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: Any appliance repair types out there?


steve42
08-08-2005, 01:38 PM
It appears that I am in the market for a new dishwasher.

Our old Whirlpool (which was in the house in 1999 when we bought it) began flaking out about 6 months ago. The buttons on the panel are all electronic, and the only button we ever used ("Normal" setting) started requiring multiple presses to start washing. Now it's dead.

I tore it apart (cause I'm a guy, that's why!) and here's what I found (http://www.peachnetwork.com/troubleshooting ).

The offending part runs $140+. :omg: That's a tough sell when new dishwashers start at $170.

I've had one person (a novice repairman) tell me to stick with the Whirlpool brands (Whirlpool, Roper, Estate, Inglis) as opposed to the GE brands (GE, Americana, Hotpoint) based on the percentage of calls he's been on, but he's only one person.

We don't need a feature-packed unit. We do "normal"... no china or pots and pans settings for us. I'm leaning toward the electromechanical controls to get away from the possibility of similar failures.

Anyway, any of you folks have any experience?

Any word you can give me would be appreciated.

simple_john
08-08-2005, 02:18 PM
i know nothing about repairing.. but id like to think you should get more than 6 years out of a big ticket appliance?

when we built here i got the best kitchenaid dishwasher i could find... Why? my mother had one for 25 years and it never broke down... so i figured it was the way to go... its going on 7 years and no problems at all so far..

the next year her dishwasher finally broke, she went out and bought a kenmore for about 250$ less than id spent... to be honest, i like hers better...


But 6 years is not long enough for an appliance IMO

jim235
08-08-2005, 02:27 PM
s_j FWIW You can't buy, based on past performance of "old" units. Just too many changes in the market these days. Basiclly, it's just take a chance with about all items now. ;( As for Steves unit...was that a new unit in a new house?? Or...an old unit, in a resale home?
Regards...Jim

dirtybernie
08-08-2005, 02:32 PM
i know nothing about repairing.. at least your honest SJ ROF ROF

bontai Joe
08-08-2005, 03:14 PM
My dish washer is named Beverly (daughter) and until she graduates school, and gets her own place, that is one of her household chores. :fing32:

bontai Joe
08-08-2005, 03:16 PM
Do you know why the bride wears white? So the new dishwasher will match the stove! :bannana: ROF :bannana: ROF :bannana:

steve42
08-08-2005, 03:17 PM
s_j FWIW You can't buy, based on past performance of "old" units. Just too many changes in the market these days. Basiclly, it's just take a chance with about all items now. ;( As for Steves unit...was that a new unit in a new house?? Or...an old unit, in a resale home?
Regards...Jim

It was a 1994/96 era unit in that was installed in a home we bought in 1999. The previous owners sold their souls to the company store at the power company and put in a new Whirlpool Fridge, Range, Oven and Dishwasher in when they were remodeling a couple of years prior.

This was probably a $450.00 dishwasher new.

mbkerk
08-08-2005, 03:23 PM
Steve... I admire you for tearing into the DW. I do all of my own appliance repair. I have all Maytag appliances. The oldest are my washer and dryer pair bought new in 1987. For the most part they have been trouble free, requiring minor replacement parts, general maintenance items.

If I were you, I would replace any cheap easily attainable electronic parts you might suspect are bad, and if that fails and the rest of the DW is in good shape I would try to find the control module at a lesser price somewhere.

Some good resources I use...

http://www.cheapapplianceparts.com

http://www.fixitnow.com/

http://www.repairclinic.com/

Good luck, Keep us informed!

Steve (Magnolia, TX)
08-08-2005, 04:52 PM
Steve... I admire you for tearing into the DW. I do all of my own appliance repair. I have all Maytag appliances. The oldest are my washer and dryer pair bought new in 1987. For the most part they have been trouble free, requiring minor replacement parts, general maintenance items.

If I were you, I would replace any cheap easily attainable electronic parts you might suspect are bad, and if that fails and the rest of the DW is in good shape I would try to find the control module at a lesser price somewhere.

Some good resources I use...

http://www.cheapapplianceparts.com

http://www.fixitnow.com/

http://www.repairclinic.com/

Good luck, Keep us informed!

I like the RepairClinic. They've got a "Parts Detective" that'll help you troubleshoot the issues and they've got good parts availability. I've not done a lot of price comparison, but I have compared thier prices to Sears (for Kenmore appliances) and RepairClinic was considerably less...

