wingnut vs TO 30

[mla2ofus]

Just curious what you found on the oil press. issue.
Mike

[Wingnut]

The oil pressure gauge was reading less than 5 psi (the first time I started it was 15 psi). I removed the line from the engine hooked the gauge to air tank with 20 psi and read correctly. Then I started the engine didn't get a trickle oil out were the connected to the engine. I removed the fuel tank and pulled the valve cover and found the valve train to be dry (not good). Removed the oil pan and found the typical amount of metal sediment you would find on an 50 year old tractor, but there was a big dent in the oil pan that restricted the flow of oil getting into the pump.

[Wingnut]

I promised Durwood I would document on the TO-30

Tuesday Aug 8 and 3:30 pm BigorangeDan and I started the working on the Harry Ferguson. Removed the Hood, Gas Tank, Disconnected the Battery and removed the valve cover and oil pan.

On the rocker arm assembly oil was very sparc, not enough oil pressure to reach the head.

[Wingnut]

Removing the head I discovered large amounts of deposit on the exhaust valves. The number 3 cylinder exhaust valve was burnt and split.

There was a valve imprint on the number piston. I also discovered the piston were all put on facing the wrong direction. They did have a 50-50 chance on putting them in right :fing20:

BigorangeDan removing the steering linkage!

If you look on the left side iof the head you can see rust going up and into push rod journal. The old leak head gasket!

[Wingnut]

Split the Tractor in half using a Harbor Freight ATV jack to hold the back half the tractor up. I used a Boom Pole (or stinger) to pick up the engine and front axle.

Found a bird nest in the bell housing and the rear oil seal was leaking. There lots of greesey kid stuff in housing to clean up. I also the the replace the clutch that soak up alot of oil.

The front adjustable axles have been welded together because of a crack. Somebody and screwed up the whole frontend.

Need to get a 1-16" impact socket tomorrow so finish removing the steering assembly from the block.

Tomorrow tear the rest of the engine apart and inspect the crank and camshafts.

Total time spent was 4 hours today!

[Ingersoll444]

Its amazing what some people do. The old owners sound like so real butchers!!!!


Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Wingnut]

The weather didn't cooperate with me today, it rained all morning.
Was able to remove the front axle from the block (cutting the last bolt off).
Then I put the attached to block to my old Lakewood engine stand.

Tomorrow I plan to remove the governor, crankshaft, and camshaft inspect and mic

The front axle is going to need alot of work, both radius rods have cracked in half and had angle iron was used to repair them. The front axle was butchered and welded together using very weak amperage and no longer adjustable. The steer boots also need to be replaced.

Sorry no pictures today I will take some and post them tomorrow!

[Wingnut]

As I dig deeper into the engine I keep asking myself "Why haven't you built a Pole Barn yet?" Yes working on ths engine outdoors is fun! ROF

I haven't seen a Crankshaft this worn since I rebuilt a Detroit Diesel with 875,000 miles on it! You can rub you fingers across it and feel all the peaks and valleys on the main and rob bearings! So it is time to get a crank turned!

The Camshaft is also worn out and very pitted!

The pistons looked pretty good for there age, but the pistons were put in backwards (or the block was but in backwards ROF) I did like the way the piston ring were lined up :fing20: and I was wondering why it was burning so much oil :00000060:

Need to cook block, turn crank, shave head, and buy parts. Oh yeah and build that damn pole barn!

[Wingnut]

Its amazing what some people do. The old owners sound like so real butchers!!!!


Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't think he was a butcher I think he had nuff knowledge to be dangerous!

[Wingnut]

Completed the disassembly of the Z129 engine and I don't like what I see!

The Rod bearing where manufactured in 2000 and are .020 under.
The Main bearing where manufacture in 1968 and are .020 under.
All the bearings have burned and the crankshaft has too much wear to turn. I don't use cranks the are .040 undersize.
The crankshaft to be turn and fitted with .040 bearings will cost $378 (the bearing are special order and that up the price $168)
A new crankshaft cost $398. New is better!
A new camshaft cost $110
Piston, Sleeves, the whole nine yards rebuild kit $560
Rebuild Cost $1068
Tractor so far $1029
Total Cost $2097

[Roadrunner]

Wing Nut,

Looks like you have yourself a nice project. Love the old Ferggies! I have a TO 35, 1955 year model I restored. Great Tractor. Looks like you had the same shade tree mechanic that worked on your Ferggie that worked on the Pony I picked up in Canada! A lot of shade tree stuff done to it too. Like you said the guy knew enough to be dangerous!

