outlets. Is the 7.5 GPM pump something special, or is it some sort of generic pump i could probably get at Grainger or such? There doesn't appear to be very much depth under the hood between the pump mounting bracket and the back of the dashboard, i was a bit curious about that. Possibly a restrictor placed in my three point connections to slow down the bigger pump? I'm kind of new to hydraulic components (i got a pretty good grasp on the basic theory) so i'm not sure if this is at all possible, i just recall seeing a conversation on hydraulic restrictors on WFM.
Mike


To answer your latest question, no, I haven't seen the multiple valve set up UNLESS you are talking about literally have more than one physical hydraulic valve. That's the way my FEL is set up. I have a two lever valve for the loader and the stadard single lever under the seat for the rear hitch. You could do it that way or get a whole different valve and pipe it all out of the same place. I see no reason why it wouldn't work. Now the pump is different on my FEL tractor than it is on my other one. The standar 3 1/2 GPM (or something close) pump is too slow for the FEL so they used a 7 1/2 GPM pump for that application. Trouble is, that pump is way to fast for the three point. I about throw my counter weight over my head!

[jas11964]

The pumps don't really look any different. I couldn't set two side by side and tell you which is the 7 1/2 GPM pump. My knowledge of hydraulics is probably less than yours but it would make sense to me that a restricter would work. If it did work though, why don't more people use them? I've just gotten used to the rear going up so fast. It's really a non issue unless I want to feather the height of the blade. I keep a 5 foot blade on the back for counterweight. That along with filled oversized tires and wheel weights at 140 pounds each work pretty well. You should nbe able to get pumps through Northern Tool. They have valves as well.

What I want to do someday is something that will probably get me into trouble. My FEL tractor is dedicated to just that, FEL work. It doesn't mow or till or anything else. As a result, I don't have the electric PTO on the front. What I want to do is to mount the hydraulic pump for the FEL directly to the crank shaft of the engine up front. Then get a standard pump piped to the rear in the usual place running off a belt. I don't have what I need in the way of tools to do this work, nor have a found a pump that will work. I'm patient though.

[skippytdi]

Hey Jeff.
How do these tractors ride with loaders?
If i'm reading you right, you are saying that your gonna return the rear hydraulics to stock and run the FEL off the front?
Patience is a very slow lesson. How much is fair compensation, roughly and if you dont mind me asking, for a FEL attachment?
Why is the pump an issue Jeff? Or what i mean to say is in what regards are you having problems in finding a pump to work?
Which tools are you lacking?
mp

[jas11964]

They ride just fine with loaders. Of course, power steering would be a plus but it's not a real issue most of the time.

You're probably looking at between $1500 and $2000 for the used loader attachment basically because nobody wants to give them up too often, Heck, I got my whole machine for $2500 but that came down to $2000 because I traded some parts as well.

Yes, you are reading me right. I want to build a bracket and mount the FEL pump up front. No belts to worry about slipping or pulleys working loose. The pump is an issue because I believe most of the work in the opposite direction as what the engine turns. That may or may not be the case but that's what I was told. The big issue is, I haven't looked too hard yet.:o

I am missing the three Ts. Time, tools and talent. I always add in the M as well, money. I have no welder and no shop. I'm working on the shop part right now. I'll get there. Hopefully before I die.:praying:

[cajun66]

I'm fortunate in that my work truck has a torch, air compressor, and stick welder. And my garage has a gas MIG, compressed air, band saw, and 50 ton press. Too bad a tree knocked out the power to my garage.
But I was able to fab a draw hitch during my lunch break:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g260/cajun66/tractor/hitch.jpg

And I found out that my PK was bought locally in 78.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g260/cajun66/tractor/DSCF2996.jpg

[cajun66]

I would like to actually restore the little tractor but I can't find any replacement decals for the hood or the "Economy Tractor" decal on the nose and dash. Maybe I'll go for a "preservation" instead.

[jas11964]

Try this place and see if they have the decals you need. Being a 78, the sides should probably say Power King as the Economy name was pretty much dropped by them. I think I may have a 78 brochure. I'll see what the hoods say when I get a few minutes.

[jas11964]

Whoops, forgot the link. Sorry, wife walked by and said something. Lost my train of thought.

http://www.powerking.info/