HTH

Ken in NJ
08-08-2005, 05:44 PM
My GE electronic control dishwasher started acting weird after 3 years, touch controls did nothing .. except flash .. I opened the front and saw that moisture was getting in the control panel .. I used a hair drier .. and hit everything for about 20 mins ... put it back together .. and it has not missed a beat since ...

I should have bought the good old push button type .. but no .. we had to have the " GE PROFILE " one with 2050 different setting on it .. and all the fancy LED lights ... I have not ONCE seen anything more then the NORMAL cycle used ..

May be worth a dry to hit with the hair drier ?? Better then new parts ,, that may not be needed

Goodluck .. let us know how you make out :bannana:

Mickey
08-08-2005, 05:58 PM
Steve how good are you with electronic's repair? Got a multimeter?

My first guess is the problem is with the keypad pcb. These are typ very cheap qlty and switch contacts fail within a few yrs.

If you have a meter and know how to use, I would check for continuity between each of the switches when actuated. Should be very few ohms resistance. You might find the switch in question is not making contact when actuated. from the pics it's hard to tell what kind of tech is being used for the switches. If it is the switch you might be able to make repairs to get it working again. I've had good luck repairing membrane switch with conductive rubber contacts.

I'm not sure which component you are referenceing as VR1 but in the last pic the large white blocky object is a power resister. Likely at least a 5 watt in size. The pcb could get heat damaged from close proximety to the resister but wouldn't think this is source of your problem.

Another source of a fx is to check the yellow pages and see if there is a used appliance shop in the area and they might have a servicable part at not too may $$$

Hate to spend the big bucks for a part that cost nearly half the price of a new unit. Good luck.

Archdean
08-08-2005, 07:52 PM
A different view point for your consideration!

"Our old Whirlpool (which was in the house in 1999 when we bought it)
And The offending part runs $140+. :omg: That's a tough sell when new dishwashers start at $170.

Admiting and noting that it is now six years old ++ (we dont know) based on your post it would cost you at a minumum of $00.06 cents a day to repair it or if a new one at $450.00 for an averageg life span for six to seven years at $00.17 cents per day!!

I bought a new one and 0ne month later I had to wire the timer housing closed (solid) with aviation safety wire and has worked perfectly ever since!! So much for the warranty!! IT was just much eaiser for me to do it then the villiage Fellow!!

I'd buy a new one and carry on from that point!!

Ingersoll444
08-09-2005, 05:56 AM
A few things...

Dont fix the old dishwasher. For the price difference its not worth it. Pluss the new ones are SOOOO much quiter. I have a Fridgerair in my new house, and wile it is not entry level, it is in noway top of the line. When its running you cant eaven hear it unless the house is dead quite, and how often does that happan.


As for repairing other stuff.

The web sites are good for walking you through repairs, but one thing I have lucked into is a place localy that sells parts, and has been in the biz for years. He will help us buy telling us what goes bad a lot, and make sure we get the right parts, and also any stuff we may also need. He has been a god send, and I have repaired many a washer, and dryer with his help.

JDFANATIC
08-09-2005, 07:33 AM
We have a Maytag Plus II all electronic d/w and the touch screen has been replaced 4 times under warranty. When I asked if this was normal on the 4th replacement, the techie said "no" as I watched him install a new insulated exhaust diverter that insulated the control panel from the steam and moisture. 5 years later we have had no failures, although the touch screen shows some moisture under the LED's.

Cheers

JDFANATIC
JD2210

steve42
08-09-2005, 10:08 AM
If I were you, I would replace any cheap easily attainable electronic parts you might suspect are bad, and if that fails and the rest of the DW is in good shape I would try to find the control module at a lesser price somewhere.

I found out that the fuse on the electronic control is definitely bad. The resistor on the control module that I suspect is supposed to have a resistance of 935 ohms. I don't know exactly how to read the ohmmeter portion of my VOM, but on the 2K setting, it reads .908.

http://www.peachnetwork.com/troubleshooting/images/3375556_3.jpg

I can get the fuse and harness from Repairclinic.com for about $12 plus shipping.

I can also get a new controller from an e-bayer of $95, but the seller is one of those guys who won't take the part back if it's not defective.

I found a used electronic controller from affordableappliance.com for $70 and the owner is the one who told me to look at the fuse. I couldn't even tell it was a fuse until he told me where it was. He's also the one that gave me the details on the resistor.

