Rusted pins . . . grrr

[mr67gp]

I am slowly rebuilding all the cylinders on the FEL and BH on my JD 955. The loader is all done as of last weekend. I started on the swing cylinders for my 7 BH. Left side went in and out OK. Right side is going to be a b***h. The inner pin that holds the "stationary" side to the frame of the BH is frozen in the bore of the cylinder end. I knew this was going to be a problem, because since I brought the machine home I could never get grease into that fitting. I had hoped it was just a frozen fitting, but no. I am soaking it in PB Blaster right now. I want to avoid heating the cylinder base to avoid distortion. If all else fails I'll have to bend the frame ears to clear the ends of the pin so I can get it out onto the bench.

Can those pins be cut with a bi-metal blade and sawzall?

Just venting. Sorry.

Jim K in PA

[mr67gp]

Just to close the loop, I got the rusted pin out and the cylinder rebuilt. PB Blaster to the rescue. It took a couple of days of soaking, and a "persuader" upgrade to the 3lb lump hammer. I had to use a big bolt as a drift to hit the pin, and I had to support the frame below to keep the hits from beign absorbed. What fun! :00000060:

Jim K in PA

[jodyand]

Thats great :fing32: I know theres noting worst then stuck rusted bolts or pins. I have found to just give it time for the kroil or PB blaster to work. I have let the stuff set for up to a week just go everyday and give it a spray. And it dont take much force for it to come lose.

[chipmaker]

Not that it matters now since you got the pin out, but yes you can cut them with a sawzall on low speed with a bimetal blade. May take a few blades but its doable. I used to rebush and repin a lot of the equipment a local grout and excavating contractor has up the road from me, and grease or no grease some of those pins were a real bugger bear to get out even with a home brew adapter to use a 10 ton porta power on. The bushings were a bigger problem though as I had to cut the old ones out of the booms and buckets etc and reweld in new ones. I usually used a drill called a slug buster with a magnetic mount that helped make it a lot easier, but it was still a bear.....I have since quite doing it as its too much hassle.......They would drop off a dozer or trackhoe on a Friday and want it on a Monday.........

What I find even better and faster working than PB Blaster, is the flourescent yellow dye penetrant used for checking for cracks etc in welds and parts etc, its available in any welding supply store, and does the job pretty darn quick. Bout $5.00 a spray can.