TO-30 vs Wingnut

[Wingnut]

Repairs to the Block

During the cleaning and inspection process I found a crack between each cylinder.

This is a problem with the Contenial Gas Engines on the TO-20 and TO-30
a crack bridges each cylinder.

Ferguson had a factory fix it was drilling a hole through the block in between the cylinders at the half-way point of the sleeves and installing a threaded rod. (According to Mr.Miller the tractor). I chose not to use this method!

The crack in the top of the block are easy to fix with ThermSteel cold weld. If the cold weld compound fails the Head gaskets will prevent any water from escaping. This block has wet sleeve that are being replaced the other crack is on the bottom were the O-rings on the sleeve will seal to the block. Is ThermoSteel once again kneeing with my thumb into the crack (hair-line fracture) and cleaning off the excess after it cures.

I know what alot of y'all are saying right now "Cold weld compound to fix a cast iron block your crazy wingnut!"

I took the block to a machine shop, the owner who is a friend of mine since 1980 told me that it would cost $350 to fix the welds. He told me that I could fix the block with a cold weld compound like Fluid Weld or ThermoSteel (JB Weld would not handle the Hi-Temp). We fix the block right on his counter using the ThermoSteel ($7 a 3 oz bottle). The Fluid Weld works on Aluminum or cast iron ($27 a 3 oz bottle). He told me he would buy tractor from me for $3500 if it failed.

So I am thinking "Wow he giving me incentive to pour water in oil after I get tired of the Fregy" ROF ROF

BTW Since the cracks went all the way through chamber to the next, there was no more stress so there was no reason to drill on the block.

[Wingnut]

Okay I am backing up here a little bit.

During the task of removing the sleeves from the block and having a malfunction on my slide hammer that mangled my right index finger. For that reason I lost interest in taking some pictures of the removal process and working on the tractor was a low priority. I spent the next 2 days ranting and raving leaving my finger in ice or picking fragments that were one a finger nail (one day this will seem funny ROF; :fing20: Right!).

So here I am with a little bit more worst for wear; I starting taking pictures again, but a little bit has happen and I will back track when I can. I used a high pressure washer to clean the block and repair some cracks.

[Wingnut]

More pictures of the block and measuring the front bearing bore of the camshaft. Sorry I would have better pictures but I am right now all alone!

So now it is time to do some final cleaning and installing part in the hot sun wishing I built a pole barn :bonk:

[Wingnut]

Tomorrow, I order my parts woohooo!
Monday they shall be delivered.
I guess during the wait I could have a barn raising!

[mla2ofus]

OK wingnut, I understand your other thread about Fluid-Weld in another thread. If your machinist friend has that much faith in it or thermosteel I'd definitely go for it, tho it sounds like you you already are.
Good luck with it,
Mike

[Wingnut]

Camshaft Inspection was really straight forward on cam.

The Good News: The distributor drive gear looked great no-heavy wear or broken teeth!


If any of the cam lobes show signs of excessive wear, pitting, scoring or other damage, the camshaft should be replaced!


The Bad News: the pointed side of my scraper in the picture shows the the top of the lobe has worn down to the softer metal. The cam lobes no longer have a mirrored finish due to the excessive pitting also the bearing races are scorn!

Time for a new camshaft!

[Wingnut]

Today I am spending my time cleaning and inspecting the Head.

More picture later to come!

[Wingnut]

I am not going to waste my time measuring the valves or the valve springs, because I am getting new ones. I will be replace the valves and inspecting and measuring the valve seats and guides.

Any comments?

[draddogs]

Any comments?

Nope.. I think you have a good handle on the situation. Great pics Wingnut. Looking forward to when you start it up.:fing32:

[Wingnut]

I wasn't being lazy (okay maybe I was) it was my mom's birthday, so I haven't really worked on the TO-30 since yesterday.

I did take the manifold of the head which came off really easy tomorrow I will pull the valves and pressure wash the manifold some more.

[Wingnut]

Much to my to my surprise and delight (if you could call it that) the nuts on the manifold were not seized! I know that is something alot of you can relate too.