The guy from Repairclinic.com (which I typically love) didn't mention the fuse as a possibility when I posted my question. Neither did the e-bayer.

The fact that affordableappliance.com's guy is willing to make the smaller (fuse) sale in the interest of making the customer happier long-term goes a long way with me.

The two new prices he's quoted me so far are in line with Repairclinic.

My gut instinct is that the resistor failed and that's what caused the thermal fuse to blow. I'm waiting for confirmation on my reading of the VOM to make my decision.

steve42
08-09-2005, 10:12 AM
I like the RepairClinic. They've got a "Parts Detective" that'll help you troubleshoot the issues and they've got good parts availability. I've not done a lot of price comparison, but I have compared thier prices to Sears (for Kenmore appliances) and RepairClinic was considerably less...

HTH

As mentioned above, I love them. They gave me the advice I needed to repair my icemaker and also the info I needed to troubleshoot my DW pump/motor a few years ago when a screw from a pot-lid fell out and made it's way all the way inside the impellor. I held the thing upside down, the screw fell out, and the pump worked fine after that.

I just hate that when I posed my question this time he didn't tell me to check the fuse as a troubleshooting step. Because the fuse blades were facing me (see the top of the picture above), I simply never noticed it was a fuse.

steve42
08-09-2005, 10:15 AM
My GE electronic control dishwasher started acting weird after 3 years, touch controls did nothing .. except flash .. I opened the front and saw that moisture was getting in the control panel .. I used a hair drier .. and hit everything for about 20 mins ... put it back together .. and it has not missed a beat since ...

I should have bought the good old push button type .. but no .. we had to have the " GE PROFILE " one with 2050 different setting on it .. and all the fancy LED lights ... I have not ONCE seen anything more then the NORMAL cycle used ..

May be worth a dry to hit with the hair drier ?? Better then new parts ,, that may not be needed

Goodluck .. let us know how you make out :bannana:

Moisture was my first suspect as well, but no evidence of that when I pulled the panel. I couldn't even get lights.

Steve (Magnolia, TX)
08-09-2005, 10:17 AM
I found out that the fuse on the electronic control is definitely bad. The resistor on the control module that I suspect is supposed to have a resistance of 935 ohms. I don't know exactly how to read the ohmmeter portion of my VOM, but on the 2K setting, it reads .908.

I can get the fuse and harness from Repairclinic.com for about $12 plus shipping.

I can also get a new controller from an e-bayer of $95, but the seller is one of those guys who won't take the part back if it's not defective.

I found a used electronic controller from affordableappliance.com for $70 and the owner is the one who told me to look at the fuse. I couldn't even tell it was a fuse until he told me where it was. He's also the one that gave me the details on the resistor.

The guy from Repairclinic.com (which I typically love) didn't mention the fuse as a possibility when I posted my question. Neither did the e-bayer.

The fact that affordableappliance.com's guy is willing to make the smaller (fuse) sale in the interest of making the customer happier long-term goes a long way with me.

The two new prices he's quoted me so far are in line with Repairclinic.

My gut instinct is that the resistor failed and that's what caused the thermal fuse to blow. I'm waiting for confirmation on my reading of the VOM to make my decision.

If that resistor is still on the circuit board, you are probably getting an invalid reading... to accurately read the value of a resistor, you'll need to remove it from the circuit board. If you're careful, with a decent soldering iron and a pair of needle-nose pliers, you can take that resistor out (or at least one lead) and measure its value. If it doesn't meet specification, then you've already got it out... if it does, then carefully put it back in...

I'm right there with you on your feelings regarding the fella at affordableappliance.com... You just might want to check Radio Shack for that fuse (and maybe even the resistor, too)... you just might find one locally for a buck or 2...

HTH

steve42
08-09-2005, 10:23 AM
Steve how good are you with electronic's repair? Got a multimeter?

As referenced in an earlier reply, I have one, but I am not good with ohms. I use the voltmeter portion for troubleshooting house wiring and checking computer power supplies .

My first guess is the problem is with the keypad pcb. These are typ very cheap qlty and switch contacts fail within a few yrs.

If you have a meter and know how to use, I would check for continuity between each of the switches when actuated. Should be very few ohms resistance. You might find the switch in question is not making contact when actuated. from the pics it's hard to tell what kind of tech is being used for the switches. If it is the switch you might be able to make repairs to get it working again. I've had good luck repairing membrane switch with conductive rubber contacts.

