Epoxy Paint or Powdercoat?

[LPBOLENS]

I have several set of Bolens tractor rims that I am cleaning up for mounting new tires. Once I have them sandblasted to remove the decades of rust and old paint, what should I recoat them with? As I see it, my choices are limited to epoxy paint or powdercoating. Anyone got opinions to share on this topic?:1221:

[Ingersoll444]

Powdercoating is nice, but if you get a chip its tough to repair. You have to use paint. But it is tough. Do you have your own system? or do you need to send them out? If your footing the bill, and have to send them out, I would say paint them, and save the money.

[mark777]

LP, I agree with Paul.

I have had parts for customers sublet to be powdercoated. Although the pieces were professionally done and achieved a better than show room quality with excellent depth and reflectivity - it was more than expensive:

*The parts have no substrate (primer) and if, or when they chip, they are exposed to the elements - corrosion, oxidation.
*There is no repair process for powder coating.
*The pieces to be powder coated MUST be perfect, no scars, scratches, porosity or the slightest blemish as the coated pieces magnify those problem areas and adhesion may be suspect.
*Typical fillers such as lead, glazing putty or polyester fillers cannot be used as the pre-bake and baking process burns them out completely.
*Only high-line companies achieve the desired results...The guy that does patio furniture will not meet your expectations.

Pieces such as Artwork or Carshow projects where restorations are displayed and never again intended to be used are absolutely beautiful.

IMHO you can achieve the same results with epoxy based primers, urethane paints and clear coating. Lots of wetsanding with ulta-fine abrasives and polishing compounds will duplicate the mirror like finishes...just depends on how much time and how far one is willing to go.

Mark

[LPBOLENS]

I was kind of expecting the response that you guys have given. I do have a local "House of Color" that has been doing powdercoating for years, so I expect that he knows what he is doing.

The durability issue was what I was concerned about, especially when I considered that I was thinking about coating rims for a "working" tractor. I want it to look nice, but I don't believe in trailer queens. TSC is carrying the Valspar line of tractor paints, and you can add a hardener to that, or I might go all the way to a standard two-part epoxy.

Doug

[draddogs]

I used base coat and clear coat on the 123 cc of mine w/ very easy paint repair capabilities.

[Mickey]

While powdercoating is nice, I don't believe there is any magic in the process. I was involved with a critical part used inside a patient in the O.R. The part was SST and was powdercoated with Nylon, a heavy coat. Chipping/pealing was always an issue and a chip rendered a part useless. Could never get the bond strength that was needed.

IMO a catalyzed paint should be able to more than do the job.

[Mrwiggles2]

Powder coating is very strong, which makes it great for outdoor items. As was said, once it chips, their isn't anyting to protect from corrosion. The paints today are so superior to years ago, it makes better sense to spray it yourself. You can match exactly the color you want, apply clear coats, rub out orange peel and really make it what you want. I'd opt for spraying over PC.

[wolfe1]

90% of any coating success is surface prep. The other 10% is applicator skill. Sherwin Williams has several industrial coatings that are excellent- talk to local rep - and have him make suggestions

[Mickey]

Right on Wolfe. In the comments on powdercoating one needs to remember this is a process and NOT a material. As I mentioned in a prior post, I was involved with a part we powder coated with Nylon, a plastic and not a paint. Prep and application can either make or break a particular application.

[Dan Lovell]

I see that Sears is selling a do it yourself powder coat gun. What they don't tell you is you need an oven and a 12 volt battery. No big deal with the battery but the oven is something else. It's all right if the parts are small, but if you want to put something like a fender in there you're **** out of luck. Plus MaMa not going to be able to cook the Bird in there anymore. Stick with the paint.

Dan

[Mrwiggles2]

Yep- an electric oven too.

[Bountyhunter]

Can you get as good of results for powder coat using heat lamps inside an enclosure like a paint booth?

Bountyhunter

[Dutch-NJ]

The durability issue was what I was concerned about, especially when I considered that I was thinking about coating rims for a "working" tractor. I want it to look nice, but I don't believe in trailer queens.
Considering wheels are subject to a harse environment on a working tractor, there are only two ways to go IMO.
1) Basic paint that can be touched up or redone anytime
2) Chrome plating

[nissan]

infra-red lamps can be used but it can be hard to control the heat,powder coating can discolor an blister if it gets to hot. they make epoxy powders an primer powders. we are doing 200,000 harley-davidson parts an they have their pro's & cons too.

[Fusion1970]

This is just my opinion, but I would go with the paint also. Check out www.por15.com. Por-15 is supposed to be about as durable as powdercoating, but it's a one-part paint (no mixing), and can be touched up easily with a brush or spray gun. It is a major rust inhibitor and can be applied over rusted metal. It is also UV sensitive, so on tractor wheels, youd want to use a topcoat over it. The Por-15 provides the rust and chip protection, and the topcoat seals the deal. The paint comes in pint, quart, and gallon sized cans. Also, if you are stuck on a two part paint, look at the Hardnose paints. Por-15 is also the only source of a clear coat that will bond to polished aluminum which to me is pretty impressive.

I have not personally used them, but have read many posts about them and have heard nothing but great things. Its pretty much the choice from what I have seen with the street rod / kit car crowd.

Good luck,
Greg

[Ingersoll444]

Mental note. If you use por15 wear gloves!!!! It does NOT come off of skin EVER. Good stuff though.