View Full Version : Mitsubishi MT372 Hydraulics STUCK!!!
RED-85-Z51
09-27-2006, 11:29 AM
Well, it runs, moves, does it all, but if I move the lift lever UP It snatches the 3 point and Mower deck UP a couple inches to the full UP position. If you move the lever DOWN, it does nothing, and even adding 400 lbs of weight to the 3 point wont move it down. No engine strain, no signs that the lever does anything.
Any ideas?
mark777
09-27-2006, 06:03 PM
The "Fall Rate" valve is closed...OR the hydraulic implement lock is fully clockwise and should be fully CCW.
The fall rate valve increases or reduces the speed of the 3PH. As some implements are heavier than others, the adjustment is made to compensate for speed vs. weight. I'm not exactly sure on your model...but there should be a small (very small) valve with a 'T' or roll pin handle to adjust the rate of fall. This is usually, on many Japanese tractors, near or under the seat. Same with the hydraulic implement & 3PH lock, should be between your legs as your feet sit on the operator platform. Pretty sure your tractor is equipped with both, but I'm not sure where they're located on your Mitsubishi.
BEWARE...IF YOU OPEN THAT VALVE IT WILL DROP WHATEVER IS SUSPENDED ON YOUR THREE POINT HITCH...Man, I mean this thing will come crashing down so please be careful.
Mark
RED-85-Z51
09-27-2006, 07:57 PM
The "Fall Rate" valve is closed...OR the hydraulic implement lock is fully clockwise and should be fully CCW.
The fall rate valve increases or reduces the speed of the 3PH. As some implements are heavier than others, the adjustment is made to compensate for speed vs. weight. I'm not exactly sure on your model...but there should be a small (very small) valve with a 'T' or roll pin handle to adjust the rate of fall. This is usually, on many Japanese tractors, near or under the seat. Same with the hydraulic implement & 3PH lock, should be between your legs as your feet sit on the operator platform. Pretty sure your tractor is equipped with both, but I'm not sure where they're located on your Mitsubishi.
BEWARE...IF YOU OPEN THAT VALVE IT WILL DROP WHATEVER IS SUSPENDED ON YOUR THREE POINT HITCH...Man, I mean this thing will come crashing down so please be careful.
Mark
The adjusting knob is just under where the seat is supposed to be, mounted right on the front of the clyinder.
I pulled the knob, and the front of the cylinder off, and cleaned it up a little..couldnt find a problem, so I put it back together, and it worked fine.. :fing32:
If I turn it OUT, it slams the 3 point down, turn it in, and it barely creeps down.
Now, If I could just figure out what size belt goes on the mower. :fing20:
The adjusting knob is just under where the seat is supposed to be, mounted right on the front of the clyinder.
I pulled the knob, and the front of the cylinder off, and cleaned it up a little..couldnt find a problem, so I put it back together, and it worked fine.. :fing32:
If I turn it OUT, it slams the 3 point down, turn it in, and it barely creeps down.
Now, If I could just figure out what size belt goes on the mower. :fing20:
Are you sure the zeener diode on the reostat isn't stuck causing the hydrailc muddflap lifters to stick?
The belt size, just get a couple of the fan belt repair kits, and be done with it?
glenn27
09-28-2006, 07:15 AM
The adjusting knob is just under where the seat is supposed to be, mounted right on the front of the clyinder.
I pulled the knob, and the front of the cylinder off, and cleaned it up a little..couldnt find a problem, so I put it back together, and it worked fine.. :fing32:
If I turn it OUT, it slams the 3 point down, turn it in, and it barely creeps down.
Now, If I could just figure out what size belt goes on the mower. :fing20:
Sounds like you got it figured out, Red---probebly as you unscrew, naturally--it increases the hyd. flow...Screw in--decrease flow, etc.
I bet that is an interesting little tractor---I'd love to run across something like that...I know where two little Yanmar's are sitting, but the man is hardly ever there... :banghead3
mark777
09-28-2006, 09:47 AM
......---probebly as you unscrew, naturally--it increases the hyd. flow...Screw in--decrease flow, etc.
:banghead3
LOL.... Yeah, that's what I was trying to say. Just used way too many words :).
Mark
mark777
09-28-2006, 09:51 AM
Are you sure the zeener diode on the reostat isn't stuck causing the hydrailc muddflap lifters to stick?
The belt size, just get a couple of the fan belt repair kits, and be done with it?