Good luck with the rebuild.

[Ingersoll444]

Ohhh thats a tough hit on the crank. Now I dont know about that motor, but some motors can be saftly cut .040 and eaven more. I always thought .020 was the most I would go, till I heard that guys are cutting 1/2 INCH off the mains on Ford 351W cranks for HP useadge!!! [granted they DO have a 3" main, and most V8 run about 2 1/2"]

Have you looked into used parts? Agean I dont know a ton about that motor, but I did do some shopping for TO30's and never heard of one with a warn cam. Maybe you can find a std/std crank that needs its first cut[I just paid $100 to have my N crank cut .010/.020] and a nice used cam. Just a tought that might save a few bucks.

[Wingnut]

Its alot easy to find the ford "N" parts than the Contental Z129 motor!
I am using my price referrences from Valu-Bilt Tractor Parts which is prices on the high end. I actually buy my parts from Woods-Tisco Part and they have cost me 10-25% than Valu-bilt.

Example Valu-bilt sells a 9N, 2N, 8N Short Block (with front mounted distributor) for $1585 plus $300 core charge. Does that seem like a pretty high price to you?
Now if the place get parts from in Taylor Texas can find me a short block for my Fergy under $1100 I will get that instead!

As for the camshaft the lobes were worn out of shape through years of uses as well as being pitted. I haven't micometer the cam bearing yet; visiually they looked better than the main bearings.

I can't order parts until tomorrow, the place I order from is close on Saturdays. So I am going to watch the cowboy games and smoke a brisket for the next 7 hours! Football and BBQ that the way to spend a Saturday!

[Roadrunner]

Wing Nut,

Have you tried Spare X in Ohio? They carry a lot of old tractor parts at good prices. They compete with the Tisco's and give good service.

You can reach them at (800) 443-6472. You also might want to try A & I Products out of Iowa. They have some of the older parts too. You can reach them at (712) 476-5119

KL

[draddogs]

So this sounds like a major motor over haul. What do polls know anyway.

Wingnut, I agree w/ your view on the 20 over as a max on the crank especially on a motor used for grunt power.

For the price of a short block it sounds as if you would rather replace the block than do major renovation of the old. If the price is right it would save many man hours and a few %()^( along the way.

IMO Iwould replace cam bearing when I go into a motor as far as you are. Just a safer bet that the future will hold no suprises of premature cam failure.

Either way you go will be a pleasure to check in and follow your progress.

[Wingnut]

I have removed the sleeves os now it is time for the cleaning and inspection of the block! If the block fails there a short block in my near future!
The TO-30 was well used, abused, and drowned; I am going to get it running better than new.

Will it be worth it?

[draddogs]

Wingnut, keep us up to date as you know how we geet around here with out pictures of your progress...............

[Wingnut]

Situation Dictates Methods: When cleaning the block and quick of the head, I didn't follow my training. I washed off all the grime, crud, loose paint, and some stuff that was oil at one time it's life.

The cam bearing are not serviceable so if they don't meet specs the block can't be used. So as soon as measure them, my decision on what to do next will be made!

As for the Head it cleaned up very nice to start working on it. I sprayed some low pressure into the exshaust manifold (I was clean the head to remove manifold lots of rural greesey kid stuff) and 2 of the valves allowed to seep through! There a valve seating issue there!

[Wingnut]

Yeeehaw!!!! The Block falls within specs and is rebuildable!

But if a short-block cost less I will by that answer on rebuilding will be tomorrow!

[draddogs]

Glad that the block is in spec. Now if the overhaul is cheaper that the short blk it is advisable to rebuild but if its the other way around then the time factor is a consideration. Good job there Wingnut.