Removing valve guides in a 2N engine

[msloane]

I am overhauling the engine on my 1946 2N because the rings are broken, the pistons worn, and the liners oval. Someone replaced the steel liners many years ago with cast .090" liners, and I cannot get them out, even with my sleeve puller. So I decided to remove the engine, crankshaft, camshaft, etc. and work from below (or take it to a machine shop). But I cannot get 3 of the old style valve guides out without damaging the valves (which are in good shape). According to the (three different) service manuals I have, there were at one time special tools used for removing these split guides (the same ones as used on early Ford flathead V-8s), but I have been unable to locate anything. I could simply use brute force and jack the whole assembly out, but that would probably destroy the valves, which appear to be in good shape. My next plan is to buy an inexpensive heavy pry bar and grind a slot in it to fit around the valve stem. But, before I do that, I was wondering if anyone had a similar problem and solved it.

Thanks,

Mike

[Ingersoll444]

I just got done fighting with them on my 8N, and I went the forse way. Valves, and guides are cheap, I would just replace all of it. [I am]

[gwill]

I am overhauling the engine on my 1946 2N because the rings are broken, the pistons worn, and the liners oval. Someone replaced the steel liners many years ago with cast .090" liners, and I cannot get them out, even with my sleeve puller. So I decided to remove the engine, crankshaft, camshaft, etc. and work from below (or take it to a machine shop). But I cannot get 3 of the old style valve guides out without damaging the valves (which are in good shape). According to the (three different) service manuals I have, there were at one time special tools used for removing these split guides (the same ones as used on early Ford flathead V-8s), but I have been unable to locate anything. I could simply use brute force and jack the whole assembly out, but that would probably destroy the valves, which appear to be in good shape. My next plan is to buy an inexpensive heavy pry bar and grind a slot in it to fit around the valve stem. But, before I do that, I was wondering if anyone had a similar problem and solved it.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,

When I bought my '46 at auction 15 years ago, it had been recently rebuilt from stem to stern. I had checked the day before and knew it was only running on 3 but the auctioneer never started it the day of the sale. Fearing the worst, I bid anyway. When I checked it out I found that one of the horseshoe clips wasn't in place and the guide had jumped out. I had to invest something like $.28 in a new clip and it's been fine ever since... it's my most used of my 3 Fords.

What I'm having trouble with is why it would be a problem to get the guides out if the clips are removed? They should just pop right out.

George Willer

[msloane]

Removing the "keepers", George, is just the first job, and they certainly don't "fall" out. A couple of them came out with the use of some "gentle pursuasion", but the others are still fighting. But even when the keepers are pulled, the exhaust valve guides are held in by a combination of dirt, carbon, and crud. The intake valve guides, on the other hand, did indeed just fall out. So I expect that the one you had come loose was an intake valve, not exhaust.

Mike

[Ingersoll444]

Removing the "keepers", George, is just the first job, and they certainly don't "fall" out. A couple of them came out with the use of some "gentle pursuasion", but the others are still fighting. But even when the keepers are pulled, the exhaust valve guides are held in by a combination of dirt, carbon, and crud. The intake valve guides, on the other hand, did indeed just fall out. So I expect that the one you had come loose was an intake valve, not exhaust.

Mike

I had the smae problem. Most of mine were stuck fast. I ended up using a screwdriver, and reaching through the spring with it, and hitting the gude. Seems most places sell the guide/valve/spring all together, and they seem pretty cheap. Think most people go with the one peice gide wile they are at it, and in taht case you have to change the other parts anyway.

[msloane]

Yes, I realize that I can simply manhandle the guides out and discard them, replacing the entire valve train with the newer once piece guides and "headless" valves. I just felt that, since the valves are in relatively good shape, that I would try to save and re-use them. It is about $100+ to replace the valves, guides, and springs. It's not like this is a work tractor - it is just a little 2N that will probably never do anything more than pull a trailer or gang mower and maybe be driven in the local town parade. It is a little bit unique in that it has both a Howard two speed rear and a Sherman two speed auxiliary transmission. But I very much appreciate the input from everyone!

Image was taken after initial restoration but before engine tear-down.

Mike