Interesting first post. Are you an owner or familiar with Mitsubishi tractors?? If so, can always use helpful suggestions and opinions here at MTF.
Mark
Mickey
09-28-2006, 10:44 AM
You're not serious are you Mark? I know Yogi wasn't.
RED-85-Z51
09-28-2006, 10:50 AM
You're not serious are you Mark? I know Yogi wasn't.
I knew that yogi wasnt serious...Im just wondering why he posted what he did.
And yeah, that 3 point will sure enough slam down if that knob is turned out! If you turn it in, you can hardly force it down. And it only turns like 1/3 turn, lock to lock.
mark777
09-28-2006, 12:26 PM
You're not serious are you Mark? I know Yogi wasn't.
NO. ROF I was not serious!
NO. ROF I was not serious!
I liked Yogi's post.. :sidelaugh
RED-85-Z51
09-28-2006, 01:10 PM
Anyone got an insight on how to remove the Haban belly mower?
Well, some of it was in jest, some of it was helpful. Think for minute, use the fanbelt repair kits and link them together to get the overall length then measure the width of the pulley fo the thikness of belt needed. I like to make people think a bit sometimes, give them enough to get started, then they can learn something themselves. If we have to go around holding hands all the time nobody wins do they?
The deck mower should have six pins holding it in place, two in front, two twoards the back and two in the center. The two in the center raise and lower the deck. Raise the deck, lower the gauge wheels as low as they will go, you should be able to turn and lock them sideways, adjust the cut height on the khydralics to the lowest position drop the deck on the ground, pull the pins, raise the hydraulics back up to get them out of youre way, and roll the deck out one side or the other.
Helpful enough?
Well, some of it was in jest, some of it was helpful. Think for minute, use the fanbelt repair kits and link them together to get the overall length then measure the width of the pulley fo the thikness of belt needed. I like to make people think a bit sometimes, give them enough to get started, then they can learn something themselves. If we have to go around holding hands all the time nobody wins do they?
The deck mower should have six pins holding it in place, two in front, two twoards the back and two in the center. The two in the center raise and lower the deck. Raise the deck, lower the gauge wheels as low as they will go, you should be able to turn and lock them sideways, adjust the cut height on the khydralics to the lowest position drop the deck on the ground, pull the pins, raise the hydraulics back up to get them out of youre way, and roll the deck out one side or the other.
Helpful enough?
WOW maybe you can go work for RED.He needs someone to help with all his projects.Seems junk follows him home.
RED-85-Z51
09-28-2006, 03:32 PM
Well, some of it was in jest, some of it was helpful. Think for minute, use the fanbelt repair kits and link them together to get the overall length then measure the width of the pulley fo the thikness of belt needed. I like to make people think a bit sometimes, give them enough to get started, then they can learn something themselves. If we have to go around holding hands all the time nobody wins do they?
The deck mower should have six pins holding it in place, two in front, two twoards the back and two in the center. The two in the center raise and lower the deck. Raise the deck, lower the gauge wheels as low as they will go, you should be able to turn and lock them sideways, adjust the cut height on the khydralics to the lowest position drop the deck on the ground, pull the pins, raise the hydraulics back up to get them out of youre way, and roll the deck out one side or the other.
Helpful enough?
I just came in from getting it off...it wasnt like that at all.
I dropped the lift down, and pulled the pins out the back of the upper 3 pt lift arms...then I had to remove BOTH rear tires to get the hinge off the lower 3 pt arm mounts. Then I had to reverse the wheels to the WIDE position..keep in mind they are filled with fluid, and quite weighty.
Then I unbolted the front mounts of the Draft plate from the mule drive, and unbolted theDraft plate from the front of the deck. Then I removed the mid pins from the deck...Then I had to roll the tractor BACK to release the sleeve from the drawbar. Then I jacked the bac kof the tractor up in the air, and used the JD 316 to pull the deck out.
Torqued all the lugs back down, and removed the deck brake actuating arm...backed it up to the disc, and next, Im going to mount it up, and try it out.
6 mount points...haha, on the 48" on the JD yes, but not the Haban. :tsk:
RED-85-Z51
09-28-2006, 03:33 PM
WOW maybe you can go work for RED.He needs someone to help with all his projects.Seems junk follows him home.
"Junk"
I dont have any "junk". If it dont work, and it aint gonna work, I sell it, or take it to the dump.
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