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Maybar
07-07-2006, 10:03 AM
Would any of you knowledgeable people know of any methods to seal aluminum so it doesn't oxidize/tarnish
after being polished?
My first thought was lacquer but any other suggestions would be appreciated. thanks, maybar

Edit: the project is a VW BUG restoration. Some small pieces in the dash and some in the engine bay area that are being considered.

Argee
07-07-2006, 10:17 AM
Great question...I have the same thing happening to my aluminum diamond plate tool box on my truck..(toolbox is about 3 years old)

I just pulled off the emblems that were on the side and its clean under them.

What did you use to clean the rest of the box with?

cadurning
07-07-2006, 10:24 AM
Clear annodize if the part is small enough. Too costly for a tool box

MowHoward2210
07-07-2006, 10:28 AM
Try using toilet bowl cleaner on them. May not prevent the oxidation, but it really shines up. I had an acquaintance with a flatbed truck with a lot of aluminum diamond plate on it. And that is what he used. Note that he sold the truck awhile back, so I don't know the long term effects.

JDFANATIC
07-07-2006, 10:48 AM
I agree with the annodizing suggestion. Might cost a few bucks for 1 piece, but it might be worth it.

systech1
07-07-2006, 12:38 PM
I have used DIAMOND CLEAR on aluminum wheels, valve covers and interiro trim before and it workrd well. It did yellow a bit on the valve covers where oil got on it.
Available in satin http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=619&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=410&iSubCat=411&iProductID=619
and clear http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=415&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=410&iSubCat=411&iProductID=415

Greg
07-07-2006, 12:44 PM
Curt,

What kind of bowl cleaner do you suggest...? Spray? Powder? The engine block and generator sides of my gensets are getting white spots on them from sitting outside.

Uncle Greg

bontai Joe
07-07-2006, 02:02 PM
I can see drain cleaner (lye) being used to remove oxidation, because it will also remove aluminum if you are not careful. But wouldn't a good car wax also protect against future problems?

MowHoward2210
07-07-2006, 05:43 PM
Curt,

What kind of bowl cleaner do you suggest...? Spray? Powder? The engine block and generator sides of my gensets are getting white spots on them from sitting outside.

Uncle Greg

All's I was told was he used toilet bowl cleaner. Kind of wondering now what the long term effects of that were.

Dennis OH
07-07-2006, 06:10 PM
you dont want to use lacquer it is not a very durable finsh just easy to spray and repair. if this is going to be in the weather at all you should use a two part poly like they do on the vehicles. to get it to adhere you might have to try a blonde shellac i dont think the clear would bond to the aluminum by it self

HydroHarold
07-07-2006, 07:24 PM
A good car wax is zactly what I used on my '50s and '60s motorcycle engines. Back then we Gunked 'em and then rinsed real good, dryed completely and wax immediately. If you keep air off it it won't corrode until the wax wears off. Don't know how engine heat in a closed engine compartment will affect it, bike engines aren't enclosed.

Fusion1970
07-09-2006, 01:37 PM
Maybar- Funny you should ask. I have been going through this for awhile now. I have tried a couple different types of automotive type clear coat from a can, but of course you have to scuff the surface up to get the paint to adhere. And even then, it was only tempoary at best.

I am in the process of polishing up alot of car parts such as the center section of a steering rack, brake lines, vacuum advance for the distributor, radius rods, etc., and up until a couple weeks ago just accepted the fact that I would have to polish them up again from time to time.

I happened upon a product from POR-15 that claims it is for fully polished metals, aluminum, etc., and was originally brought out to refurbish old aluminum wheels with the yellowing and flaking clear coat. I figured if it was tough enough to use on wheels, it's gotta be good enough for other things as well. Before trying it, I posted a question on a car forum I go to, and heard nothing but positive things about it so I decided to give it a try. Heres a link to check out if you want.

http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/PRIMERPAINTSCOATINGS/CLEARCOATS/GLISTENPC/tabid/133/Default.aspx

Anyway, it's called Glisten PC. Its a two part epoxy resin type paint. You polish whatever it is your wanting to clear, then spray a solution on it and let it set a couple minutes before cleaning it off. It goes on kind of like alcohol, and dries quickly- not affecting the polished part at all. It doesnt etch it at all, but apparently just primes the metal so it will adhere. Then you apply the first coat with a spray gun, paint brush, or foam brush.

The polishing, prep, mixing, etc. take a little while, but it should be the last time you mess with it for quite some time.

There is also some stuff called "Zoop-Seal" which is some kind of coating you simply rub on. The shine will last up to two years supposedly. I have never used it or heard anything about how well it woks so I can't say from experience.

Hope this helps,
Greg

Hutch001b
07-09-2006, 06:35 PM
I haven't personally used this product but I have heard good things about it from guys who use it on their aluminum boats. www.sharkhide.com

Drawbar
07-13-2006, 09:55 AM
Try using WD-40. It might not work in all situations, but I use it on my snowmobiles. before I store my sled for the summer, and maybe a time or two during the summer as well, I take a spray bottle and just spray a mist over anything aluminum. The WD-40 keeps stuff from oxidizing and it is cheap and non-toxic.

This works well on my sled because everything is aluminum. It would work great on toolboxes and that stuff too, but if it is out in the weather, you might have to apply the WD-40 more often as rain will eventually wash the WD-40 out.

