Need help with clutch/brake adjustment on my "new" SR1533. [Archive] - - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information

: Need help with clutch/brake adjustment on my "new" SR1533.

04-15-2012, 03:15 PM
Hello everyone,

I just picked up a nice looking and non-running SR1533 RER from Craigslist. I couldn't pass it up. Model is a 331518KVE. The owner said that he ran over something last year and then started vibrating real bad and now it would not run.

I was able to get it running after a good carb cleaning and performed the normal maintenance things like oil change, greased, etc, etc.

Now for the problem... the clutch/brake cable was broken in half and the clutch/brake spring was missing. At least those are the items I know that are missing! I bought a new spring and cable and got them installed. My problem is I can't seem to get the brake adjusted correctly (which attaches to the clutch cable behind the seat). I followed the adjustment procedure that I found in the owners manual. After adjusting the cable using the jam nuts the brake cable is too loose and the end of the brake cable falls out of the brake lever assembly.:banghead3 Also, it will crank up but when I release the parking brake the engine dies. I'm not exactly sure I have the end of the brake cable installed correctly on the brake lever assy. I installed the small plastic tube w/ e-clip in front of the brake lever and the tube assy. with the spring inside behind the brake lever. The opposite end of the brake cable is attached to the clutch cable via the plastic cable connector. I installed the cable connector in front of the stop which is on the clutch cable. Any suggestions? Is there some saftey switch that is killing the engine when I release parking brake? Thanks in advance for any possible solutions.

dc 3mech
04-15-2012, 08:06 PM
The mowers of around your's age are a little confusing,the series 16&18,are in one parts manual and the series 17&19in another/; They are divided into"sprung seat" and "solid seat " models,in the confusion you may have gotten the wrong parts.The "dying" at clutch engagement might well be a bad switch.

04-16-2012, 09:58 PM
A little more to the story.... the engine started dying after I started trying to adjust the brake. The clutch worked properly and I was able to drive the mower but without brakes...

04-17-2012, 09:05 AM
Sounds like a wiring/switching issue to me. If you have not done so already download the correct manual from the Snapper website. Remember the variances that dc 3mech talked about in his reply. If I remember correctly to kill an already running engine the coil's primary has to be grounded somehow. Looks like it is multimeter / switch checking time for this old Snapper.


04-21-2012, 08:37 PM
Ordered another new clutch cable and a new brake cable this week. Should be here first of next week. Maybe I was sold the wrong clutch cable.... Any one have any pics of how the brake cable attaches?

dc 3mech
04-22-2012, 02:28 PM's the illustration of the front end and cables etc, (if it loads).notice there are 2 different cables for the brake. these attach to the "clutch" cable with the coupler (#42) which slides down the "brake cable until it reaches a "ball" swaged on it(clutch cable#41),this then pulls the brake cable to tighten the "brake"against the"brake drum" part of the clutch hub.The "clutch attachment"to the pedal is shown(for some models),as well as the "spacers" which slide down the cable,and can be placed in front of the attachment on the pedal to "tighten" the clutch cable.These "attachments,are usually a hole,which the "stop" can be inserted through,and then moved to a slot which positions it to a "solid"place to pull against.

dc 3mech
04-22-2012, 02:43 PM'll try again,This shows some of the rear part,of the mower,including a view of the brake arm,about as good as Snapper shows.The brake cables shown in the previous view,have adjustment nuts that go on both sides of a bracket,and provide some adjustment,when they are fully adjusted,and no brake,you might have too long a brake cable.Also,when I changed mine,the cable Snapper sent had a plastic end,with no real snap ring groove as shown on some illustrations,and the cable kept falling through the slot in the brake arm.So I had to adjust the brake cable to keep a little tension on the brake arm spring,but not enough to make the brake rub.If you take the brake arm off,be sure you remember how the spring goes,or take a photo,is tough,unless you know exactly.

04-23-2012, 10:25 PM
Thanks for the pics and explanation DC! I got my new brake cable in the mail today and I believe I have found my problem. The plastic housing that contains the spring tapers down a smaller diameter section and is all one piece. On my old cable the smaller diameter section is broken away from the larger plastic section with the spring. I believe this is why the cable falls out of the bracket and I have no brakes! :trink39: Once my new clutch cable arrives I'll install both cables and post an update.