Bolens 800 driveshaft woes

[mcanders]

I am rebuilding the driveshaft for my "in progress" Bolens 800. I have installed new bearings front and rear, new clutch disc material, and some fresh paint.
I am having trouble with the clutch play, or not clutch action at all. I got it all mocked up last night and I could not get the discs to seperate at all.

Here's what I found:
1. The usual clutch yoke wear. I am going to get these filled with some welding rod. I hope this is an acceptable method. If not I have another yoke that is not worn so bad.

[mcanders]

Also,
When searching for replacement bearing for the rear yoke assembly. I could not find a bearing that matched the old bearing exactly. What I ended up getting was a bearing that matched the ID and the OD but the length of the inner race was offset about a 1/4". Here's a shot of the shaft. You can see how much farther the yoke is from the clutch flange.

[mcanders]

By the way, got my fenders and seat mounted last night also, at least something went right.

My plans are to flip the bearing in the housing and try to get the yoke plate closer to the flange.

[mcanders]

1. Flipped the bearing housing for the clutch yoke, distance is now about a 1/4-3/8" closer than before.
2. Welded some fill into the clutch yoke.

I will paint the parts this afternoon and reassemble the whole deal. I will let you guys know how it turns out.

[sixchows]

mcanders

I think you should be able to get that bearing NOS. I've gotten NOS ones for my 1050.

[bontai Joe]

I love watching a nice carefull restoration! :fing32:

[mcanders]

Everything went smoothly tonight. I got the reassembled driveshaft painted and installed. I loosened all my adjusting brackets and go out my trusty service manual. I set the pedal to 60 degrees and half push clutch opens 1/16". I also got the lower belt guard and guide painted and installed. I should be able to clean my S8D up this weekend and mount it where it needs to be, up front, not on the floor of the garage.

The bearing was a little weird, the Id and Od were the same but the inner race was offset a little. Not enough to hurt things I dont think.

Man, this clutch pedal is tight and wobble free. I also replaced the sleeve bushings in the frame and pedal. I hate having a floppy pedal. Ought to be good for another 20 or so years! As long as I can keep the oil in and the dirt out.

[mcanders]

Test fit of the S8D engine shows that the belts and belt changer will work correctly. One thing is, the spring on the idler pulley is way to strong. I feel like Im going to bend something. I guess I will have more leverage once the "cockpit" cover is mounted in place.
Now the engine will be cleaned and painted and then reassembled with correct shrouds and tin.

[sixchows]

That's really lookin' good! :fing32:

Another 20-30 years? No problem!

[mcanders]

I guess I dont have my PTO belt yet. I just noticed that in the picture. Isnt the PTO belt like 42-7/8 long X1/2" wide? I will have to check my manuals.

[chipmaker]

I am rebuilding the driveshaft for my "in progress" Bolens 800. I have installed new bearings front and rear, new clutch disc material, and some fresh paint.
I am having trouble with the clutch play, or not clutch action at all. I got it all mocked up last night and I could not get the discs to seperate at all.

Here's what I found:
1. The usual clutch yoke wear. I am going to get these filled with some welding rod. I hope this is an acceptable method. If not I have another yoke that is not worn so bad.


Welding up the worn area is more than aceptable process......

[chipmaker]

I love watching a nice carefull restoration! :fing32:


Joe you need to get up out of that recliner and give the man a helping hand! ya know, get some grease and dirt under those fingernails.... :fing02:

[mcanders]

Just a teaser!!!!

[Mark]

I also own a 800. I am using a TR-10D engine. It throws snow into next week. The welding method is very acceptable. I did it! I have also turned those up side down. That works also. You got me on the bearing question.
Good luck and nice work so far,
Mark

[mcanders]

Do you have any pictures of this snowblowin 800? Id like to see the tr10d mounted on the 800.

[Mark]

I will pull her out of the garage in a day or two and take pictures. I have a disassembled G14 in the way. The TR-10D (or TRA-10D) is pretty much the same size block. It mounts to the frame in the same holes and all of the belt guides fit into holes that are in same location as the S-7D or S-8D. The TR-10D uses an under the flywheel coil so even the wiring is the same. It is a pretty slick swap. How do you post pictures anyway?
Mark

[sixchows]

Mark
You can post pics from www.photobucket.com it's a free service. After you download your pic there click on the lowest link under the pic and copy and paste it into your thread here.

You could also use "manage attachments" here but you will need to downsize the pics. We are also trying to keep bandwidth requirements low so the cost of the site doesn't get out of hand. That's why I suggest photobucket. The pics show up the same here w/o wasting space.

[mcanders]

Mark,
I guess the question is, are you still able to have a hi-low range with the pulley system or is it kinda stuck in one range all the time? Im trying to visualize by combining the different pulleys but I thought on the 10hp the two pulleys were the same size to run two same sized belts.

[Mark]

I just used the pulley off of the S-7D. They are both one inch diameter shafts. Hope this helps,
Mark

[sixchows]

Or you could swap out the tranny like aguysmiley did on his 650.

[aguysmiley]

Actually, I didn't change the whole transaxle. That was my original plan, but the 650 tranny has perfect gears. The gears in the 850 are really tore up. So I just used the axle shaft from the 850 to replace the broken one in the 650.

For the high/low issue, I really love the six speed transaxles with the dual belt drive. I wish all the gear driven tractors had them.

[Mark]

I will try the picture host. Let me know how it works.
[
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/bolensfan/th_a47fb6cc.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/bolensfan/a47fb6cc.jpg)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/bolensfan/th_d9e6e06e.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/bolensfan/d9e6e06e.jpg)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/bolensfan/th_5c68125b.jpg (http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/bolensfan/5c68125b.jpg)

[Mark]

The belt changer works, but I don't have the low speed belt installed. The belt broke and I don't have a need for it.
Mark

[mcanders]

I have heard that the low speed side is too low to use while mowing. I wonder why I spent so much time making sure the changer was sliding and moving freely? I guess I may use when I get into the garden. But I will be using the 800 mostly for mowing.

[sixchows]

I think mowing speed depends mostly on the terrain and the height of the grass. I'm sure there would be times when low 1 or 2 would be needed. As for 3 low and 1 high they almost the same with 1 high being slightly slower.

[Mark]

My complaint about low has to do with reverse. Going backwards in very slow. Third in low is about the same as first in high. Sixchows has it right about mowing speed. I have always thought the three speed was stronger due to the lack of the cluster gear that is in the six speed. The small gear on that shaft is always engaged in high and takes some abuse. I have two broken ones in my shed (not broken by me). Just my $.02.
Mark