: 1978 wheelhorse Garden way tiller
05-08-2012, 12:04 PM
customer brought in a tiller, wheel horse it has a HH60 tec I rebuilt the carb 3 years ago, now he says that while running it seems to bind (tangs) and kill the engine after jiggleing he say it will go agin for a short time then do it agin. I m fairly sure that it has a worm gear driveing the tangs and they do have play in them and I know if it was above a certain amount it would cause binding but I cant see (in my minds eye ) that its that much, I havent been able to find any breakdown of this unit does anyone have or know whre I can find this tiller parts breakdown? one thing that Im skeptical about is he has a tendency to mess with things then bring back cause it just wasnt right yet. should I go for it or send it back home for someone else to deal with? ED
05-08-2012, 02:09 PM
Gardenway = Troybilt for alot of years...
Got pics, or a model number?
If the tines are binding, could be a worn bronze tine gear, or a worn worm, or a bad rear shaft bearing...
05-10-2012, 11:51 AM
Tore into the trany yesterday and found main shaft from drive pully through tine drive is froze solid, looks like both front and rear bearing are shot, of course not much oil in it looks like almost 1 gal low no kidding cust. says was filled but you know how that go's as rust on worm gear and plug painted over , I realy need a parts break down on this and also will need to repair compression release in motor but trany is first only no. I find are castings TH-1002 and TH-1018 the trans ser no. is 321742 heres some pics
05-10-2012, 12:25 PM
Thats a Troy Bilt "HORSE" Model Tiller....not Wheel Horse.
Parts are Readily available from MTD/Troy-Bilt.
05-10-2012, 12:52 PM
Here is a breakdown of an older econo-HORSE tiller...your numbers dont cross to a known model number, was porbably on a tag that wa removed or painted over.
05-11-2012, 11:34 AM
Thanks RED, I replaced both front and rear bearingsand turns smooth , but when adding the shims I removed it froze over loading the bearings, by removeing half of then its smooth with no end play not sure if it should have x amount or not the main Q I have is that I have rebuilt hundreds of right anlge gearboxs's and as i recall all wormgears were centered over the centerline of the brass heilcal gear, this one is about one third I could move the shaft farther up , and add back the shims but then the drive end of the shaft looks like it would be out to far , now as long as the teeth on the worm gear it in full contact with brass gear I think will be ok, One thing i considered is shims might have been added some time in the past to make up for worn bearings, preloading the bearings seems about right. so you think I should go with it? Ed
05-11-2012, 01:18 PM
I dont have the old books on these dinosaurs, but I think there should be some end play on the main shaft, you dont want 0.000 end play. But you dont want it sloppy either.
The bearings will always have a thrust load on them towards the rear as they drive worm gears.
If you replaced th bearing races, make 100% sure they are seated fully...had one come apart one me one time, costed me a shaft, bronze gear, and 2 bearings...out of pocket. These tillers get expensive, fast.
While you are there, remove the wheel axel shaft and examine the seal grooves...if they are worn, go ahead and replace it, same with the tine shaft...if its not smooth, it will leak oil like a sieve.
Its not uncommon for me to rack up a bill of 350-400 dollars working on one of these things...parts are spendy, and time consuming.
05-12-2012, 01:13 AM
If you go to the Troy Bilt website, you can download a manual that will walk you through all of the bearing and seal repairs, and includes discussion (no specs) on how much play you want.
Enter HORSE as the model, and it will list all of the manuals available.
Hope this helps.
05-12-2012, 10:48 AM
Thanks RED and Mike for the help, yep allready into it for $200 and havent touched the motor yet ED