Try it my fellow Mytractor forum friends. It works. My 2005 sled just gleams now and looks brand new.

ribertgropius
04-25-2007, 09:58 AM
Sounds like you are getting the gamut of suggestions; guess it depends on what your application is and how durable you want it to be! I know that for shop tools I use a product called Boeshield, developed for protecting aluminum on airplanes, that is not a wax, but dries to leave a wax-like finish on the material; I think of it sort of as a non-silicone based WD-40 kind of product that seals and lubricates, but dries. Sprays on, can be left to dry or wiped off depending on how thick a coat you want.

ribertgropius
04-25-2007, 09:59 AM
The toilet bowl cleaner suggestion is intriguing; I have an older shopsmith aluminum table saw table that I would love to see cleaned up. I will try it and get back with a posting to see how it works.

Andy
04-25-2007, 10:52 AM
If you want to polish up aluminum that is not anodized there is a product called Maas polish it comes in a toothpaste type tube and it works great on alumiinum and stainless steel. I think that it is a better product than Never Dull.

mark777
04-25-2007, 03:16 PM
Great and interesting thread.

I have tried some of the many suggestions and have found one that works for me. PPG has had this stuff on the market for years...It's called 1900 clear bonding agent, and originally intended for "Flipping Blends" into BC/CC adjacent panels during repaint-repair procedures in body shops.

The crystal clear chemical is designed to do two things only: Stick to whatever you put it on - and stick to whatever is put on top of it. It is sandwiched in between the aluminum (or any other metal/plastic etc.) and then a 2 part epoxy clear top coat.

We did a set of large Centerline Wheels for a weekend off-roader. He was well into his second season before any visible signs of ware....and we figured it would only last 2 or 3 months tops. I have done several exterior pieces since then with excellent results. I've also tried Zoop-Seal...good stuff but not near as durable or long lasting as the PPG1900 bonding agent.

rebar
09-29-2009, 08:00 AM
Hi.. New here..

I'm interested in the ppg 1900 clear bonding agent you mentioned Mark but I cant find it.

Is it still available or does it have a new name?

Thanks

Tractor-Holic
09-29-2009, 11:25 AM
We used aluminum mag wheel cleaner to clean up corroded aftermarket intake manifolds and valve covers,and it worked pretty well to get the white crud off that forms on it after exposure to moisture..WD-40 works well temporarily to keep it from returning quickly,but you need to reapply it faithfully ,it does evaporate or wash off after awhile..

Some of my aluminum blocked engines are getting a crusty white growth of the cooling fins,and there are slowly eroding away..aint much you can put on a hot surface like that and have it last long,or not block the heat transfer--engine paint is about all you can use on that..

CraftHorse
09-29-2009, 04:03 PM
For the tool box, I would just sand it and paint to match the color of your truck. You could also paint it a color to compliment your truck if you wanted.

mark777
09-29-2009, 07:51 PM
Hi.. New here..

I'm interested in the ppg 1900 clear bonding agent you mentioned Mark but I cant find it.

Is it still available or does it have a new name?

Thanks

It's been well over a year since I bought any....and I still have nearly a gallon extra. It may be called PPG DSX 1900 bonding clear (I forget sometimes :fing20: ). I'll check my paint room when I get back to the shop, and hey,

:Welcome1: ......and don't be a stranger!

heatman
09-29-2009, 09:19 PM
I haven't personally used this product but I have heard good things about it from guys who use it on their aluminum boats. www.sharkhide.com

Sharkhide is a GREAT product. I bought a new pontoon 5 years ago and applied Sharkhide when new. No oxidation at all after 5 years. Heard about this production on a pontoon forum I belong to.

It,s also very easy to apply. Clean surface with laquer thinner then apply by hand with a soft cloth. I did 2 coats with each coat taking around 1/2 hr.

Duvall
09-30-2009, 11:35 AM
I have never used it.

Many have said that it is a great product.

Zoop Seal

http://www.zoops.com/zoopseal.asp

dodge610
11-21-2009, 12:15 AM
It can be bead blasted then clear powder coating put over it and baked on should last quite a while i can quote you a price if i know what parts i am very reasonable ive done this for years we can clear it or go with color your choice.

flatfenders
11-24-2009, 08:25 AM
Glisten PC clear coat works great on the parts I have tried it on so far, its designed for going over polished metals per the directions and is gas oil resistant, and uv stable, and non yellowing, two part coating, brushes on and self levels nicely. I used it over enamel chassis paint as well and helps prevents chips and scratches.

eastonct124
11-24-2009, 10:36 AM
a coat of wax is all you can do. Or, I'd use a good polyurethane (w/hardener).
Laqcuer doesn't last.
It w takes a while exposed to elements to corrode. as long as you polish it every 6 months....it'll be fine (without wax).

nuffer460
11-29-2009, 07:01 AM
Zoop Seal is a great product.:thThumbsU Started using it on polished rims for one of my lifted pickups. It goes on like a polish. It works great on big rig aluminum parts also. The only areas that seem to need repeated application was the aluminum steps at the cab and behind the bunk to access air lines. High use areas. Don't know if it lasts two years. We strip it off and redo twice a year.
The only issue was to not over apply the product. A lite film coating then wipe off (buff) with a clean rag. Too heavy of an application created hazzing.:Stop:

John