Tractor Weight

[Carl]

I mentioned in an earlier thread that I needed weight on the back of the TC24da to counter balance the loader. Yesterday I decided to move a pile of dirt that was in the wrong place in the back yard. Started to use the loader, and noticed that the as soon as the loader hooked something in the pile that the rear wheel on that side would lift off the ground. I would lower the loader and back out of the pile with a lighter load. A couple of times the tractor wanted to tip on unlevel ground.

After an afternoon of small loads low and slow, and the rear tires fighting each other to see which one would leave the ground. I decided it was time to do something.

Have a 3 point disk that weighs somewhere between 250 and 300 pounds, but it would stick out quite a ways behind the tractor and to the sides. A last choick. Called the dealer and they would fill them with Rim guard, but I would have to take the wheels to them. I really didn't want to wrestle 300 pound wheels off the truck, and back onto the tractor. The dealer has a 4' box blade for $300, which I am going to look at.

Then I thought of the bucket for the FEL on the old MTD. 3' wide, 14" deep, and about 14" high. Measured it and the spacing I could get the 3 pt drawbar arms. Found that I could spread them to the 31" that I needed for the bucket. Bolted it on the 3 pt arms, and attached the top link. Then put in 330 # of concrete patio blocks. Works like a charm. I changed my avitar to a picture of the loader I took the bucket from.

Now I don't even need 4WD to fill the loader. But if I do get a really full bucket it could still use another 100 # of weight. The rear wheels will still slip when backing up and turning at the same time. But at least the wheels stayed on the ground. I think that I will have the Rim Guard put in the tires. It will cost about $170. They do not make wheel weights for the turf tires.

[MowHoward2210]

I'd go with the Rim Guard as it will make weight bias a lot safer. Also it is a good practice to keep the tractor in 4WD when using the loader at all times as you will get much better control in steering, and more importantly, braking.

[Carl]

This Is a test for picture posting. Per Greg's instructions, and Durwood's link posting for the picture editing program.

Mow, I will probably get the Rim Guard for the tire filling. I try not using the 4WD unless I need it for traction, but I suppose that it is designed for full time operation. Mainly I used the 2WD as an indicator for the weight in the bucket. If the tires started to slip, I would put it in 4WD, and drive it with the bucket really low, and drive it slower. Not the safest solution, but the bucket wouldn't have far to drop if I need to drop it. Only had to do that once and that was before I added the weight to the back.

[draddogs]

Carl another way to make a weight for the rear is to use a 50 gal drum and cut slots for a 3 point draw bar and slid it thru the drum and fill w/ cement.. Lots of weight between the rear tires and no riding around on the front wheels.

[Carl]

Draddog, Let me see if I have the picture right?

Cut slots in the drum and slide a 3pt drawbar through them. You mean the bar with all the holes in it that you can hook impliments to?

You must mean to mount the drum standing up? Seems that a 55 gallon drum would be too wide in height to fit between my arms. Which means that you would have to hook the top link to it too. That would eliminate one of my fears. My brother had a concrete barrel mounted on his 12 hp Kubota. Unfortunately his was free to swing. He hit something with his front mount grader blade, and it broke his tractor in half when the concrete block swung against the back of the tractor.

55 gallons would be about 1000 pounds. I think that mine needs about 400 to 600. But, yes, concrete is a viable option. I know you mentioned the barrel because it is easy. Thank you.

[slipshod]

Carl,
You can also go to your dealer and get a pair of pins that are threaded and screw them into two holes you put in your drum. If you do not need all the weight that a 55 gal. drum can provide cut it down to 2/3, and yes you should mount a bracket for the third leg to keep it from flipping. Another option is use rocks to fill it with and control your weight that way.
Slipshod

[Archdean]

The main thing Carl is always use some ballast weight equel to or close to what you are picking up with a front end loader !!

I have a ballast box but find a implement of your need and choice is generally as effective!!

Box blade with additional weight or my handy dandy 3 point hitch thingy with some Yep you guessed guys (John Deere bolt on wheel weights) works about as good as anything I have come up with so far!!

Handy and can still do other things with it plus it is close to the rear of the tractor , better than hauling around my rototiller /back hoe /box blade if I don't need them!!
http://www.greencis.net/~custer/ballast.jpg

[Stumpy!!]

Fill them yourself!!! It is not that hard to do. I have Rim Guard in the tires of my 2N with loader. I had the dealer fill them the first time, was close to $200.00!!!! I got a flat in a field one day and because I am frugal(cheap) I decided to fix the flat and fill the tire myself.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v142/stumpy462n/flat.jpg

STINKY!!! I was able to air up the tire and use the water adapter and a short hoe collect most of the Rim Guard in a 55 gal blue plactic drum. After a bunch of cleanup work I patched the tube and remounted the tire.

I used a double tap bushing in the drum with my air comp. and a regulator I aired up the drum and pushed the Rim Guard back into the tire. The reg. keeps me from over inflating anything. I used 20 PSI as my max press. This worked well for me.

My next job will be to take the 11.2 x 28s off of my 2N and put them on my 8N. The 12.4 x 28 will hold more ballast for the loader and the 11.2s will give me full low range advantage on the Sherman equipped 8N. I am going to get my extra ballast loaded into the drum while it is in the back of my pickup. I'll load ir right out of the back of the truck.

If you like I can post pics of the process when I do it

Don't be afraid of saving a couple of $$, it ain't rocket science :fing32:

[thesmartfarmer]

We used the 'Ol 55 gallon drum filled full of concrete and scrap metal on the 3-point to keep ours on the ground.

[Carl]

This is what I used to keep the back wheels on the ground.

I sized the pics at 4" X 2.67 JPG said about 20kb per pic.

[slipshod]

Carl
I bet that keeps the wheels on the ground. The only concern I have with the set-up is be careful that you don't lose any of the weight as you go up hills or hit bumps. Maybe you could secure it with a bit of wire or rope or something.

[Carl]

Slipshod,
It got the job done for me. It was only temporary, because I just wanted to get the dirt pile moved. The 55 gallon drum sounds good. I am figuring out how much weight to put in the drum. Concrete is about 20# per gallon. NH recommends about 200# wheel weights and 450 on 3pt. With the clause that should add enough weight for satisfactory operation.

Looked at 4WD and the only recomendation is that it can be full time in low range, and extra wear and tear in high range and worse fuel efficiency. So can get by with 4WD for field work like plowing. But still like the idea to use 2WD for most field work, which means loading the tires. So will probably end up loading the tires for about 400# with the terf tires and also have about 400# on the drawbar.

[Carl]

Greg,
Sorry for giving your credit to Durwood for the picture editing program link.
Sorry to you Durwood for misapplying the credit.

[Carl]

NH doesn't have wheel weights for the Turf tires. So I took measurements and found some Ford weights that would fit. They seem to be about 100 pounds per wheel. Then I took the plunge and bought a KingKutter 48" box blade to enhance the ballast. It works!