I almost forgot to take picture of the valve removal task. As you see in the picture of a C-clamp looking thing is actually Universal Valve Remover Tool (vintage late 40's early 50's). They are worth every penny of their price, so if you find one at a flea market buy it!

This was my last valve to remove, there were 2 types of valves used on the Contental Engine, The intake use the standard valve retainers and keys, the exhaust valve used rotocaps and pins. The picture is the removal of a rotocap and pin.

[Wingnut]

The anatomy of a very tired head!

Look at the shiney ring that is a functioning Valve seat.
Look at the other 3 rings they're dulled by carbon deposite from years of use! My horsepower was being robbed during the Compression and Power cycle!
You could feel air being blown out air-filter instead of being sucked in when the tractor was running!

Basic cycle of a 4 cycle engine:
INTAKE - Fuel and air enters (through intake valve) the cylinder by piston's downward motion causing a vacuum
COMPRESSION - Fuel and air is compessed by piston's upward motion to top of the cylinder (valves are closed)
POWER (ignition) - Fuel and air mixture is exploded forcing the piston down (valve are closed)
EXHAUST - The exhaust is force out of the cylinder by the piston upward motion (through exhaust valve)

That was the 4 cycle in a nut shell for those who are not motorheads

[Wingnut]

The rotocap valve has a pin hole machine in the stem.

The standard retanier key has a slot machined on the stem.

Rotocaps never really gained in popularity, they were suppose to be troublefree and required less service. I really don't see much of a benefit using rotocaps over retanier keys. I have only run across rotocaps used in a large stationary diesel engine that produce the electricity for Brady Texas.

[Wingnut]

Wire brushed the the head found no crack and the valve seats look good, I will clean up the seats tomorrow. I also checked the head (and block) with a straight edge no warpage beyond spec.

[Wingnut]

Time to order parts:
Comprehensive Overhaul Kit - Made by TISCO. For TO30 with Continental Z129 engine, overbore to 3 3/8". Pin type intake, key type exhaust valves. Carburetor kit is for Marvel-Schebler. Bearing sizes available in kit are standard or .010", .020" .030" undersize. Comprehensive
Overhaul Kit includes: Sleeve, piston and ring kit, Complete overhaul gasket set including crank seals, Connecting rod bearings, Main bearings, Pin bushings, Exhaust valves, Intake valves, Valve guides, Valve springs, Valve keys, Fan belt, Oil pump repair kit, Oil filter element, Air cleaner hose, Radiator hoses upper and lower, Distributor points, Distributor condenser, Spark plugs and Basic carburetor kit.

Camshaft with Nut - For TO30, Z129 Continental engine

New or Rebuilt Crankshaft for Z129 Continental engine

Air filter (oil bath)

Clutch Disc

Steering Boots

This should cost me a Mint!

[Wingnut]

I spent $1298.89 on parts today.
So this means I will have spent $2400 on everything!
New Hydralics
New Engine
New Tires

[CatDaddy]

Ouch! :omg:

So, how pricey were the crank & cam? Were they hard to find?

Well, at least you're on the road to reconstruction. :congrats:

[Wingnut]

The Crank was $500
Cam was $150
Main Berings $115

No body had any regound cranks in stock they would have been $375 and a 4 week wait! Them bearings ouch!

[Volfandt]

Sounds like a serious undertaking. I used to have a 48 TE-20. I never had to do anything as major to it but it was easy to work on. I worked it disc'n, plowing, carrying stuff with a rear scoop and running a 5' bushhog for 15 yrs. Never did upgrade it to 12v's as the 6v worked fine. On the coldest mornings I'd use a syringe to squirt gas directly into the carb, it would start every time. Now that I've sold it, I miss it!

Good luck with your rebuild.
Volfandt

[Wingnut]

It is the first engine rebuild I have done in 11 years, the last engine I rebuilt was a 1976 MGB, so it has been fun, but if I did for a living the fun would probably go away quickly. I would have to sell the tractor for at least $2800 to make it worth my while. I plan to use the heck out of it before I sell it!