I'll try to check that this evening. The contacts look good. The switches are a metal "finger" with a button contact beneath. I hit the button with a piece of emory paper to make sure there was no corrosion I couldn't see. No luck.

I'm not sure which component you are referenceing as VR1 but in the last pic the large white blocky object is a power resister. Likely at least a 5 watt in size. The pcb could get heat damaged from close proximety to the resister but wouldn't think this is source of your problem.

Yep, that power resistor is the suspect. VR1 is the red object below the black box about 1/2" above the resistor in the photo.

I've checked locally and no one has a used ECC. www.affordableappliance.com has it for $70.

chipmaker
08-09-2005, 10:25 AM
I can understand the part with parts are so high of price its outrageous...I run into that same thing with a just over Side by side fridge/freezer......with water in the door. The little plastic spout that directs the water into a glass cracked and eventually bro9ke off. Its about /4" in diameter, and in a curve approximately 3" OAL.......Can't just buy that little plastic spout, you have to buyt the entire dispensing line kit, at a cost of $161.00.....talk abaout a ripoff.

If you wind up getting a new DW my recomendation would have to go with Kitchen Aide......I acquired one many many years ago that wa already 20+ years old, that was removed for a major remodel....IIRC it was the Imperial Model.......I installed it where I live now and it worked fine up until I was struck with lighning back around 1988.......never cost me a dime and it was working like new at that time. We replaced it with another Kitchen Aide which is now 17 years old and working like a champ.........

On your resistor, there should be a tolerence of + or - so perhaps the reading your getting is still within the limts of the device....Not into electronics per se, but I think your on the right track............

steve42
08-09-2005, 10:26 AM
A different view point for your consideration!

<snip>

Admiting and noting that it is now six years old ++ (we dont know) based on your post it would cost you at a minumum of $00.06 cents a day to repair it or if a new one at $450.00 for an averageg life span for six to seven years at $00.17 cents per day!!

<snip>

I'd buy a new one and carry on from that point!!

Point taken. The other side of the coin is we have a baby #3 on the way. Trying to cut corners anywhere I can. If I could find a new DW with electromechanical controls that had the filtration and everything of the higher priced units, it would be a foregone conclusion. I just hate to buy another fully electronic unit with all the bells and wistles we don't use and have to spend $400 to get it.

steve42
08-09-2005, 10:38 AM
I can understand the part with parts are so high of price its outrageous...I run into that same thing with a just over Side by side fridge/freezer......with water in the door. The little plastic spout that directs the water into a glass cracked and eventually bro9ke off. Its about /4" in diameter, and in a curve approximately 3" OAL.......Can't just buy that little plastic spout, you have to buyt the entire dispensing line kit, at a cost of $161.00.....talk abaout a ripoff.

Yep. The appliance guru at the Prattville Lowe's told me last week that the markup on appliance parts is 161%. I believe it.

Mickey
08-09-2005, 11:01 AM
Steve, if the resister is marked as 935 ohms and you read 908 I wouldn't suspest it of anything. The reading is within 3% of nom and I suspest you don't know the accuracy of your meter. For non-precision resisters 3% is prety close. As for the comment about inaccurate measurement, I wouldn't be so fast is suggesting this. If the pcb wasn't plugged into anything and you took the measurement on either side of the resister, I would trust the reading as it is as close as it is. VR typ stands for varible resistance so not being at nom isn't anything to worry about.

As for the failed fuse, do you have a electronic supply store anywhere close? If so I would check with them. I would find it hard to believe this component is a custom part just for this application. It may have custom leads or something but the fuse itself is something readily available. At least they could give you an idea what the cost is.

**** it tough getting old and the things you knew well yesterday you don't reconize today.

chipmaker
08-09-2005, 07:32 PM
Steve if you need electronic parts try Handys down on Court Street towards Sables Scrap yard...........or across from the "Biscuits" stadium...what a &^%$#(! name for a baseball team................

steve42
08-10-2005, 09:22 AM
I got some good news yesterday. The guy from www.affordableappliance.com dropped back a step and asked me if I had tested the door switches, as those are the primary interlocks for the unit's power.

I hooked the other components back into the door and jumpered the door switches. When I put power to the unit, I got a light on the door panel. Just out of curiousity, I held the door closed, hit the "Normal" button and the motor kicked in. :bannana:

So it's the door switch that's gone bad, not the control console.

I'll be ordering those switches today.

Now if I can get the door back together. :fing20: