0w-40

[firefighter5143]

Hello, Hopefully and easy question. I have a engine that calls for 0w-40. I have never seen this before. Does the 0w mean the same thing as say straight 40? Or is there really a meaning to the 0w? Thanks

[Mrwiggles2]

W- is for winter. Additives in the oil let it pour or flow in cold weather. Its a 40wt. oil but has properties that allow it to pour at cold temps. I used to run a 5w40 Rotella in my Passat. Great cold weather startups.

[glurg]

Mobil 1 makes a 0W40.
http://www.mobil.com/Canada-English/Lubes/PDS/IOCAENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.asp

[donsoil]

Hello, Hopefully and easy question. I have a engine that calls for 0w-40. I have never seen this before. Does the 0w mean the same thing as say straight 40? Or is there really a meaning to the 0w? Thanks

Greetings !
The 0W part of the 0W40 is the winter cold flow rating of the oil, and deals with the oils ability to circulate in cold temperatures, and hence provide wear protection in cold starts. It is not the actual viscosity of the oil, it is merely a cold flow rating.
The actual winter cold flow testing temperature will range from
-10 deg. C ( 14 deg. F) to as low as -35 deg. C (-31 deg. F ), and will vary depending on the anticipated SAE "W" grade of the oil being tested.
The higher number of any multi grade engine oil is tested at 212 deg. F, which is very near the normal engine operating temp.
For example the only difference between 15W40 , 10W40 , 5W40 , and 0W40 is the ability of each to flow in the cold, an SAE 15W40 will not cold flow as well as a 10W40, and the 10W40 will not cold flow as well as the 5W40, and the 0W40 outflows them all in cold temps.
When your engine reaches normal operating temperature the viscosity of the 0w40, 5W40, 10W40, and the 15W40 are exactly the same and that would be 40 weight.
Please let me know if this is helpful !
Thank you !
Have a great day !
Don:thThumbsU

[firefighter5143]

Very helpful. So seeing how this is a snowmobile engine it is probably pretty important to use 0w-40 as the manufacture suggests?

Do synthectis, regular oil, or a blend of both (ex durablend) work best in cold weather?

[Bill Kapaun]

Synthetic will be best. It's a matter of personal choice if "next best" is good enough.

Think of the viscosity of water when it's between 33-211 degrees. Pretty much identical.
Synthetics more closely emulate water in this respect.

Blends are a rip off, IMO. You can mix your own at 50-50 and have a much higher percentage of synthetic! Ever notice they DON'T specify the percentage in a blend?

[dgoyette]

Blends are a rip off, IMO. You can mix your own at 50-50 and have a much higher percentage of synthetic! Ever notice they DON'T specify the percentage in a blend?

Good point!

[donsoil]

Very helpful. So seeing how this is a snowmobile engine it is probably pretty important to use 0w-40 as the manufacture suggests?

Do synthectis, regular oil, or a blend of both (ex durablend) work best in cold weather?

It would be wise to stick with 0W40 in your sled.
Chemically engineered synthetics far outperform regular oil and synthetic blends.
Amsoil offers a 0W40 formula 4 stroke for powersports applications, cold pour point is -60 deg. F
If you would like more information or wish to try Amsoil click on my website, all of the spec sheets for Amsoils complete line of lubricants are there also.
Thank you !
Have a great day !
Don

[PopRivit]

Synthetic will be best. It's a matter of personal choice if "next best" is good enough.

Think of the viscosity of water when it's between 33-211 degrees. Pretty much identical.
Synthetics more closely emulate water in this respect.

Blends are a rip off, IMO. You can mix your own at 50-50 and have a much higher percentage of synthetic! Ever notice they DON'T specify the percentage in a blend?

May I ask where you get your information? Most of the blends that I've done a used oil analysis on have returned excellent wear numbers that are as good as a full synthetic, but at a price point that's close to a conventional oil.

Can you provide some data to the contrary?

[Bill Kapaun]

May I ask where you get your information? Most of the blends that I've done a used oil analysis on have returned excellent wear numbers that are as good as a full synthetic, but at a price point that's close to a conventional oil.

Can you provide some data to the contrary?

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm&c=5&PHPSESSID=

[PopRivit]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm&c=5&PHPSESSID=

Thanks for proving my point and providing a link to the proof.

Did you actually research any? Most of the semi-synths (such as Motorcraft) show excellent UOA's assuming they are in the right application and the engine is healthy. Even the Amsoil sponsors on BITOG have a lot of respect for blends, and they were also recommended by Terry Dyson on occasion when he used to post on BITOG.

My question still stands-what's your proof that semi synthetics are a "rip off"?

By the way-over 30 of the UOA's on BITOG are mine and include conventional, semi synth and full synthetic oils.

[Bill Kapaun]

Thanks for proving my point and providing a link to the proof.

Did you actually research any? Most of the semi-synths (such as Motorcraft) show excellent UOA's assuming they are in the right application and the engine is healthy. Even the Amsoil sponsors on BITOG have a lot of respect for blends, and they were also recommended by Terry Dyson on occasion when he used to post on BITOG.

My question still stands-what's your proof that semi synthetics are a "rip off"?

By the way-over 30 of the UOA's on BITOG are mine and include conventional, semi synth and full synthetic oils.

First- What exactly IS your "point"?

Second- I STATED-"Blends are a rip off, IMO. You can mix your own at 50-50 and have a much higher percentage of synthetic! Ever notice they DON'T specify the percentage in a blend?".
What's YOUR evidence to disprove this?

Third- Where did any of my statement(s) cover ANYTHING about "wear numbers"? YOU brought that up and used that in YOUR argument as if it actually had ANYTHING to do with MY statement!

Fourth- You're just trolling! I'm NOT interested!

[cards42]

I'd like to try this Amsoil 0w40 in my New Husqvarna. Seems like Amsoil is the way to go.

[donsoil]

I'd like to try this Amsoil 0w40 in my New Husqvarna. Seems like Amsoil is the way to go.

Greetings !
This new Husqvarna is a 4 cycle ?
If so Amsoil 0W40 will offer the best protection you can buy.
Have a great day !
Don

[Travelingman]

Don i,m a Amsoil DLR as well an have been since 1985 an I was just wondering why would someone use the 0w40 instead of the 10w30sae30 4 stroke ? I use the 0w40 in my 4 wheelers an it does fine but it dozen,t have friction modifiers in it so it want effect wet clutches which in a mower engine thats not a issue . I,m sure it will be fine to use it but I was just wondering if there was a perticular reason why ? Unless without the the friction modifiers the new motor would break in quicker . I usually break in on dino oil then switch over . Anyway have a good one since your a truck mechanic I may PM you in the future about some things .

[donsoil]

Greetings Travelingman !
Either oil will work super in the small engines, however if the unit is still under warranty be sure to use weight specified by the manufacturer.
The 0W40 will offer a little better protection in high temp or extreme conditions.
I use Amsoil ASL 5W30 in all my small engines as I have a 55 gal drum anyway for automotive service, it eliminates the need for stocking the small engine oil, and works beautiful in my small engines for the last 7 years.
Have a great day !
Don

[elhigh]

I've never bothered with the so-called small-engine formulation oils. I didn't see any point. But I'm running a big "small engine" Kawasaki on my Great Dane mower at work, and that thing isn't cheap. I know you're probably going to say Amsoil, but make the pitch anyway. We're a homeless shelter and I'm picking up a few of our vehicle and engine maintenance tabs, so I want to be sure my donation goes as far as it can. Can I just run regular Amsoil in the mowers and suchlike, or do the small-engine formulations really have something useful?

[mechtech]

the 0w-40 and 10w-30 4 stroke oils have considerably higher zinc/phosphorous anti-wear chemistry that these small aircooled engines need when worked hard. sure you can usually do ok with an automotive oil, but remember you sacrifice this added protection if the going gets tough.