[Carl]

From the condition of the engine parts, you have a very experienced tractor.

Just to let you know, I think that your extensive overhaul/rebuild is the way to go. I have done a number of repairs where I just didn't have the money to spend. It is a crap shoot whether or not they last.

You will have the satisfaction of knowing that it will last for many years.

[Wingnut]

From the condition of the engine parts, you have a very experienced tractor.

Just to let you know, I think that your extensive overhaul/rebuild is the way to go. I have done a number of repairs where I just didn't have the money to spend. It is a crap shoot whether or not they last.

You will have the satisfaction of knowing that it will last for many years.

I don't like losing in the old crap shoot. When I tried to do repairs when I don't have the luxury of money and/or time it has always come back to bite me. It's always best to do it right the first time, but unfortunately we are mostly stuck with "Situation Dictates Methods" Then Murphy's Law tends to screw us over and over.

[Wingnut]

Got the Main and Rod bearing today not bad 22 hour turn around from the time I had ordered.

[draddogs]

Sounds like you have just about have all thats needed for the job at hand.
That is absolutely a quick turn around on the parts. I ordered the complete gear box for our land pride on monday and it was in yesterday.. Andf I thought that was quick.. What a quick job that did on 700 bucks.

Ok Wing nut it's two days later and no sound of a TO 30 running ROF You knew I just had to say that. So how is it coming along ? I know about time as I never seem to have enough. Hope alls well w/ the ongoing job.

[Wingnut]

I am waiting for the crank and cam shaft to come in from Iowa.

So I am in a wait state for those minor parts and squirrels are stealing Jesus chips and 1 oil pan bolt as I sit here!

[jodyand]

I am waiting for the crank and cam shaft to come in from Iowa.

So I am in a wait state for those minor parts and squirrels are stealing Jesus chips and 1 oil pan bolt as I sit here!


I have been waiting for you to finish before i posted in here. But you are doing a fine job with it and keeping us all up to date. Now about the squirrels and the reason I'm posting now. ROF Its time to get the 22 out and get rid of them :sterb004:

[draddogs]

See the animals......the animals are your friends....

Waiting....Well it gives you time to reflect.

[Wingnut]

TO-30 on the move with help form an 64 year old Allis Chamlers Model C!

I have got sick of working in the field with the 100 tempartures. The tools and parts are getting too darn hot to handle.

I also wanted a cleaner area to start the assembly process. So I am moving to the shady spot on driveway.

[Wingnut]

As I sit here waiting for the Fed-EX guys to show up with my parts.

So I took pictures of the backside of the TO-30

[Wingnut]

I have cleaned up the Head and did some course lapping in the valve seats. The pits buffed right.

The Fed-EX ground are waiting to give me the parts in the middle of the hottest part of the day, I need new valve guides in and fine lap the seats with the new valves and the head will be complete!

[dirtybernie]

wingnut. where you showed pics of the front end being all bent up what are your plans for it? bernie.

[Wingnut]

The hood and the fenders are going to need some dents pulled!

[Wingnut]

wingnut. where you showed pics of the front end being all bent up what are your plans for it? bernie.

The front end took a pretty bad hit causing the front axle to brake, it more mangled, and broken than bent. Like I said before the person who worked on it before me knew enough to be dangerous. The repairs caused more damage than the accident. Look at the welds (for lack of a better word) a welder didn't do that!

The front axle was adjustable and it will be again. It going to take a lot of grinding, cutting, and welding.

[Wingnut]

More stuff that kind of looks like welding on the stablizer.

Why do I have a Snow Plow linkage on the frontend I have had an accumulation of a foot and a half of snow in 30 years here!

I was thinking that he blade on the front and that screw up the frontend, by using the wround kind of equipment to do a job. Everything else points to Half-A$$ work!

[dirtybernie]

WOW! :fing20: yes you have your work cut out for you on that one! i hope you post pics of that repair when the time comes. :fing32: